MADAGASCAR: Guest Post by Karen Minkowski

Red-fronted brown lemur, Madagascar

My friend Karen Minkowski, a frequent contributor to The Intrepid Tourist and definitely an intrepid traveler, is currently in Africa, a place that she has visited often. She writes:

As well protected from Covid as I could be, I decided it was time to return to southern Africa.  When I called my friend who lives in Zimbabwe and told her “I’m ready”, she said “Great, how about joining us in Madagascar first”?  Madagascar had never called to me, but without giving it two seconds’ thought I said “Yes!”.  I’m happy that I did. We saw landscapes and wildlife that were completely new to me and enjoyed many amazing experiences.

A full report of Karen's trip to Madagascar, filled with her wonderful photographs, is HERE  Just click to download the PDF. Karen's report is filled with incredible close-ups of lemurs, lizards, birds and other unique Madagascar wildlife as well as pictures of her tour group visiting Tsingis de Bemaraha National Park, where you have to cross a rope bridge to reach the other side, remote villages of the Zafimanairy people, and other World Heritage sites. Karen's text makes you feel as if you are a vicarious visitor to Madagascar. Enjoy!

Chameleon

Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher

Tsingis de Bemaraha National Park, a World Heritage Site

Rice paddies in village of Antoetra

The photos in this post are just a small sample of the more than two dozen amazing photos in Karen's report linked above as a PDF. 

 

MADAGASCAR: Leaping Lemurs, Guest Post by Owen Floody, Part 1

 52 Places to Go: Week 35

Diadamed Sifaka, Madagascar

In June 2016, our friend Owen Floody planned and led a trip to Madagascar.  Owen recently retired from a career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken several trips that allow him to pursue his passion. He has been a frequent contributor to The Intrepid Tourist. Here is part 1 of a short reflection on his Madagascar trip and a few of his excellent photographs. 

One of the world's places that might best be seen soon, in case it is not preserved over the long term, is Madagascar.  The history and isolation of this large island off the east coast of southern Africa have blessed it with some wildlife that is unique (especially its lemurs) along with some that is unusual though not unique (e.g., its array of colorful chameleons). Madagascar also presents a wide range of habitats, including several types of rainforest at different altitudes (coastal to montane), dry deciduous forests, grasslands, deserts (“spiny forests”) and large expanses of sharp limestone pinnacles (“tsingy”).

Tsingy

Alas, some if not all of these habitats are at risk, in part due to the widespread use of charcoal for cooking: Most or all of Madagascar’s unprotected forests already are gone, increasing the pressure on the protected areas that remain.  Tourism can help in this regard, by giving local residents a stake in forest preservation.  Evidence for such beneficial effects can be seen, for instance, in the requirement for local (in addition to national) guides and in the development of community-based wildlife reserves.  The net effect is that a visit to Madagascar can have the immediate effect of exposing you to some wonderful scenery and wildlife at the same time that it encourages the preservation of these resources for future visitors.

Bamboo lemur

Madagascar’s roads can make it a challenging place to tour. On my recent trip, we began with an abortive trip from the capital Antananarivo (Tana) to a pair of rainforest parks directly to the east, hoping to see and, even more to the point, hear the dawn chorus of the indri, the largest of the lemurs.  Alas, what we discovered is that the indri hunker down and clam up in the rain.  Still, this excursion permitted us to visit the semi-captive lemurs on Lemur Island, as well as the residents of a local reserve specializing in chameleons and other reptiles.

Chameleon

Once back in Tana, we boarded a flight for Morondava, on the west coast.  From there, we drove north with the goal of visiting Madagascar’s premier tsingy site, the Tsingy de Bemaraha (a World Heritage site).  Along the way, we were enchanted by Baobab Avenue, an amazing concentration of huge baobab trees.  

Baobab Avenue

In addition, we stopped to hike within the dry deciduous forest at Kirindy Reserve, looking both for lemurs and their major predator, the fossa, which despite appearances is a type of civet or mongoose, not a cat.

Fossa

Nevertheless, it was the tsingy that stole the show. Within the park, we took two hikes, through the Petit Tsingy and Grand Tsingy.  Both provided great opportunities to view the tsingy from above (viewpoints), within (as we hiked along gaps in the formations), sometimes even below (as we crawled through short caves or tunnels within the rock).  This variety of perspectives helped to impress upon us the height of the limestone pinnacles.  Combining this with the aerial extent of the formations emphasized at the overlooks, one could not fail to come away from this site in awe of its stark majesty.

Once we tore ourselves away from the tsingy, we retraced our steps, first to Morondava, then on to Tana, where the second major phase of our trip began. 

Note: I devised the trip itinerary, which was ably implemented by Cortez, USA, a California-based tour-operator that specializes in Madagascar.  In the past, Madagascar has been criticized for the quality of its tourism infrastructure.  With respect to the roads, this was and still is justified.  In all other respects (accommodations, food, guides), however, I thought that we were extremely well treated on this trip and so would urge others, especially others with an interest in unusual wildlife, to give Madagascar a try.

