MURALS AT THE FOWLER MUSEUM, UCLA, Los Angeles, California

Close-up of mural created by UCLA students for Fowler Museum, Los Angeles, CA.

On a recent visit to the Fowler Museum on the UCLA campus, I was struck by the murals lining the walls surrounding the center atrium. Printed with colorful, overlapping images that repeated across the surface, they invited me to look closer. There are six of them—two with enlarged versions of the individual images, and four with the images much smaller, printed in rows and covering the entire surface of the canvas. Standing far away, each mural looks like a giant vertical carpet, filling the available space. Close-up the effect is almost three-dimensional, like an optical illusion, the designs shimmering in the air.

According to the information panel about the murals, they were created by UCLA students working with Brazilian artists and activists Monica Nador and Bruno Oliviera of the Jardim Miriam Arte Clube (JAMAC) in Sao Paolo.  (JAMAC fosters collaboration between artists, local residents, and activists to create murals, prints, and public interventions that reflect community narratives and struggles.) Through a series of workshops, conversations led to a design process, followed by stencil making, and finally a discussion-based construction of patterns that reflected the complex interactions between the community and the artist.

In the following photographs you can appreciate the complexity of the designs and the richness of the patterns and colors.  But to get the full impact you have to see them in person.

To find out about the meaning of the images and the source of their inspiration you can listen to interviews with the students HERE.. 

The Fowler Museum is open Wednesday 12-8 pm, and Thursday through Sunday 12-5 pm. Admission is always free.

SCOTLAND, Part 2: THE HIGHLANDS AND EDINBURGH, Guest Post by Steve Scheaffer and Karen Neely

Scottish Highlands.

In October 2025 my brother Steve and his wife Karen visited Scotland, touring the Highlands and also visiting Glasgow and Edinburgh.

“We found Scotland a very pretty country and the people were very kind. The biggest drawback was that there were so many tour groups as well as individual tourists. As we headed into the highlands a big storm, Amy, blew in, making a lot of our outdoor activities uncomfortable.  Our tour leader did a good job but you can't change the weather!”

Despite the raindrops, Steve and Karen managed to take a lot of terrific photos. They have graciously shared a selection of them with The Intrepid Tourist. (This is Part 2 of their report.)

The Scottish Crannog Centre. Reconstruction of Iron Age loch-dwellings known as "crannogs".

Thatched roof. 

Castle ruins.

Monument to the Battle of Culloden, 1746. The graves of the gallant highlanders who fought for Prince Charlie are here.

Ancient standing stone.

Aerial view of Edinburgh.

The Writers Museum, Edinburgh..

Fresh vegetables and ice cream.

SCOTLAND, Part 1: GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS, Guest Post by Steve Scheaffer and Karen Neely

Scottish Highlands.

In October 2025 my brother Steve and his wife Karen visited Scotland, touring the Highlands and also visiting Glasgow and Edinburgh.

“We found Scotland a very pretty country and the people were very kind. The biggest drawback was that there  were so many tour groups as well as individual tourists. As we headed into the highlands a big storm, Amy, blew in, making a lot of our outdoor activities uncomfortable.  Our tour leader did a good job but you can't change the weather!”

Despite the raindrops, Steve and Karen managed to take a lot of excellent photos. They have graciously shared them with The Intrepid Tourist. (Part 2 will post next week.)

Gothic tower of Glasgow University.

Mural, Glasgow.

Another one of many public murals, Glasgow.

Old Packhorse bridge, Carrbridge, Scotland.

Celtic Cross.

Herding sheep.

Scottish longhorn cattle--on a rare sunny day.

Large copper pot used for distilling spirits at a whisky distillery. 

Bag piper.

Part 2 of Steve and Karen's trip to Scotland will post next week.

