DAY TRIP FROM BILBAO, SPAIN: Climbing the Dragonstone Stairs and More, Guest Post by Jennifer Arnold

Gaztelugatxe Island, Spain. Hermitage, including the stairs.

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In June, my daughter Jennifer and a friend took a trip to northern Spain, visiting Bilbao and the surrounding area before going to conference in San Sebastian. While staying in Bilbao they did a day trip to the island of Gaztelugatxe, and to the towns of Mundaka and Gernika. I thank her for sharing her excellent photos and impressions of the trip with The Intrepid Tourist. (This is Part 2 of her report.)

A cross outside the Gaztelugatxe  hermitage with a sign saying “cross year 1891”.

While visiting Bilbao, my friend and I took a guided tour to visit nearby sites on the coast to the north. Our bilingual (Spanish/English) tour guide picked us up at the Guggenheim Museum (which was walking distance from our hotel) and took us by bus.

The first stop was San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Bermeo, a hermitage dedicated to Saint John the Baptist on the tiny island of Gaztelugatxe in the Bay of Biscay. The church is believed to have been first built in the 9^th century, but it has burned down and been re-built several times, most recently in 1886. It sits on an island with an impressive steep stone stairway with 241 steps.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe sign outside the hermitage.

Dragonstone path.

While the hermitage has its own historical and religious significance, it has recently become a popular tourist destination because it was used as the filming site for Dragonstone, a fictional island in the Game of Thrones series. The images in the series are digitally created but the stairs and island are real.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe church.

Our next stop was Mundaca, which is a local fishing village that is well known for surfing. We then went to Gernika, a Basque town (spelled Guernica in Spanish) nearby. Gernika is famous for the terror inflicted by Franco when he sent planes to destroy the town with bombs on April 26, 1937.

The attack is commemorated by Pablo Picasso’s painting “Guernica”, which is currently on view at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid. The Basque government has made a request to bring the painting to the town of Gernika, but the request was denied   At this time you can only see a tile replica of the painting in the town of Gernika.

Tile replica of Picasso’s painting “Guernica”.

Gernika is an important locale for the Basque identity, and has been re-built into a beautiful town. The Basque people live in northeastern Spain and southeastern France, and have their own Basque language (Euskara) that is unrelated to other modern languages. Today the Basque region is identified as an “autonomous community” within Spain.

The town of Gernika, Spain.

The Tree of Gernika, an oak tree that symbolizes the freedom of the Basque people.

 

BILBAO: THE HEART OF SPAIN'S BASQUE COUNTRY, Guest Post by Jennifer Arnold

Bilbao, Spain. View from the River Nervion.

In June, my daughter Jennifer and a friend took a trip to northern Spain, visiting Bilbao and the surrounding area before going to conference in San Sebastian. I thank her for sharing her excellent photos and impressions of her trip with The Intrepid Tourist. This is Part 1 of her report. Part 2 will post next week.

Bilbao, river and bridge.

Before my trip to Bilbao I was told that Bilbao is the best city in the world. After three days visiting, I am inclined to believe it. Bilbao sits near the northern coast of Spain in Basque Country. It is a medium-sized city with a population of 352,000. It’s very densely packed (according to one site, more dense than San Francisco but less than New York). It is beautifully designed, with multiple meticulously-maintained public parks. The beautiful Nervion river runs through it, bordered by pedestrian paths and numerous pedestrian bridges to cross. 

A lion statue on top of a building is a famous site in Bilbao.

It is easy to get around Bilbao on trams, busses, metro or just by walking. We walked almost everywhere so we didn’t try the trams or metro.

Seafood for sale at the mercado de la Ribera; Europe’s largest covered market.

Bilbao is famous for its culinary attractions. Most notable are pintxos (pronounced pinchos) which are tapas (small bites) in the Basque style, often with seafood or ham on bread with other sauces and seasonings. 

Pintxos for sale at the mercado de la Ribera, which also has tables to eat at.

Every bar has pintxos, and a typical evening could include bar hopping to try the specialties of each one.

Pintxos at the Plaza Nueva in Bilbao (famous for its Idiazabal soup from Gure Toki).

Bilbao is also famous for the Guggenheim Museum designed by American architect Frank Gehry, which is itself a piece of architectural art.  The museum has a collection of masterpieces from around the world, and also hosts visiting shows.

