HISTORIC LEWES, THE OLDEST TOWN IN DELAWARE

Replica of the Lewes Lighthouse, Lewes, Delaware.

The town of Lewes, founded in 1631 by Dutch settlers, is the oldest town in the state of Delaware. Located at the coast where Delaware Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean, it sits behind a long, sandy beach and grassy marsh.

Log cabin occupied by an early settler.

In early September, we spent a weekend in Lewes with our extended family, staying in a vacation house near the beach. Years ago, I had read a children’s book called Cornstalks and Cannonballs, about how the citizens of Lewes had defended their town when it was under siege by British warships during the War of 1812. The Cannonball House, the only building actually struck during the siege, is now a museum, the cannonball still embedded in its wall. During my visit I was curious to find out more about the story and about local history.

Historic buildings at the Lewes Historical Society Museum, Main Campus.

Lewes is filled with many historic sites and museums, following its course of history from the time of the native Americans (the Lenape) who have lived in the area for thousands of years, through the Revolutionary War and up to the 20^th Century. 

Site of the home of Leah Burton, an advocate of women's rights.

I started my explorations at the Lewes Historical Society Museum main campus, located on Ship Carpenter Street. There, in a park-like setting, a variety of structures are on display, moved there from their original sites. They range from a log cabin used originally as a dwelling, to a schoolhouse, a doctor’s office, a general store and several other buildings. Refreshments are available at the historic Sussex Tavern.

Schoolhouse bell. Wooden shingles were common on 19th Century buildings.

19th Century school room. Desktops have holes for ink bottles.

Until the 1960s Lewes schools were segregated. They were not fully integrated until 1966.

Although the schoolhouse is meant to reflect those typical of earlier generations, the wooden desks are exactly the same as the ones I sat at in my elementary school in the 1950s.  I remember when my third grade teacher passed out bottles of ink so we could practice our penmanship.

Revolutionary War surgical instruments.

Detailed signs throughout the park explain the significance of exhibits and make it easy to do a self-guided tour. And in the general store—filled with antiques available for purchase—there is a volunteer to answer questions and provide information to visitors. From her I learned that in the book about Lewes that I had remembered so well, the story had been fictionalized. The cannonballs and bravery of the citizens is all true, but there never were any cornstalks painted black to look like rifles. 

Antique dolls.

Singer sewing machine.

Among the antiques on display at the house behind the general store were a China doll similar to one my mother played with as a child and a Singer sewing machine just like my grandmother’s. I first learned to sew on her treadle machine.

Train outside the Lewes History Museum.

From there I went to the Lewes History Museum at the town Community Center at 101 Adams Avenue. It is located in what used to be the town library, now in a new larger building next door. At the museum we saw an excellent short video about the history of Delaware. Parked outside, between the Community Center and Library is a historic Pennsylvania Railroad train, complete with engine, coal car and caboose.

Zwaanendael Museum, built in 1931 to honor the 300th anniversary of Lewes.

The Historical Society also operates the Zwaanendael Museum, which features the maritime, civil and social history of Lewes, and is built in the Dutch style of the 17th Century.  We didn’t have time to go inside or to visit all of the other historical sites of Lewes in our short visit. Clearly, we will have to return some day! If we go there five years from now, we will be on time for the celebration of its 400th year!

WEEKEND AT THE BEACH, LEWES, DELAWARE: Sun, Sand and Nature

Beach at Cape Henlopen State Park, Lewes, Delaware.

As gentle waves lapped the shore of Delaware Bay in Lewes, Delaware. gulls skwawked overhead, children flew kites and built sandcastles, and beach goers enjoyed the water and fresh air. It was Labor Day weekend and the weather was perfect. We were in Lewes for a family reunion. During our stay we took several walks on the beach and along the paths in nearby Cape Henlopen State Park. As always, we had our eye out for birds and other wildlife. Here is some of what we saw.

