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| Nærøyfjord, Norway. |
My friend
Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog,
took the photos in this post in July 2025.
Why
Norway? For scenery and Viking history! Under “scenery,” my husband and I
targeted three natural wonders: the Lofoten Islands, fjords,
and Jotunheimen National Park, home of the highest mountains in Norway. This
blog post is about the fjords.
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| Fjiords (F), Norway (N), Oslo (O). |
We decided
to visit the two Norwegian fjords listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Nærøyfjord,
perhaps the narrowest, most stunning of them all, and the wider Geirangerfjord.
We usually prefer to design our own tailored itineraries, and to buy tickets
and make reservations ourselves. But to avoid long drives in a rental car, we favored
public transportation. And to avoid errors in connecting trains, boats, and buses,
I looked for a package deal, for only four of the many days we would spend
exploring Scandinavia.
My online
research zoomed in on www.FjordTours.com, which I
wholeheartedly recommend. The website offers many trip outlines for traveling
without a guide. For the “Norway in a Nutshell & Geirangerfjord” tour, I had
to try different start dates before the interactive tool could find availability
for two people on five trains, three boats, and four buses. Booking the whole
package took only one click.
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| Star Wars filming location. |
From Oslo,
a 6:20 a.m. train** took us through farmland into mountains past Finse, the
filming location of the ice planet Hoth in
Star Wars: The Empire Strikes
Back. A second scenic train ride took us steeply down the mountains, including
through 20 tunnels, to sea level at the head of a fjord.
There, the
supreme highlight of the entire four days was to be a two-hour boat ride. The
second half of it would take us into Nærøyfjord. In
the 1888 book, Midnight Sunbeams or Bits of Travel Through the Land of the
Norseman, author Edwin Coolidge Kimball wrote, “The fjord
is winding in its course, and in places the mountains close it in so that it
appears to be a small lake, the great headlands of granite forming grand and
imposing boundaries. Many waterfalls—some over a thousand feet high appearing
like threads of silver as they descend in a broken course from the snow-fields
above, others with more volume of water from lesser heights—plunge into the
fjord below. Every turn of the steamer unfolds new grandeurs of rock formation
and a fresh supply of waterfalls.”
Given the
fickle Norwegian summer weather, I couldn’t believe our luck when we lined up
to board the boat under bright blue skies. That’s when the captain appeared,
unsmiling. “Sorry,” he said. “The boat ride is canceled due to a technical
problem. This is not a joke.” No one was laughing. FjordTours immediately sent
buses to take stranded customers to the next stop in only 20 minutes… through a
lo‑o‑ong
tunnel—some sightseeing! I took the postcard-like
photo of Nærøyfjord (at the top of
this post) from the spot where the indisposed boat would have docked at the end
of the cruise.
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| View from the Stalheim Hotel. |
A bus took
us as planned to see an incredible view from the Stalheim Hotel, then to a
train to Bergen where we arrived at bedtime. Staying there two nights gave us
time to visit the excellent Edvard Grieg Museum, the
former home of the most famous Norwegian composer.
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| Medieval alley in Bergen. |
We also
visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bryggen, including a few narrow medieval
alleys with wooden bridges connecting former fishing-trade warehouses. And we
ate the best fish ever, fresh, not from medieval times: monkfish and flounder
at Fjellskål. At home, I am a near-vegetarian, but on trips, I am willing to
taste some of what the locals eat.
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| A beautiful summer day to go sailing in Norway. |
Next,
we spent a day traveling north by scenic boat and bus to Ålesund*** (pronounced
awl-soon’d) on the Atlantic coast.
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| Hotel Brosundet in Alesund. |
Our
yellow Hotel Brosundet on
a historic harbor canal was
a repurposed fishing
industry warehouse. Around town, we spotted pastel colored
Art Nouveau buildings with
stylized botanical motifs such as daisies and leaves. We tasted
more delicious seafood at Anno, crab-encrusted
haddock and fish soup.
The next morning, we embarked on a three-hour
boat ride headed inland where the waterway would finally narrow down to
Geirangerfjord. I ran around the outdoor deck, hunting for photos of shoreline
villages in sun patches, charming old boat sheds, and waterfalls, trying to click
fast enough to catch the best angle before the boat motored on.
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| Historic farm. |
The most amazing sights were of
historic farms perched partway up dizzying slopes, out of reach of potential attackers.
In his 1888 book, Kimball wrote about such a farm, “…one
wonders how a human being can choose such a place for a habitation, midway
between heaven and earth, exposed to falling avalanches from above, and to
sliding down the yawning precipices into the fjord below. It is said that the
parents here tether their children with ropes, to keep them from the edge of
the cliff, and from ‘taking a header far down below’.”
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| Entering Geirangerfjiord. |
Our boat turned into Geirangerfjord
for the last half hour of the cruise.
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| The Seven Sisters. |
In the above photo of the Seven Sisters
waterfall, a kayak gives an idea of the scale. On the opposite wall of the
fjord, our boat approached a rushing waterfall, making passengers squeal and
laugh as they got misted.
That
afternoon, a scenic bus ride brought us to Åndalsnes. There, instead of taking
two trains back to Oslo that night, we dropped out of the tour and picked up a rental
car we had reserved from home, to go hiking for a week in Jotunheimen National
Park.
Footnotes:
*
Credit for the globe image: Rob984 - Derived from Germany on the globe (Germany
centered).svg, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.
**Read CarolineArnold’s post about Bergen.
***Read CarolineArnold’s post about Ålesund.