A PERSONAL GUIDE TO TUCSON, ARIZONA, Part 2: Guest Post by Paul Justison

 

Goddess of Agave, painted by Rock "Cyfi" Martinez, 2017, Tucson, AZ 

With many thanks to my friend Paul Justison for his excellent guide to the city of Tucson, posted here in two parts--Part 1, last week and Part 2, this week. Paul is the author of the well received novel Lost and Found in the 60s (Unsolicited Press, 2022.)

What to see — Science and technology 

During the cold war, Tucson was a one of the main launching pads for nuclear attacks on the Soviet Union. Davis-Monthan Air base was adjacent to the city and housed nuclear armed B-52 bombers. It was also surrounded by 18 silos that held nuclear armed missiles. They are all decommissioned now. One of them is now a museum, and even I, an antiwar peacenik, found the tour fascinating. Home | Titan Missile Museum It’s about 30 minutes south of town. And since you’ve gone that far, you might consider two places about 25 minutes further south. Tumacácori is the site of a precontact Native American trading center. The Jesuits and Franciscans built missions there, and the fairly intact remains of the Franciscan mission are the core of the Tumacácori National Historical Park (U.S. National Park Service) . The buildings are rather austere and together with the exhibits give you a good impression of what precontact and mission life was like. Nearby is Tubac, a little town filled with arts and crafts shops and one fun Mexican restaurant — Elvira’s Restaurant Tubac, Arizona Reservations are advised.

About ten minutes southeast of town in the Pima Air and Space Museum Home — Pima Air & Space . It houses 400 or so historic aircraft outdoors and in hangars. If you’re into planes, this should be on your list.

On the University of Arizona campus is the Flandrau Planetarium Home | Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium . The shows in the planetarium are fun and educational. Before you go, read on the site above about parking.

The SunLink Streetcar and Neighborhoods/Shopping/Nightlife –

Bahti Indian Arts Tucson — Bahti Indian Arts is one of the best shops in the nation for native American arts and crafts. It’s in the Barrio Historico which is itself worth a walk or a drive around. Barrio Historico Tucson Is One Of Arizona’s Oldest Neighborhoods

Tucson has a free modern streetcar that runs through most of the interesting areas in the center of the town — Sun Link Streetcar — Sun Tran One end is near the Banner University Medical Center at the corner of Helen and Warren, and about a 10 block walk from the Arizona Inn. From there it runs along the northern and western sides of the U of A — and very near the photography museum and the Flandrau planetarium. It then heads along the commercially hip area — Fourth Avenue, where there’s a nice bookstore — Antigone Books , along with many shops and restaurants. Next it goes downtown, the center for Tucson’s nightlife. Last, it ends at the Mercado San Agustin — What’s Here — Mercado District

A few words about nightlife and restaurants –

As I mentioned in the introduction, UNESCO has declared Tucson a “City of Gastronomy.” If you’re a Reddit user, go to r/Tucson and search for restaurant types, or simply start your own thread with a question. You will likely get many helpful responses. Also, the Tucson Weekly: The Best of Tucson, News, and Everything That Matters is a great resource for the ever-changing nightlife scene.

Photo Credit — Goddess of Agave — When In Your State

Paul has previously published A Personal Guide to Tucson, Arizona, on the web at Medium.

A PERSONAL GUIDE TO TUCSON, AZ, Part 1: Guest post by Paul Justison

Goddess of Agave, painted by Rock "Cyfi" Martinez, 2017, Tucson, AZ 

With many thanks to my friend Paul Justison for his excellent guide to the city of Tucson, posted here in two parts--Part 1, this week and Part 2, next week. Paul is the author of the novel Lost and Found in the 60s (Unsolicited Press, 2022.)

I spent my formative years in Tucson and go back often, because it’s special in many ways. Tucson sits in a high Sonoran Desert valley surrounded by mountains. The Catalinas to the north will command your attention. Many cultures have thrived here — Yaqui, Tohono O’odham, Spanish, Mexican, and after the USA bought the area from Mexico in 1848 — Anglo-Americans. Politically it tends to be left of center. When the Arizona legislature passed a bill that discriminated against Mexican Americans, the local — Pima County — sheriff refused to implement it. And today Tucson honors the Native American and Mexican food traditions for which it was recognized by UNESCO as a “City of Gastronomy.”

