The author with an axe to cut quiche and a sword as a toothpick. Photo by husband Viljam Glennsson. Viking costume, weapons, and picnic table courtesy of the Saga Centre (Hvolsvöllur, Iceland). |
Before
my first visit to Iceland in 2007, I had long been fond of its first
inhabitants, the Vikings—those formidable, endearing brutes. But I had not yet read
their stories, the Icelandic Sagas, widely considered gems of world literature.
They are set long ago when Iceland resembled America’s Wild West, and the
Viking settlers’ idea of exercise was to go around skewering neighbors. The
Sagas are family oral histories written down a few centuries after they had
happened. Scholars speculate that following generations of deft storytellers,
the anonymous recorders captured optimized history.
Today in the south of Iceland, the setting of Njál’s Saga. |
After
returning home in 2007, I learned that one of the most famous Icelandic Sagas
is Njál’s Saga (Njála in Icelandic, also known as The Story of
Burnt Njál [pronounced nyahl]). I devoured the English version and
loved it. This epic lawyering novel is set around the year 1000 CE in the south
of Iceland. It’s about Njál Þorgeirsson of Bergþórshvoll and Gunnar Hámundarson
of Hlíðarendi, who were very good friends. Unfortunately, their wives were
anything but. It was between them that the trouble began. One mean wife ordered
the killing of a servant of the other wife’s, the other wife returned the favor,
and the next thing they knew, the whole situation snowballed into decades of
bloodshed.
The
story delivers (in alphabetical order) affronts to family honor, ambushes,
battles, betrothals, dead bodies, deceit, grievances, matings, mediation,
revenge, and much, much more, against a backdrop of historic commotion—the
conversion of Iceland from Norse paganism to Christianity. The English
version of Njál’s Saga is available
online, easy to read, fascinating, heartbreaking, and haunting.
The
Viking world, the context of the sagas, as shown at the Saga Centre in
Hvolsvöllur, Iceland. The Vikings sailed from Norway to Iceland, Greenland, and
America.
|
A
great way to learn more about Njál’s Saga is by visiting the Saga Centre in
Hvolsvöllur in the south of Iceland where the story takes place. I jumped at
the chance in 2019, during my second trip to Iceland. The Centre's
exhibits introduce Njál’s Saga’s characters and plot in the context of
the Viking world. Once educated, I borrowed a costume and toy sword, axe,
shield, and helmet, to defend my picnic. The Saga Centre is located an easy
hour-and-a-half drive from Reykjavik via the excellent
Ring Road that loops all around Iceland. The Centre is one of the
milestones on the multicountry Saga Trail .
The
Saga Centre is also the home of the Njala (Njál’s Saga) Tapestry. Contemporary
Icelandic creators dreamed it up. It is reminiscent of the world famous Bayeux
Tapestry, which is a 70-meter long, 50-centimeter tall, embroidered cloth that
depicts the conquest of England in the year 1066 by William, Duke of Normandy.
The Njala Tapestry, which depicts Njál’s Saga, consists of 90
meters by 50 centimeters of linen in the process of being embroidered with
Icelandic, plant-dyed wool yarn.
The
project is unusual in that anyone can pick up a needle and help. I would have loved
to learn the Bayeux stitch used to embroider the tapestry, but we visited on a
Sunday when the sewing room was closed. Before leaving town, I consulted a map
highlighting nearby locations identified in Njál’s Saga.
Njál and his friends and foes bonded
and bled in settings like this one.
|
The saga’s characters lived on
farmsteads spread across a landscape that looked much as it still does today.
Njál’s Saga mentions Keldur where this farm, now a museum, is located. In 2019, drought associated with climate change killed roof sod that had naturally stayed lush for centuries. |
One
character, an uncle of Njál’s illegitimate son, lived at Keldur, where the Keldur Farm Museum is located, a
15-minute drive from Hvolsvöllur. The turf buildings are the oldest of their
kind still standing in Iceland. They were lived in, added on, and “updated”
into the 1900s, though they remained rustic.
Some
seven hundred years ago, Vikings were immortalized in the Icelandic Sagas.
Today, you can visit many of the sites where their lives unfolded, and stand
where they once fought literal and legal battles. Of all the sagas, Njál’s
Saga is the only one set in the south of Iceland, where I can’t seem to get
enough of the stunning, dramatic scenery.
FOR
MORE INFO
Links
to more about Njal’s Saga.
The contemporary Icelandic women who dreamed up the Njala Tapestry project are Gunnhildur Edda Kristjánsdóttir and Christina M. Bengtsson. They contacted Kristín Ragna Gunnarsdóttir, an artist and literary scholar, who designed the pictures.
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