 

This article was first published January 16, 2017. 

For Part 2 of Owen's post about his trip to Madagascar, click HERE. 

MADAGASCAR: Leaping Lemurs, Guest Post by Owen Floody, Part 2

A pair of Coquerel’s sifakas, Madagascar

In June 2016, our friend Owen Floody planned and led a trip to Madagascar.  Owen recently retired from a career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken several trips that allow him to pursue his passion. He has been a frequent contributor to The Intrepid Tourist. Here is part 2 of a short reflection on his Madagascar trip and a few of his excellent photographs. 

The second half of my Madagascar trip involved an extended drive down the central spine of the country, from Tana in the central highlands to Tulear, on the southwest coast.  As this was a long trip along one of Madagascar’s main roads, it gave us the chance to see a lot of the country, including many towns, villages and local markets.  Some in my group relished the opportunities this created for people-watching, other cultural experiences, and shopping.

Isalo National Park

I was primarily interested in exploring a series of national parks promising dramatic contrasts in their environments and wildlife.  Chief on my list were Ranomafana, Andringitra and Isalo National Parks.  The first two comprise one third of the Rainforests of the Atsinanana, a World Heritage Site.  In its emphasis on rainforests, this designation applies perfectly to Ranomafana but strikes me as slightly misleading in the case of Andringitra.  Ranomafana is one of Madagascar’s premier rainforests.  Likewise, it is one of the country’s prime sites for lemur-focused research and tourism.  In contrast, Andringitra’s claim to fame is based more on its mountainous landscape, unusual vegetation and opportunities for hiking.  And quite distinct from both of these, Isalo National Park features expanses of dry grassland, rare endemic plants, and especially striking sandstone formations and canyons.

Ranomafana National Park

In Ranomafana, the forest itself was the star attraction.  We did see lemurs, although they were difficult to spot, let alone view clearly, in the dense vegetation.  On the other hand, the absence of large predators makes it possible to search for wildlife at night as well as during the day.  Indeed, we were able to do this in most of the parks and reserves we visited, and these walks were very productive, since a significant number of lemurs that are nocturnal.

Mouse lemur

In Andringitra, we did two demanding hikes, one up onto a high plateau known for its lunar landscape, the other into one of the bands of rainforest extending into this park.  The first of these was especially rewarding despite the mist that obscured much of the landscape on the day of our hike.

“Dancing” Verreaux’s sifaka

Finally, we had a great time at Isalo.  One highlight was a hike up a canyon leading to the Cascade des Nymphes.  We had rewarding encounters here with lemurs, both on the hike and immediately afterwards, as we attracted quite an audience to our picnic lunch.  

Ring-tailed lemur

The other Isalo highlight was the viewing of sunset at La Fenètre (the window), a natural opening in a rock formation through which the setting sun can be viewed.  I strongly think, however, that the far better sunset views here are those looking away from the sun and at the glowing slabs of fantastically-shaped sandstone basking in the sun’s dying rays.

Sunset from La Fenetre

If you haven’t ever considered a trip to Madagascar, you should give it some thought.  The remaining natural areas and wildlife need the support of foreign tourists.  Furthermore, some of these areas are as impressive as I’ve seen anywhere and there simply cannot be any animal anywhere that is as endearing as a lemur.

Note: I devised the trip itinerary, which was ably implemented by Cortez, USA, a California-based tour-operator that specializes in Madagascar.  In the past, Madagascar has been criticized for the quality of its tourism infrastructure.  With respect to the roads, this was and still is justified.  In all other respects (accommodations, food, guides), however, I thought that we were extremely well treated on this trip and so would urge others, especially those with an interest in unusual wildlife, to give Madagascar a try.

MADAGASCAR: Leaping Lemurs, Guest Post by Owen Floody, Part 1

Diadamed Sifaka, Madagascar

In June 2016, our friend Owen Floody planned and led a trip to Madagascar.  Owen recently retired from a career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken several trips that allow him to pursue his passion. He has been a frequent contributor to The Intrepid Tourist. Here is part 1 of a short reflection on his Madagascar trip and a few of his excellent photographs. 

One of the world's places that might best be seen soon, in case it is not preserved over the long term, is Madagascar.  The history and isolation of this large island off the east coast of southern Africa have blessed it with some wildlife that is unique (especially its lemurs) along with some that is unusual though not unique (e.g., its array of colorful chameleons). Madagascar also presents a wide range of habitats, including several types of rainforest at different altitudes (coastal to montane), dry deciduous forests, grasslands, deserts (“spiny forests”) and large expanses of sharp limestone pinnacles (“tsingy”). 

