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Pre-Incan ruin at Tiwanaku, Bolivia |
With many thanks to our friend Owen Floody for another exceptional contribution to The Intrepid Tourist.
No, I didn’t see Butch Cassidy or the Sundance Kid, but I
did visit the area in which they disappeared on Bolivia!, a June 2024 trip run
by Wilderness Travel and expertly led by Andrea Heckman and Danny Viveros. The trip was challenging due to low temperatures
and high altitudes (9,500-16,400 feet). But
our efforts were repaid by outstanding landscapes and a wide range of
historical and cultural experiences extending from pre-Incan ruins to cutting
edge Bolivian foods and wines.
The tour began in La Paz, where we struggled to adjust to the
altitude and “Incan” slopes and steps.
We soared above the city on its impressive cable-car system and explored
Old Town areas including the Sagarnaja artisan district and “witches’
market.” But the high point was a day at
Tiwanaku, a pre-Incan (peaking in 500-950 AD) ruin between La Paz and Lake
Titicaca.
From La Paz, we flew to Sucre, the main streets of which
were busy hosting an auto race. Our
activities here included visits to the fine ASUR Museum of Indigenous Arts and
Casa de la Libertad, an important site in Bolivia’s struggle for independence. Inspired by the beautiful textiles in the museum,
we escaped the car races by traveling to the nearby town of Maragua, where we
had a delightful visit with a local weaver.
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Silver mining at Potosi, Bolivia. |
From Sucre, a long drive took us to Potosi. The first thing that any visitor to Potosi
notices is the city’s dominance by hulking Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain). This dominance extends far beyond first
impressions. From the 1545 discovery of
silver here, the resulting mines made Potosi rich and bankrolled the Spanish
empire for hundreds of years: In the 16
th – 18
th
centuries, it is estimated that 80% of the world’s silver came from Cerro Rico. Mining continues, though the diminished
return requires effort (note the young miners straining and running) and exacts significant health tolls.
Though the highlight of our stop in Potosi was a visit to a
still-active mine, a close second was a tour of the National Mint. On display here are some of the huge wooden
mule-driven machines used to press silver ingots into sheets for coin stamping. While these and sample products might be
expected at such a site, a lovely chapel and some interesting religious art
were more surprising. Perhaps the most
memorable of the latter was La Virgen del Cerro, a painting in which the
central figure’s shape mimics that of Cerro Rico.
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The Salar (salt flats) |
The next phase of the trip was my favorite. This took us to the Salar de Uyuni and
Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve. The
first is the largest salt flat on earth, extending over 4100 square mi
les. It is flat, flat, flat and white, white,
white, punctuated just occasionally by rocky “islands” that are impossible to
judge for size or distance due to the lack of familiar landmarks. Despite, or perhaps because of,
its uncompromising uniformity, it is a fascinating landscape.
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Laguna Colorado |
Other than the Salar, some of the sites we visited on this
leg included a train “cemetery” in Uyuni, a cave near Colchani containing mummified
human remains dating back many (possibly 3000) years, a field of fancifully
shaped rocks, a thermal area, and a series of colored lakes, some sporting
flamingos. Among the lakes, the most
impressive was the famous Laguna Colorado (Red Lake).
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Night sky, Bolivia |
One of the outstanding characteristics of this area is its
isolation. This reduces light pollution,
making it an ideal site for night-sky photography. I made one such effort from a vantage point just
20 yards from our hotel.
Whether for photography or not, any visitor to this area must step
outside at night and look up!
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Isla del Sol at Lake Titicaca |
Finally, it was on to our last stop, Lake Titicaca. On the way, we enjoyed the blessing of new
cars at the Copacabana cathedral. But
our focus was the lake and its major islands, the Isla del Sol and Isla del
Luna (Islands of the Sun and Moon), both of which offer impressive Incan
ruins. On the Isla del Luna, the major
site is the Temple of the Virgins, dedicated to the Virgins of the Sun. A striking aspect of this is its division
into chambers, each presumed to have been the residence of a woman living on the
island.
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View of Lake Titcaca from Isla del Sol |
The Isla del Sol gave us wonderful (though not always
welcome) exercise: Those Incan steps again.
But it also exposed us to what I thought was the most impressive of the
Incan ruins we encountered. These
included a beautifully constructed road, an altar that may have been the single
holiest site in the Incan empire, and an extensive complex of buildings called
El Laberinto (The Labyrinth). It is hard
to imagine a structure that better combines beauty in structure and location. Apparently, the
Incans appreciated a good view.
So maybe the Incan steps were worth the effort after
all.