When to Go

It can get hot. Dry heat, but really hot — high 90s to low 100s. October through April is best with rarely cold and usually cool to mild temperatures, though early October and late April can still be quite warm. There’s still plenty to do and see in the summer, and hotels will be far less expensive. Just be prepared for serious heat.

Where to Stay

Tucson has accommodations in all types and price ranges, from luxury dude ranches, health and golf resorts to budget motels and B&Bs. I have one favorite and almost always stay there — the Arizona Inn — A Historic Boutique Hotel Retreat in Tucson | Arizona Inn . Linda Ronstadt, who grew up in Tucson, called it her favorite hotel in the world 5 Places to Visit in Tucson, Arizona, With Singer Linda Ronstadt — The New York Times . To me, the Inn is an oasis of beauty, calm, and exceptional food.

What to see — Natural environment

Undoubtedly the best place to learn about the plants and animals of the Sonoran Desert is The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum — Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, AZ — Zoo, Botanical Garden and Art Gallery . It’s an aquarium, botanical garden, natural history museum, and zoo all rolled into one fascinating experience. The roughly 10-mile drive west from downtown will take you through foothills sprinkled with houses, over Gates Pass and down into a sahuaro cactus-filled valley. You will always remember your visit.

There are three great places to hike or wander around the desert. First, Sabino Canyon is about 10 miles northeast of the center of town. What makes this canyon so popular is both the almost always flowing waterfalls and the marvelous collection of massive boulders deposited throughout the canyon by an 1888 earthquake. It’s a popular place to visit, so you’ll have to park and take a shuttle to the hiking trails or just ride the shuttle to and from the lot. Coronado National Forest — Sabino Canyon Recreation Area

Second and third are the two Sahuaro National Park sites, one east and one west of town — Saguaro National Park (U.S. National Park Service) . Both have many hiking trails to get you into the desert and up onto viewing platforms. Unlike Sabino though, there will rarely be flowing water.

Lastly, in mid-town, you’ll find the Tucson Botanical Garden. If you can’t make it to the Desert Museum, this is a reasonable alternative for learning about desert plants, and it has a fun butterfly exhibit to walk through. Tucson Botanical Gardens — Your Urban Oasis in the heart of Tucson

What to see — Art

One of my favorite small museums in the world is the Center for Creative Photography — About CCP | Center for Creative Photography It houses the archives of Ansel Adams and many other renowned photographers. Of interest to casual photographers and art lovers are the exhibitions they regularly host. I’ve seen exhibitions of Linda McCartney and Louis Carlos Bernal here. Well worth your time and it’s free, though check their calendar for sometimes they are between exhibits.

About a ¼ of a mile away on foot is the Arizona State Museum, which has a fine collection of Native American basketry, jewelry and pottery. Unfortunately, it’s closed for renovations until late 2026. Their website has much of the collection online and updates on the renovations. Home | Arizona State Museum

There are so many spectacular murals all over town that there are websites devoted to cataloguing them. Here are a few of those. The Tucson Murals Project ; 100+ murals in Tucson, plus a map | tucson life | tucson.com ; Tucson Murals If you’re interest in the murals. Peruse one or more of the above and then go on a mural hunting tour. If you’re short on time, I have two suggestions. My absolute favorite mural is the All Souls Procession by Susan Kay Johnson. It actually has an entry in the Library of Congress — Colorful Tucson, Arizona, is a city replete with murals, including several of gigantic proportions. Here, a portion of the All Souls Procession mural by local artist Susan Kay Johnson — original digital file | Library of Congress It takes up the entire block of 9th Avenue between University and 4th Street. And while you’re there, walk or drive slowly around the neighborhood. For it’s one of many quirky Tucson neighborhoods.