Jennifer outside the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao.

In a three-day visit, we went to the Guggenheim Museum, rode the funicular, saw the Santiago Cathedral, and took a day trip to see the towns of Gaztelugatche, Mundaka and Guernica (see my post next week). But much of our time was spent seeing the city on foot, enjoying the unique architecture and food.

The Puerta del Angel (Angel’s Gate) at the Bilbao Cathedral.

View of Bilbao from the hill after taking the funicular Artxanda.

1.      

NIAGARA FALLS STATE PARK: More Than Just Tumbling Torrents

Niagara Falls. View from the American side, looking toward the Canadian side of the river.

Welcome sign on Old Falls Street.

If the ancient Greeks had known about Niagara Falls, they would have added it to their list of Seven Wonders of the World. The sheer quantity of water—75,000 gallons per sec pouring over the edge--is impressive enough, not to mention the giant clouds of mist rising from the bottom of the gorge as the water lands.

The falls are formed as water from the Niagara River, which separates the United States from Canada as it makes its way from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, plunges into a deep gorge. 

Observation point on Goat Island of Horseshoe Falls.

In mid-July I joined the millions of visitors that come each year from all over the world to gaze in wonder at the falls. My husband was attending a conference in the Niagara Falls Convention Center on the American side. While he was at meetings, I had time to wander through the city of Niagara Falls and explore the park. I had my passport and could have crossed over the Rainbow Bridge to the Canadian side but decided not to on this trip because I had been there before. 

View from Goat Island of American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, viewing tower, and Rainbow Bridge.

Niagara Falls State Park borders the falls on the American side. The 435-acre New York state park was developed in 1885 by American artist Frederick Church and Frederick Law Olmstead, the landscape architect who also designed Central Park in New York City. He believed that natural spaces like Niagara Falls should be preserved for people to enjoy. The park includes miles of walking paths, beautiful gardens, as well as plenty of viewing and seating areas. It is also an opportunity for bird watching and other wildlife viewing. 

Scale model of Niagara river and falls, and Goat Island.

A scale model near the Welcome Center shows Goat Island, the two main cataracts, American Falls and Horseshoe Falls, and the smaller Bridal Veil Falls. A short pedestrian bridge connects Goat Island to the American side of the river. Paths on Goat Island lead to viewing points for all the falls. 

Hop-on, Hop-off trams are available to take people around the park.

The Welcome Center near the main entrance to the park has exhibits, restrooms, a cafe and gift shop.

I started my Niagara Falls visit at the Welcome Center near the entrance to the state park where there are displays highlighting the history of the area, beginning with the Native Americans who lived there long before the first Europeans came.

Acknowledgment is made that the park is on traditional indigenous lands.

There are also sections about Father Hennepin, who came with French fur traders, and Nikola Tesla, a major figure in the history of Niagara Falls. Tesla was the engineer who, along with George Westinghouse, figured out how to harness the energy of the falls to make electricity.

Statue of Nikola Tesla on Goat Island.

One can view Niagara Falls from both the American side Canadian sides of the river.

Maid of the Mist boat takes people to the base of the falls.

I limited myself to standing at the railing and looking at the falls from above. But many people take the Maid of the Mist boat ride for a close-up look at the base of the falls, wearing raincoats to keep dry as the boat gets close to the mist. 

A tether keeps the hot-air balloon from floating away.

Others view from a bridge over the water. And some go up in a hot air balloon. If you do this at night in the summer, you can see a light show and fireworks over the falls. (We could see and hear the fireworks from our hotel window.)

Along tree-lined Old Falls Street, which leads to the entrance of the park, visitors can enjoy giant chess boards, ping pong and other games.

Historical marker on Old Falls Street.

The city of Niagara Falls is designed for tourists with hotels, restaurants, and entertainment, all within walking distance of the state park. Reflecting the scope of international visitors, a wide range of eateries--including many featuring South Asian cuisines-- line the main street. 

Main gate of Niagara Falls State Park.

Within the park one can get around by walking, riding a bike, or taking a tram. Entrance to Niagara Falls State Park is free.