All along the water's edge, we watched shorebirds foraging for food. Delaware is on the Eastern Flyway of North America, followed by millions of birds on their annual migrations. 

Laughing gull (juvenile).

Semipalmated plover.

Ring-billed gull.

Besides birds, we also found the remains of both blue crabs and hermit crabs that had washed up along the shore.

Atlantic blue crab.

Hermit crabs. The long tail is called a telson. The crabs come on shore on warm summer nights to mate and lay eggs.

I wrote about hermit crabs in my book Living Fossils: Clues to the Past but had never seen them in person. I was thrilled to find them on the beach at Lewes. Horseshoe crabs have been around for a long time. "One hundred and fifty thousand years ago, a horseshoe crab crawled onto the shore of a shallow lagoon in what is now southern Germany and searched for worms and shellfish in the damp sand. Nearby, dinosaurs preyed on insects and small animals, and lizards sat in the sun. In the air, winged reptiles soared and one of the earliest birds, archaeopteryx, flapped its wings."

The dinosaurs and winged reptiles are long gone. We only know about them from their fossil remains, but horseshoe crabs are still with us, changed little from ancient times. They are living fossils. 

Jellyfish are also ancient creatures. One afternoon we found dozens of them washed up on the sand. Some were nearly ten inches in diameter. We had to be careful not to step on them. Some jellyfish can give a nasty sting, although the moon jellyfish usually does not.

Moon jellyfish (Aurelia sp.)

Cape Henlopen State Park.

We also visited Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes, formerly a military site, and now a place for public recreation. As well as a large public beach, the park has a campground and many trails for walkers, joggers and bikers. We took a path from the parking lot at Herring Point that went through coastal woodland and tidal wetlands.

On our walk we followed well-marked level paths through the woodland and across the marsh. 

View from the bridge. The marshland seems to go on forever.

Goldenrod along the path.

We thoroughly enjoyed our three days at the beach and the chance to reune with our family and create new memories. We would love to go back someday.

On the path near our rental house over the dunes to Lewes beach.

THE HOOD TO COAST RELAY RACE (OREGON) Guest Post by Sara Kras, with Photos by Caroline Hatton

Hood to Coast Relay Race runners in Portland, Oregon.

My friend Sara Kras is a fellow children’s writer and past contributor to this blog. Our friend Caroline Hatton took the photos in this post in August 2026. Sara was in Portland visiting her daughter who lives right on the race route. Sara commented, "It was a lot of fun watching the various runners."

Appearing like a mirage in the darkness on Linn Street, Portland, Oregon, joggers, one after another, laced with neon string lights around their necks passed by. Their breath came out ragged and heavy. Staff volunteers armed with flashlights stood on the street corner by the railroad track. “Watch out for the tracks. Go to the left,” one instructed. “Good job,” said another.

Where did these joggers come from and why were they out at 10 p.m. and later?

They were part of the 44^th annual Hood to Coast Relay Race, which took place August 28 – 29, 2026.  This race is always scheduled on the last weekend of August. 

The race began at Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood at 3:00 a.m. Friday, August 28, and race starts continued until around 2:00 p.m., because teams had staggered start times depending on the speed of their individual runners, to calculate their arrival at Seaside, on the Pacific Coast of Oregon, almost two hundred miles from Timberline Lodge. The teams had to arrive in Seaside no later than 9:00 p.m. Saturday, August 29, to go on record for having finished the race. 

Volunteers (in yellow reflective vests in the two above photos) worked in 4-hour shifts. Some runners were fast and laser-focused, others smiled and waved to acknowledge cheering fans, some took walking breaks. One man wore a yellow tutu over his running shorts, a woman pulled a purple helium balloon tied to the back of her shorts, and several women had brightened their faces with a little glitter.

This popular event has about 12,600 participants. These are divided into 1,050 teams comprising about 12 runners. The race route is divided into 36 legs, each averaging about 4 to 6 miles. Each runner is assigned to run specific legs.