Two of the most monumentally spectacular murals are in sight of each other, but they are separated by one of the geometrically weirdest intersections, so take care in getting to them. The official address of the Goddess of Agave is 440 N. 7th Avenue which is Benjamin Plumbing Supply. Put that address in your GPS and park in their lot, but please not in one of the close in customer spots unless you are also looking for plumbing parts. Benjamin Supply also has a description of the mural on their website — Benjamin Supply — Tucson-AZ — but ignore the 6th street address. There’s no access to parking from that address. From that lot you can also see another spectacular mural — Epic Ride. Here’s the story behind that mural and two others These are Joe Pagac’s favorite murals he’s created in Tucson | tucson life | tucson.com

Photo Credit — Goddess of Agave — When In Your State

Paul has previously published A Personal Guide to Tucson, Arizona, on the web at Medium.

EXPERIENCE AMERICA at the Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington, D.C.

Baseball at Night, by Morris Kantor 1934, at the Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington, DC.

In Washington, D.C., the Smithsonian American Art Museum(SAAM) shares a building with the National Portrait Gallery (to be discussed in another post). For museum goers, it’s a two-fer. And it’s free, just like other Smithsonian museums! As in many places elsewhere in Washington, this is a repurposed federal building, originally the national patent office. 

Third Floor Gallery

The four floors are packed with art, displayed in what were once offices and meeting rooms. On the third floor is a long gallery, in all its Victorian splendor, where patent applicants once displayed models of their inventions. Today, portraits of famous sports figures line the upper walls. 

Vaquero by Luis Jimenez. Modeled 1980, cast 1990.

Outside, at the G Street entrance, one is greeted by a large blue horse sculpture. Both entrances to the building lead from the street to a large covered atrium, where there are benches to sit, tables where you can sit and eat snacks from the Courtyard Café, and colorful displays of orchids from the Smithsonian plant collections. 

Orchids in the Atrium of the Museum.

I chose to start in the SAAM gallery at the west end of the first floor, which, is devoted to art from the years of the Great Depression, a time when artists enjoyed public support unlike any time before or since. The title of the exhibit: Experience America.

Entrance to the six rooms of Experience America. Valley Farms by Floss Dickinson, 1934, on left; Baseball at Night by Morris Kantor, 1934 on right.

“Many of the paintings in Experience America were created in 1934 for a pilot program designed to put artists to work; others were produced under the auspices of the WPA, which followed. The thousands of paintings, sculptures, and murals placed in schools, post offices, and other public buildings stand as a testimony to the resilience of Americans during one of the most difficult periods in our history.”

Scenes from American Life: Beach by Gertrude Goodrich, 1941-1947. Mural for Cafeteria of the old Social Security Building.

Although there are a few sculptures in the exhibit, most of the pieces are representational paintings revealing a picture of life in America at that time—from hometown baseball games and barber shop scenes, to farms, city life, and cotton pickers in the South. Here is a sample of paintings in the exhibit.

Ryder's House, by Edward Hopper, 1933.

Orilla Verde at the Rio Grande by Kay Walkingstick, 1935.

Skating in Central Park by Agnes Tait, 1934.

Grandma Moses Goes to the Big City (detail) by Grandma Moses 1946. She lived to be 101 and was 86 when she painted this..

 

In His Barbershop by Ilya Bululowsky 1934.

Sunlight and Shadow by Alan Rohan Crite, 1941.

The Experience America exhibit at SAAM is ongoing. The permanent exhibitions of SAAM feature American art from the time of the Early Republic to Modernism. I did a quick walk through the Folk and Self-Taught Art section, and the Modern and Contemporary Art on the third floor, but ran out of time and energy to see everything. I’ll have to go back to see the rest.

Suburban Post in Winter by William Gropper, 1936-37. Mural study for Freeport, New York, Post Office.