Tsingy

Alas, some if not all of these habitats are at risk, in part due to the widespread use of charcoal for cooking: Most or all of Madagascar’s unprotected forests already are gone, increasing the pressure on the protected areas that remain.  Tourism can help in this regard, by giving local residents a stake in forest preservation.  Evidence for such beneficial effects can be seen, for instance, in the requirement for local (in addition to national) guides and in the development of community-based wildlife reserves.  The net effect is that a visit to Madagascar can have the immediate effect of exposing you to some wonderful scenery and wildlife at the same time that it encourages the preservation of these resources for future visitors.

Bamboo lemur

Madagascar’s roads can make it a challenging place to tour. On my recent trip, we began with an abortive trip from the capital Antananarivo (Tana) to a pair of rainforest parks directly to the east, hoping to see and, even more to the point, hear the dawn chorus of the indri, the largest of the lemurs.  Alas, what we discovered is that the indri hunker down and clam up in the rain.  Still, this excursion permitted us to visit the semi-captive lemurs on Lemur Island, as well as the residents of a local reserve specializing in chameleons and other reptiles.

Chameleon

Once back in Tana, we boarded a flight for Morondava, on the west coast.  From there, we drove north with the goal of visiting Madagascar’s premier tsingy site, the Tsingy de Bemaraha (a World Heritage site).  Along the way, we were enchanted by Baobab Avenue, an amazing concentration of huge baobab trees.  

Baobab Avenue

In addition, we stopped to hike within the dry deciduous forest at Kirindy Reserve, looking both for lemurs and their major predator, the fossa, which despite appearances is a type of civet or mongoose, not a cat.

Fossa

Nevertheless, it was the tsingy that stole the show. Within the park, we took two hikes, through the Petit Tsingy and Grand Tsingy.  Both provided great opportunities to view the tsingy from above (viewpoints), within (as we hiked along gaps in the formations), sometimes even below (as we crawled through short caves or tunnels within the rock).  This variety of perspectives helped to impress upon us the height of the limestone pinnacles.  Combining this with the aerial extent of the formations emphasized at the overlooks, one could not fail to come away from this site in awe of its stark majesty.

Once we tore ourselves away from the tsingy, we retraced our steps, first to Morondava, then on to Tana, where the second major phase of our trip began. 

Note: I devised the trip itinerary, which was ably implemented by Cortez, USA, a California-based tour-operator that specializes in Madagascar.  In the past, Madagascar has been criticized for the quality of its tourism infrastructure.  With respect to the roads, this was and still is justified.  In all other respects (accommodations, food, guides), however, I thought that we were extremely well treated on this trip and so would urge others, especially others with an interest in unusual wildlife, to give Madagascar a try.

Look for Part 2 next week.

THE DUKE LEMUR CENTER, Durham, North Carolina

Duke Lemur Center, "Tonga Soa" means "Welcome" in Malagasy

A year ago, in November, when we were in North Carolina for Thanksgiving, we did a family outing to the Duke Lemur Center located near Duke University in Durham, NC where a very knowledgeable docent gave us a tour of the facilities and told us more about lemurs than we ever knew before. 

Ring-tailed Lemurs
More than 200 lemurs live at the Duke Lemur Center.  It is the largest group of lemurs outside of Madagascar and is a place where scientists learn about lemurs close-up and study them in ways that would be impossible in nature. 

Prosimians include lemurs, bush babies, and lorises

Lemurs are prosimians that live on the island of Madagascar and the nearby Comora Islands. (The first prosimians lived 55 million years ago.)  Lemurs once lived in every part of the island but now, due to habitat destruction, are found only around the edges.  Wild lemurs often live high in the trees and in remote places and many are active only at night. It is hard to study lemurs where they live in the wild.  The DLC provides the opportunity for scientists to learn more about these unusual and endangered animals.

Sifakas in their Outdoor Enclosure

Most of the lemurs at the DLC live in family groups in buildings with access to both inside and outside facilities.  Each lemur has its own room with a door to an outside cage.  Openings between cages allow the animals to be together or stay alone.  We enjoyed watching the lemurs in their outdoor cages, where they scampered about, seeming to enjoy the bright, sunny day as much as we were.

Map of Madagascar

Many lemurs are nocturnal (which explains why they often have such large eyes.)  At the DLC, the nocturnal animals occupy rooms that are dark during the day with the only light coming from low, red lamps, which has the effect of starlight or moonlight.  Because it is dark, the lemurs move around as they would in the night, which allows scientists to observe their behavior without having to work in the wee hours of the night.  At night, bright lights are turned on in the nocturnal room and the lemurs go to sleep.  When we visited, it took a while for our eyes to adjust to the dark before we could see the animals.

In the warm months (April to October) some of the lemurs are allowed to live in the forest that surrounds the Research Center.  There they explore, climb trees, and hunt for food just as wild lemurs do in Madagascar.  A fence around the 14.3 acre forest allows them plenty of room to roam.  In the forest, scientists observe the lemurs as they move about and interact with one another.  Since we were there in November, all the animals were inside, but if you visit during the summer, there is an option of an outdoor tour.

Tours:  To find out about tours of the Duke Lemur Center and how to make reservations, click here.