The teams must organize two vans. Inside the vans, the teams supply necessities such as clothing, flashlights, food and drink, and pillows and light blankets so runners can rest. In addition, there are assigned sleeping and rest fields along the route for runners to sleep between their assigned relay legs.

After the race, a finish line party commences to present awards. The party continues for several days with music along with local vendors. The small town of Seaside normally has a population of about 7,000. During this event, Seaside must accommodate an additional 20,000 visitors.

No wonder this event is called “The Mother of All Relays!”

CATALINA ISLAND--26 MILES ACROSS THE SEA: Geology Field Trip, Guest Post by Paige Arnold

In August, my granddaughter Paige, a geology student at Amherst College, went on a field trip to Catalina Island. On a clear day, Catalina Island is easily visible from the Southern California coast. Yet, in the more than fifty years that I’ve lived in California I’ve never been there! I thank Paige for her excellent report!

This summer I had the opportunity to go to Catalina Island with my professor, his collaborator, and another undergraduate student to do field work relevant to my senior thesis (a year-long research project). We were there for a little under a week, and in that time I got to see some pretty cool stuff– both geology-related and otherwise!

A picture of the USC Wrigley Marine Science Center, where we stayed in dorms for the duration of the trip. We ate breakfast and dinner here, taking a sack lunch to eat in the field (unfortunately, given that sandwiches are not particularly resistant to getting crushed by rocks, they were always pretty soggy by the time we got to them). Otherwise, their food was surprisingly good and they had 24/7 coffee, exceeding my expectations for the dining situation.

For 3 of the 5 days of field work, we drove to the Catalina Airport and looked at/sampled rocks in the surrounding area. There was an airport store behind me where I took this picture, which provided great relief to us in the form of shade, cold Gatorade, and ice cream, during our lunch breaks.

The Catalina landscape is beautiful, but quite unfriendly. A lack of tall trees means no shade, and most of the plants have sharp qualities that inspire fear. Unfortunately, interesting rock outcrops don’t care about sun, spines, and spikes, and are frequently located in places surrounded by these hostile plants (don’t ask about the cactus incident).

Another obstacle between us and the outcrops was the occasional bison (small black dot above the heads in the first photo). Fourteen bison were brought to Catalina for the filming of the 1924 Western The Vanishing American, after which it was determined that removing them from the island would just be too hard, leading to their continued presence on the island today. Despite their intimidating size, they didn’t cause us any problems other than brief moments of panic at rustling sounds in the bushes.

Here is a photo of an outcrop with a couple of the rock types we were focusing on. I won’t go into too much detail, but the big picture idea is that some rocks were part of an old subducting plate, got ripped off the plate in blocks and mixed into a weaker unit of rock, then got real hot and partially melted. In this photo, we’ve inferred that the garnet and hornblende (red and black minerals) are remnants of the original rock that did not melt, while the light minerals are the remnants of melt that did not escape the rock (leucosome). What makes Catalina so special is that these rocks are at the surface (subduction zone rocks very rarely end up at the surface!), allowing us to make direct observations of rocks that were subducted rather than extrapolating from complex geochemical signatures in the corresponding ancient volcanic arc (the Peninsular Ranges).

This is what most of the blocks looked like in the field, though they could range from cat-sized to car-sized. On the rock are our sampling tools– sledgehammer, chisel, and sample bag. Geology can be a brutish science at times.

Check out these cutesy little garnets in a row above my fingers (red dots in white line)! We think these are “peritectic” garnets, meaning they formed along with melt (the white line) as the result of the breakdown of another mineral.

Another one of many beautiful views.

Before Spanish colonizers arrived, Catalina was inhabited by the Tongva, who used the local soapstone (more formally known as talc schist– part of the weaker unit of rock I mentioned earlier) to craft bowls and other cooking ware that they traded along the California coast. This was one of a few soapstone-working sites we passed by on the way to outcrops, where you can see bowls that were never finished still attached to the rock.

