Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts

Monday, April 6, 2026

HAPPY 15TH ANNIVERSARY to THE INTREPID TOURIST: Sunday at the Pyramids—Notes from the Field

Teotihuacan, Mexico. Pyramid of the Sun.

Fifteen years ago, in April 2011, I launched The Intrepid Tourist. Its original purpose was to publish my accumulated travel writing, but soon expanded to include articles by friends and family. With a new post once a week since then, there are now more than 600 posts on the blog. And the total number of views is now more than a million. I thank all my guest posters and my dedicated readers who inspire me to keep it going.

This week’s post comes from a long-lost folder, recently discovered when cleaning out my file drawers.  Every trip leaves its impressions—of sights, sounds, smells, people, animals, places—all the things that make a place and an experience unique. In 1992, I was in Mexico, researching my book City of the Gods: Mexico’s Ancient City of Teotihuacan. The notes I found in the file folder are my first impressions after arriving at the site, a short distance outside Mexico City. None of the information in my notes appears in my book, which is about the pre-Aztec civilization that thrived at Teotihuacan nearly 2000 years ago. I’m not sure why I kept them. But as I read through my notes I am transported back to that day. They encapsulate what I like most about travel—the richness of all the little things that make each experience unique and memorable.



 Sunday at the Pyramids

(Notes from the field.)

Tent restaurants along the road—each with someone waving at passing cars—a woman in a red dress with a white apron.

Families picnicking on the grassy area along the fence around the pyramids—making a rope swing from tree, playing soccer, drinking beer.

Vendors on road by traffic circle with buckets of oranges, cactus fruit, large woody objects like coconuts.

Old man and child with donkey cart stopped in the shade, looking through the fence at the garden of our hotel—green lawns, white iron tables, flowers, children’s play equipment.

Dogs and puppies everywhere. Also, chickens, a family of ducks, sheep, goats, donkeys--all randomly grazing along side of road.

Wildflowers—little yellow and orange ones; tiny purple fireweed.

Whirling men on a pole seen from a distance.

Donkey drinking beer in front of a craft shop.

Man offering a maguey demonstration.

Children driving green and orange plastic go-carts on the cement plaza.

A parade—chanting with banners.

Parking lot jammed with cars and tour buses.

Young couples more interested in each other than the pyramids—laughing, touching, kissing.

Children racing up steps of pyramids and crawling through irrigation holes in walls.

Vendors slipping out of their pockets obsidian heads and knives, clay figures—“good price”, “very cheap”, “genuine”.  Also selling blankets, necklaces, plates, flutes, harps.  A constant repetitive trill of flutes and simple tunes on harps.

Japanese group posing for photo on Sun Pyramid, taking turns with each camera. “Say whiskey!”

Met an Australian couple pushing a stroller with two children—had been told to walk 1 km down wrong road. They didn’t speak Spanish. We were parked by a cactus garden on road leading to Sun Pyramid. Dick was taking photos of the hundreds of people going up the steps of the pyramid with his 500 mm lens on a tripod. [Richard Hewett was the photographer of my book.]

Passed by two soldiers leading girls on horses—later soldiers returned alone.

All day there was the sound of fireworks—later found out it was from a fiesta celebrating the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Streets in the town of San Juan de Teotihuacan decorated with strings of paper decorations.

Soccer game on field within the archeological zone.

For more about Teotihuacan read my post of Jan 29, 2018 about the fabulous exhibit at the de Young Museum in San Francisco.

 

Monday, March 9, 2026

COPPER CANYON TRIP, Chihuahua, Mexico, Part 3, Guest Post by Susan Kean

Deer Dance in El Fuerte, Mexico.

In January my friend Susan Kean and her partner George took a ten-day Road Scholar trip to Copper Canyon in Mexico, a canyon three times greater than the Grand Canyon in the United States. She has graciously agreed to share her thoughts and photos about the trip.

From the balmy 80 degrees of Batopilas at the bottom of Copper Canyon, we headed back up to the top of the canyon by bus. Up there, at 7000 feet, it was snowy and icy! It had rained in the night before and our bus driver had to be vigilant for falling rocks.

Boarding the Chepe Express at Creel in the early morning.

After staying the night in Creel, we boarded the famous Chepe Train to descend 70 miles into the Septentrion Canyon to El Fuerte, where we stayed the next night.

View of restaurant car and domed viewing area.

I tried taking pictures from the train window-- not very successfully. This shows the carriage with the restaurant and glass viewing area. One of the required qualifications for this trip was to be able to walk on a moving train. We had lunch in the restaurant and climbed steps up to the viewing area. Quite a fun experience.