DIEGO RIVERA at SFMOMA, San Francisco, CA

Pan American Unity, mural by Diego Rivera at SFMOMA, San Francisco

Stretching 74 feet from end to end, Diego Rivera’s giant mural known as Pan American Unity fills the Roberts Gallery on the first floor of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Painted on ten large panels for the Golden Gate International Exposition in 1940, it depicts a dizzying array of scenes detailing a past, present, and future that the artist believed were shared across North America.

Detail from center panel.

Rivera had been invited as the featured attraction in Art in Action, a massive exhibition that included artists creating works in front of a live audience.

When the 1940 exposition was over, the panels were moved to the campus of City College of San Francisco, where they remained until the summer of 2021 when the mural was moved temporarily to SFMOMA.

Center panels of Pan American Unity. (Original title, The Marriage of the Artistic Expression of the North and of the South on this Continent.)

I saw the Pan American Unity mural in December, 2022, on my visit to the museum to see the amazing retrospective of Diego Rivera’s work, Diego Rivera’s America, which focused on his work from the 1920s to mid-1940s. (The retrospective closed January 3, 2023, but the Pan American Unity mural will be on view for another year, until January 2024.) 

The Flower Carrier (1935)

I grew up with a print of Diego Rivera’s painting The Flower Carrier hanging over the piano in our house so when I saw it at the museum it was like meeting an old friend. I knew that Diego Rivera was a master painter, but I never appreciated the breadth of his work until I saw this exhibit. 

Self Portrait (1941) by Diego Rivera. This image appeared on a Mexican banknote.

Organized chronologically and thematically, the exhibit traced his development to become one of the greatest muralists of all time. He was also a portrait painter, costume designer, book illustrator, and social radical.

Studies for Creation, mural in Mexico City

From the beginning Diego Rivera thought big. On exhibit in one of the first rooms were his studies hands and heads. But unlike the small drawings I made in my sketch book in art school (drawing 50 hands was the first week’s homework assignment) Diego’s were all larger than life, as if for a giant.

The Market (1923-24). Mural painted at the headquarters of the Ministry of Public Education in Mexico City.

I wondered, in advance of going to the museum, how they were going to display Diego Rivera’s murals—since, unlike the Pan American Unity mural which was intended to be portable, most of the others are permanently attached to the walls on which they had been painted. The solution was to project photos of these other murals on the wall of a darkened room. As I stood there admiring the artwork towering before me, a figure of a real person suddenly crossed the screen, opened a door, and disappeared. Then another appeared and walked down the stairs. I realized then that the photos were actually videos, putting us the viewers into the scene and providing a sense of scale.

The Flowered Canoe (1931). A depiction of the canal system, originally built by the Aztecs, and still in use in the south of Mexico City.

The ten thematic galleries of the exhibit are dedicated to places that captured Diego Rivera’s imagination, and to his favorite subjects, such as street markets, popular celebrations, and images of labor and industry.

The Offering. In gallery featuring paintings of mothers and children.

One room contained pictures of mothers and children. Another gallery focused on his portraits, including some of people who were models for his murals.

Still Life and Blossoming Almond Trees (1931). Painted for the home of Sigmund and Rosalie Stern in rural San Mateo County. Ansel Adams photographed Rivera painting this mural.

Allegory of California (1930-32). Mural at the stairway of the Pacific Stock Exchange (now City Club), San Francisco. Model for woman is tennis star Helen Wills Moody.

Diego Rivera and Frida (1931) by Frida Kahlo (In the permanent collection of SFMOMA.)

In addition, there was a room of artwork by people influenced by Diego Rivera, including the famous marriage portrait by his wife, Frida Kahlo.The Mexican artist Frida Kahlo married Diego Rivera in 1929 and came with him to San Francisco in 1930.

The photos of the artwork you see in this post are just a fraction of the photos I took at the exhibit. I like to take photos when I go to a museum to help me remember and as a visual notes. Then, when I get home, I can enjoy the art all over again. I will continue to look at my photos and enjoy the art in Diego Rivera's America for a long time.

Banana, costume design for ballet HP (Horse Power), 1927, by Diego Rivera