Thirty years ago, I visited Niagara Falls with my family, viewing the falls from the Canadian side. We went down an elevator to a path that allowed us to walk behind the falls. We stood on the walkway as the water roared past us, awing us with its power. On this trip I was no less impressed.

Map of Niagara Falls State Park.

For more information go to the Niagara Falls State Park website. 

FROM FOG TO SUNSHINE: A Hike on Mount Tamalpais, Marin County, CA

Viewpoint of San Francisco Bay at top of Mount Tamalpais, Marin County, CA

The redwoods arched high above us, shrouded in fog so thick it almost felt like rain. It had an ethereal quality, as if we had entered a fairytale. And although it was mid-July, we wore two layers of jackets to keep warm. We were at the Pantoll Ranger Station picnic area in Mount Tamalpais State Park in Marin County, California. just across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco. (We had come to the park across the Richmond/San Rafael Bridge, about a 40 minute drive from Oakland.)

Redwood forest at Pantoll Campground, Mt. Tamalpais State Park.

After eating our sandwiches, we set out on a short hike on the Old Mine trail, one of a number of trails that begin at the Pantoll parking area. 

Start of Old Mine trail.

Moss at start of Old Mine trail.

The trail, mostly level, winds through the forest, hugging the hillside. The damp environment is perfect for mosses and ferns covering the forest floor. Little by little the fog began to lift.

A wooden bridge crosses a seasonal creek on the Old Mine Trail.

About a quarter of a mile along the trail we passed a sign that marks the spot where miners had once staked a claim, hoping to find gold. (They didn’t.)

Coastal hills and fog over the Pacific. View from end of Old Mine Trail.

As we got nearer to the end of the Old Mine trail where it intersects with the Dipsea Trail, the trees began to thin to open space and we found ourselves at an overlook of the coastal hills. 

The Veterans' Bench at the end of the Old Mine trail provides a place to rest and a view of the coastal hills.

But on the day of our hike, the famous San Francisco fog still shrouded the coast so the water of the Pacific wasn’t visible. However, the sun was beginning to come out the sky turning blue. 

We spotted a flock of wild turkeys on the hillside behind the Veterans' Bench and walked up a narrow trail for a closer look. 

After a short rest to admire the view, we turned around and retraced our steps. The total distance of the Old Mine Trail hike is one mile. By the time we returned to the Pantoll parking lot the sky was blue, the trees were no longer surrounded by mist and it was time to take our sweaters off. 

We got back in our car and continued up the narrow, curvy road to the top of the mountain. There, after parking near the Visitor Center, we followed the path a short distance to the overlook. The view is spectacular! 

Bridge to overlook of Bay Area.

Looking East past Tiburon and Angel Island to the hills of Oakland on the other side of San Francisco Bay.

At 2571 feet--the highest peak in the San Francisco Bay area--Mount Tamalpais dominates the Marin skyline. For 37 years my parents looked up at Mount Tamalpais every day from the windows of their house in Mill Valley. Some days it was covered in fog; other days bathed in sunshine; occasionally, on a cold winter day, it would be dusted in snow. Over the years during my visits to Mill Valley we made many excursions to the park. It is still one of my favorite places in the Bay Area to enjoy the outdoors.

Numerous hiking trails begin at Pantoll Ranger Station.

Ferns growing on tree bark.

ON THE VIKING TRAIL (PART 2 of 2) - SCANDINAVIAN MUSEUMS Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took the photos in this post in June and July 2025. 

Roskilde (R), Denmark (D). Stockholm (St), Sweden (S). Oslo (O), Norway (N).

This second and last post on Viking history is about visiting three relevant museums, in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. Part 1 appeared last week.

THE VIKING SHIP MUSEUM IN DENMARK

Less than an hour drive or ride in public transportation from Copenhagen, what is left of five ships, after a thousand years under seawater, is expertly displayed at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde. The website tells the impressive story of the excavation, and provides details about each original ship and its present-day replica.

Ship.

Archeologists believe that local Vikings intentionally sunk decrepit ships in a fjord channel to form a barrier, to protect their town, Roskilde, from enemy attacks. Piles of debris embedded in the sea floor contained the remains of a fishing boat, a small coastal trader (above photo) that could carry up to four tons of cargo, a large ocean-going cargo ship, and two speedy longships to carry warriors into battle, up to 70 armed men in the larger vessel.