Descending into Septentrion Canyon.

The train was long and we were able to see the engine ahead of us as it came around one of the many curves to help it ascend and descend about 7000 feet.

Canyon bottom.

Finally, we approached the plain at the bottom of the canyon.

Susan and George. 

During our trip we spent a lot of time learning about the various indigenous groups of people in this part of Mexico. They hosted us to meals, shared their customs, showed us basket weaving, and we learned how they had modified the Catholic faith to blend with their original religious practices. The Tarahumara were in the main part of Copper Canyon, and then in El Fuerte we shared a religious experience of the Deer Dance with the Mayo People. We also enjoyed lunch with a Mennonite community near Divisadero. 

Young girl learning the deer dance.

We watched a young girl learning the Deer Dance. Usually the tradition goes from grandfather to grandson, but there is no grandson in the line so the granddaughter is inheriting the responsibility of keeping the tradition alive

Sunset from a fort in El Fuerte. We are now back in balmy temperatures and George went for a swim in the hotel pool.

From Fuerte we drove by bus to Los Mochis where we got a flight to Tijuana International Airport. We followed directions carefully for passport control and literally walked across a bridge and were in San Diego.

It was an incredibly interesting trip and Road Scholar did a great job. Our leader knew everyone at each location. My photos only scratch the surface of an extraordinary travel experience. 

Monday, March 2, 2026

COPPER CANYON TRIP, Chihuahua, Mexico, Part 2: Guest Post by Susan Kean

Descending into Copper Canyon.

In January, my friend Susan Kean and her partner George took a ten-day Road Scholar trip to Copper Canyon in Chihuahua, Mexico--a canyon three times greater than the Grand Canyon in the United States. She has graciously agreed to share her thoughts and photos about the trip. Here is the second half of her two-part report.

At the top of Copper (cobre) Canyon.

This morning we left Divisadero on the top of the canyon and drove down a very twisty road to Batopilas, stopping on the way in a restaurant run by the local indigenous people--the Tarahumara.

Restaurant on the way to Batopilas.

We had delicious chile relleno served with beans and rice and I loved the beautifully decorated china. The mural shows the cave house where the indigenous folks live.The motel/ restaurant has no electricity by choice. They use hurricane lamps and fires for heating.

Tarahumara woman along the side of the road.

There were lots of rocks on the road at various spots. In the worst spots the driver checked the hillside to make sure none were rolling down on us!!!

View of Copper Canyon from the toilet stop. Note narrow winding road into the canyon.
 
The toilet stop on the way was an outhouse with a long drop down to the canyon floor if you missed a step! This trip is not for sissies. Walking at 7000 feet in freezing cold to go and see a waterfall was tough for me at this stage of my life. Lots of steps, no railings. I used my stick and George!

Bedroom and lounge area in the hotel in Batopilas.

Batopilas is an absolutely beautiful town. Our hotel is a 19th Century hacienda with amazing rooms and vintage bathtubs. Not sure about that!

Vintage bathrub.

At dinner we were told about the amazing history of Batopilas. Silver has made the town rich.

Early the next morning we said goodbye to Copper Canyon

Monday, February 23, 2026

COPPER CANYON TRIP, Chihuahua, Mexico, Part 1: Guest Post by Susan Kean

Chihuahua, Mexico.

In January my friend Susan Kean and her partner George took a ten-day Road Scholar trip to Copper Canyon in Mexico, a canyon four times greater than the Grand Canyon in the United States. She has graciously agreed to share her thoughts and photos about the trip.

Our trip to Copper Canyon, Mexico, began in El Paso, Texas, where we met our bus to take us to the border. We crossed through at the Santa Teresa crossing, about 20 miles from El Paso. All very peaceful and easy.

Pancho Villa. Always on a horse.

One of Pancho Villa's many saddles.

Our bus then drove us to Chihuahua--a rich town developed thanks to the silver trade. On arrival, our first stop was the Pancho Villa Museum, which is housed in his home. His wife lived there until 1980 (She was much younger than he was.)

Decor inside house. Picture of Pancho Villa.

Beautiful citrus in courtyard.

Pancho Villa is seen in a lot of different lights but he was the leader of the Mexican Revolution in the northern part of Mexico. He went on to become mayor of Chihuahua. He was shot in his car in 1923.

Car where Pancho Villa was shot.

Mural of Revolution depicting woman revolutionary at the Pancho Villa Museum in Chihuahua.