In this picture I’m standing on a completely different kind of rock– metamorphosed pillow basalt intruded by blueschist dikes! Despite Catalina’s geology being so varied and complex, we’d been entirely focused on one particular kind of rock up until this day, so it was nice to branch out a little bit and see something new. This picture was taken right after a swimming break in Shark Harbor, which (if you ignore the ominous name) was an amazing place to swim with clear, cool water and waves just high enough to body surf without getting tossed around.

The aforementioned cool, clear water. It made me sad to have to look up from the water and board the ferry back to the mainland, so I took this picture to remember how blue it was.

THE COQUILLE INDIAN TRIBE’S ANNUAL SALMON CELEBRATION (NORTH BEND, OREGON) Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

Bench outside the Ko-Kwel Casino, North Bend, Oregon.

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took the photos in this post in September 2025. Note that the 2026 celebration is September 12-13.

In 2025, the last summer event I attended was the 20th Annual Mill-Luck Salmon Celebration in mid-September. The website promised a free festival showcasing and honoring the Native American Culture of the Coquille (pronounced Ko-Kwel) Tribe, with a traditional salmon bake, drumming, chanting, dancers, flute players, canoe races, cultural booths and displays, hands-on family activities, native arts & crafts vendors, at the casino resort owned by the tribe in North Bend, Oregon.

While walking from the parking lot on one side of the casino to the parking lot on the other side, where the event was set up, I took the photo at the top of this post, of the bench with a carved salmon.

The tribe’s deep cultural and spiritual connection to salmon is rooted in its vital importance to the food supply and survival of the community for thousands of years. The annual return of spawning salmon was worth celebrating by gathering to cook and eat together.

In the name, “Mill-Luck Salmon Celebration,” “Mill” echoes the former name of the resort: the Mill Casino, Hotel and RV Park, which was built on a former sawmill site. “Luck” is what you need to catch fish.

Ko-Kwel is how to pronounce Coquille, the tribe name.

Signs on the hotel building and banners flapping in the wind spelled the tribe name the way it is pronounced, Ko-Kwel. This was in the new name of the business as of 2025, the Ko-Kwel Casino Resort. As I walked beyond the hotel building, booming drumbeats and powerful chants filled the chilly morning air.

Leading the opening prayer.

The festival weekend began with the Opening Prayer, followed by Canoe Races on the waters of Coos Bay, which surround the town of North Bend on three sides as the Coos River winds its way along its estuary to the Pacific Ocean.

The race schedule and Coos Bay.

The canoe race schedule was listed on a banner hanging where spectators would line up along the shore of the bay. I especially wanted to watch the first race, because it was the only one for traditional dugout canoes made from a cedar trunk chunk. Only one such canoe and crew had signed up, so a second, larger, more modern canoe and crew was allowed to enter the contest... to make it more interesting.

The first race begins.

The announcer asked the crews to get on the starting line. That’s when a voice rose from the smaller, dugout canoe. “We have a leak!” One rower pumped like mad, making water shoot out over the side of the craft, but not fast enough to drain it. Abundant, unsolicited advice from the audience included waiting for the water to make the wood swell and seal the leak (which might take as little time as a week) and not worrying about the precious canoe sinking because it would float no matter what, being made of wood.

As soon as the race started, the small canoe began lagging farther and farther behind the big one, eventually taking twice as long to complete the loop. Not one spectator walked away. Everyone stayed to cheer on the little old canoe across the finish line.

Afterwards, I caught some of the Native American dance, drum, and flute stage performances. Meanwhile, elders of the Coquille Tribe sold fry bread, fry bread tacos, and fry bread pizzas under their own tents to raise money for Elders programs. Flint knapping, weaving, and beading demonstrations allowed participation.

The weavers used strips of the inner bark of cedar trees to make hats. In the above photo of the canoe race, two rowers in the smaller canoe were each wearing a different woven hat model.

Staff members prepared salmon to be baked in the fire pit, as seen in this video. 