Scientists determined not only what kind of wood the ships were made of (pine, oak…), but where they were made (the location in Norway or Ireland…), where else the big cargo ship stopped for repairs, and that two of the ships were sunk 20 years after the first three. In the museum, the original wooden planks are mounted on the appropriate boat skeletons, made of metal strips.

Model of above ship.

Tabletop models show what the ship once looked like.

We didn’t ride, row, or sail in the replicas floating in the harbor, or watch boatbuilders, sailmakers, ropemakers, or the blacksmith at work. But seeing the museum ships on a tour guided by a costumed archeologist gave us insights into Viking society.

The different specialized ships hint at the fact that not all Vikings were warriors. Most Vikings were farmers. Some were traders, others fearless explorers. They relied on genius shipbuilders and specialized craftspersons. Warriors were a minority and they went on raids only part of the year.  But even farmers used boats to move cows between pastures, and to bring goods to and from markets, because it was easier to travel over water, including by sled when it was frozen solid, than land.

Over time, better ships carried more load, faster and farther: warriors, for swifter, deadlier raids and conquests. Explorers searching for new lands and resources. Traders seeking greater wealth and larger networks. From their Nordic homelands, Vikings spread east, west, and south. It is easy to imagine Vikings enamored with their ships, often referred to as “sea-steeds” or “wave-horses” in Norse poems.

THE VIKING WORLD IN SWEDEN

In Stockholm, the Swedish History Museum’s Viking World is the world’s largest Viking exhibition. The website offers online exploration of this exhibition, with hi-res photos better than the one below, articles, old Norse myths, and stories of Viking age people, including children. The best webpage for a virtual visit has buttons by theme, such as “Family and hierarchy,” leading to sub-themes, leading to more info and hi-res photos of many objects.

On site, in the courtyard, a staff blacksmith had visiting children pumping the bellows. Some visitors shot arrows, others played a Viking board game. Staff bakers made flatbread on a griddle for us to taste with butter, honey, and cumin or fennel seeds. The Vikings made rye or spelt flatbread, but only on special occasions or perhaps as grave gifts. Their daily meals included porridge, meat, fish, and vegetables.

Inside, we followed a stellar tour guide, an archeologist, before wandering independently through the exhibition for hours.

Keys.

I love Viking keys. They unlocked chests or cupboards containing valuables, and hung like pendants on necklaces around the neck of the woman who was the head of the household. They symbolized her authority and power. She ran and controlled the place. Today, replicas are widely available and hugely popular in Scandinavian museum shops.

THE VIKING AGE EXHIBITION IN NORWAY

The Oslo Norwegian Historical Museum’s Viking Age Exhibition webpage links to a 17-minute video Guided Tour with Closed Caption available in English. Displayed in 19 glass cases were some of the finest Viking objects found in Norway. This exhibition was smaller than the Viking World in Stockholm, Sweden, yet just as interesting.

Treasure.

Above, Norway’s largest Viking gold treasure, the Hon Hoard. It was found in 1834 by a farmer digging a ditch. Dating from the 800s, it includes more than 2.5 kilograms (over 2.5 lbs) of gold. With gold necklaces, Frankish jewelry, Arabian coins, North African beads, a Roman gemstone, and an English ring, “The hoard is a reflection of Viking journeys and contacts.” At its greatest, the world of the Vikings stretched from today’s Iran to today’s Canada, and from the North Atlantic to the Mediterranean and North Africa.

The photo at the top of this post shows the best preserved Viking helmet ever found anywhere, the Gjermundbu Helmet. It was found on a farm, in the grave of an elite equestrian warrior surrounded by numerous weapons and abundant gear. Note the absence of horns on the helmet. Horns on Viking helmets exist only in popular culture.

 This temporary exhibition ends in December 2026. The objects will move permanently to the new Museum of the Viking Age when it opens in 2027.

Across the different places we visited, our expert guides agreed that Víkingr, the Old Norse word for Viking, was what people called themselves—but not all Norse people--only seafaring warriors and travelers. ”Vik” meant “bay” and a Viking went about his business in a bay, sailing or crewing a boat. “Viking” was an occupation, like “farmer” or “archeologist.” Now, the word Viking refers to anyone of Norse origin who lived during the Viking Age (~750-1050).