Many women fought for the Revolution, often dressed as men so they could fight. We learned they tried out different forms of Government after the Revolution and settled for Democracy

Early the next morning we took a walking tour of downtown Chihuahua before heading to the Canyon.

Municipal buildings in downtown Chihuahua in the early morning.

Cathedral in Chihuahua.

As near as we came to an actual chihuahua.

Note: Part 2 will post next week.

Monday, January 6, 2025

SANGRE DE NOPAL/BLOOD OF THE NOPAL: Exhibit at the Fowler Museum, UCLA, Los Angeles, CA

Sangre de Nopal exhibit at the Fowler Museum, UCLA.

One of my favorite museums in Los Angles is the Fowler Museum on the campus of UCLA, with its focus on art and material culture, primarily from Asia, Africa, and the Pacific, as well as the Americas. In mid-December I made an excursion to the Fowler to do some holiday shopping in its excellent gift shop, and while I was there made a quick visit to the exhibit Sangre de Nopal/Blood of the Nopal: Tanya Aquiniga and PorfirioGutierrez en Conversacion/in Conversation, which is on view in one of the four museum galleries. While we were there we saw two groups of school children who had come to see the exhibit and participate in the hands-on displays.

Somos una tela continue (We are a continuous cloth), 2023 by Tanya Aquiniga, 2023. Found objects and stones from the Los Angeles River, low-fired terra cotta, cotton dyed with terracotta, and cotton rope.

The exhibit features fiber artists Tanya Aquiniga and Porfirio Gutierrez as well as Oaxacan textiles from the Fowler Museum collection. 

Oaxacan textiles from the Fowler collection. Installation inspired by the temporary devotional structures called Lis Dxan erected during Holy Week in Zapotecan communities.

Here are some of the items on display.

Somos Mujeres (We Are Women) by Tanya Aquiniga, 2024. Terra cotta, nickel, epoxy, cochineal dye, cochineal insects, cotton rope. 

Nopal by Tanya Aquiniga, 2017. Abaca pulp, clay, alpaca, flax, succulents, iron, horsehair, cochineal, copper, gold, human hair.

Emotional Body by Tanya Aquiliga, 2023. Cotton rope and low-fire terra cotta. Video.

Detail of Emotional Body.


Sangre de Nopal/Blood of the Nopal: Tanya Aguiñiga & Porfirio Gutiérrez en Conversación/in Conversation 
is organized by the Museum of Contemporary Art Santa Barbara and developed in collaboration with the Fowler Museum at UCLA. It is a multi-site project offering an expanded understanding of the scientific and Indigenous origins of cochineal, a red dye developed by the Zapotec peoples.

What is cochineal?

First cultivated by the Zapotec peoples around 500 B.C., cochineal is derived from an insect that lives on the opuntia (prickly pear) cactus. Its chemical ingenuity, stability, and chromatic intensity changed the course of art around the world. Despite the global scale and impact of cochineal, its spiritual, medicinal, and technical origins within Indigenous Mexican communities remain little understood. Sangre de Nopal offers a case study in multi-generational innovation, acknowledging the scientific knowledge and cultural heritage embedded in the cultivation of cochineal. (From the Fowler Museum website.)


The exhibit will be on view at the Fowler until January 12, 2025. I am glad I got to see it before it closes.

Entrance to Fowler Museum of Cultural History, UCLA


Monday, July 22, 2024

INDIGENOUS HISTORIES at the KODE MUSEUM OF ART, Bergen, Norway

Big Party (detail) by Patricia Rengifo. Indigenous Histories at the Kode Museum of Art, Bergen, Norway

On our recent trip to Norway I visited a fascinating exhibition at the Kode Museum of Art in Bergen called Indigenous Histories. With more than 285 items on display, the exhibition presents different accounts of indigenous experience from South America, North America, Oceania, and the Nordic region, through art and visual culture, curated by artists and researchers who are indigenous or of indigenous descent. It will be on view until August 25, 2024. Here are just a few examples illustrating the wide variety of items in the exhibit and where they are from.

SOUTH AMERICA

Peru

Brazil. Big Party by Patricia Rengifo


Brazil

Brazil

Peru

Brazil

Brazil

OCEANIA

Australia

Australia

Australia

Australia

New Zealand

NORTH AMERICA

Mexico

Mexico

Canada

Canada

NORDIC REGION

Norway

Norway

The Kode Museums include four art museums and three composers' homes. For more about the Kode Museums in Bergen check their website.
[Note: this post appeared at my Art and Books blog on June 22, 2024.]