Salmon cooking.

The salmon pit.

According to the sign on the Salmon Bake Fire Pit, “The Coquille Indians most preferred method of cooking salmon was in a pit using fire, coals, and traditional seasonings, […] seal grease, myrtle leaves, and fruits like huckleberries. The salmon would be sealed in seaweed and mud and placed in a hot fire pit, sometimes cooking the fish overnight or for only a few hours. Today, the Coquille use more convenient seasonings like butter, bay leaves, onion, lemon, salt and pepper.”

Salmon meal tent.

The line for the Salmon Bake Meal started growing well before the start time of 11 a.m., but service was fast because stacks of take-out boxes were ready, one step ahead of sales.

Salmon meal.

Each box contained the following:

- Traditional Pit-Cooked Salmon

- Wild Rice with Cranberries and Grilled Hazelnuts

- Traditional Fry Bread with Huckleberry Jam and Huckleberry Butter

The only choice required of each patron was between a soft drink can, coffee, or water.

After this satisfying lunch, I strolled among a dozen Native craft vendor tables that filled a large tent.

Abalone shell earrings.

Although I thought I didn’t need more favorite earrings, I had to have the above pair, made from abalone shell. I would have loved to chat with the artisan who made them, but he was too busy selling other abalone shell earrings, each pair unique in shape, size, and mother-of-pearl iridescence.

The 21stAnnual Salmon Celebration is scheduled for Saturday and Sunday, September 12 and 13, 2026.

 

DAY TRIP FROM BILBAO, SPAIN: Climbing the Dragonstone Stairs and More, Guest Post by Jennifer Arnold

Gaztelugatxe Island, Spain. Hermitage, including the stairs.

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In June, my daughter Jennifer and a friend took a trip to northern Spain, visiting Bilbao and the surrounding area before going to conference in San Sebastian. While staying in Bilbao they did a day trip to the island of Gaztelugatxe, and to the towns of Mundaka and Gernika. I thank her for sharing her excellent photos and impressions of the trip with The Intrepid Tourist. (This is Part 2 of her report.)

A cross outside the Gaztelugatxe  hermitage with a sign saying “cross year 1891”.

While visiting Bilbao, my friend and I took a guided tour to visit nearby sites on the coast to the north. Our bilingual (Spanish/English) tour guide picked us up at the Guggenheim Museum (which was walking distance from our hotel) and took us by bus.

The first stop was San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Bermeo, a hermitage dedicated to Saint John the Baptist on the tiny island of Gaztelugatxe in the Bay of Biscay. The church is believed to have been first built in the 9^th century, but it has burned down and been re-built several times, most recently in 1886. It sits on an island with an impressive steep stone stairway with 241 steps.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe sign outside the hermitage.

Dragonstone path.

While the hermitage has its own historical and religious significance, it has recently become a popular tourist destination because it was used as the filming site for Dragonstone, a fictional island in the Game of Thrones series. The images in the series are digitally created but the stairs and island are real.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe church.

Our next stop was Mundaca, which is a local fishing village that is well known for surfing. We then went to Gernika, a Basque town (spelled Guernica in Spanish) nearby. Gernika is famous for the terror inflicted by Franco when he sent planes to destroy the town with bombs on April 26, 1937.

The attack is commemorated by Pablo Picasso’s painting “Guernica”, which is currently on view at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid. The Basque government has made a request to bring the painting to the town of Gernika, but the request was denied   At this time you can only see a tile replica of the painting in the town of Gernika.

Tile replica of Picasso’s painting “Guernica”.

Gernika is an important locale for the Basque identity, and has been re-built into a beautiful town. The Basque people live in northeastern Spain and southeastern France, and have their own Basque language (Euskara) that is unrelated to other modern languages. Today the Basque region is identified as an “autonomous community” within Spain.

The town of Gernika, Spain.

The Tree of Gernika, an oak tree that symbolizes the freedom of the Basque people.