A PERSONAL GUIDE TO TUCSON, ARIZONA, Part 2: Guest Post by Paul Justison

 

Goddess of Agave, painted by Rock "Cyfi" Martinez, 2017, Tucson, AZ 

With many thanks to my friend Paul Justison for his excellent guide to the city of Tucson, posted here in two parts--Part 1, last week and Part 2, this week. Paul is the author of the well received novel Lost and Found in the 60s (Unsolicited Press, 2022.)

What to see — Science and technology 

During the cold war, Tucson was a one of the main launching pads for nuclear attacks on the Soviet Union. Davis-Monthan Air base was adjacent to the city and housed nuclear armed B-52 bombers. It was also surrounded by 18 silos that held nuclear armed missiles. They are all decommissioned now. One of them is now a museum, and even I, an antiwar peacenik, found the tour fascinating. Home | Titan Missile Museum It’s about 30 minutes south of town. And since you’ve gone that far, you might consider two places about 25 minutes further south. Tumacácori is the site of a precontact Native American trading center. The Jesuits and Franciscans built missions there, and the fairly intact remains of the Franciscan mission are the core of the Tumacácori National Historical Park (U.S. National Park Service) . The buildings are rather austere and together with the exhibits give you a good impression of what precontact and mission life was like. Nearby is Tubac, a little town filled with arts and crafts shops and one fun Mexican restaurant — Elvira’s Restaurant Tubac, Arizona Reservations are advised.

About ten minutes southeast of town in the Pima Air and Space Museum Home — Pima Air & Space . It houses 400 or so historic aircraft outdoors and in hangars. If you’re into planes, this should be on your list.

On the University of Arizona campus is the Flandrau Planetarium Home | Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium . The shows in the planetarium are fun and educational. Before you go, read on the site above about parking.

The SunLink Streetcar and Neighborhoods/Shopping/Nightlife –

Bahti Indian Arts Tucson — Bahti Indian Arts is one of the best shops in the nation for native American arts and crafts. It’s in the Barrio Historico which is itself worth a walk or a drive around. Barrio Historico Tucson Is One Of Arizona’s Oldest Neighborhoods

Tucson has a free modern streetcar that runs through most of the interesting areas in the center of the town — Sun Link Streetcar — Sun Tran One end is near the Banner University Medical Center at the corner of Helen and Warren, and about a 10 block walk from the Arizona Inn. From there it runs along the northern and western sides of the U of A — and very near the photography museum and the Flandrau planetarium. It then heads along the commercially hip area — Fourth Avenue, where there’s a nice bookstore — Antigone Books , along with many shops and restaurants. Next it goes downtown, the center for Tucson’s nightlife. Last, it ends at the Mercado San Agustin — What’s Here — Mercado District

A few words about nightlife and restaurants –

As I mentioned in the introduction, UNESCO has declared Tucson a “City of Gastronomy.” If you’re a Reddit user, go to r/Tucson and search for restaurant types, or simply start your own thread with a question. You will likely get many helpful responses. Also, the Tucson Weekly: The Best of Tucson, News, and Everything That Matters is a great resource for the ever-changing nightlife scene.

Photo Credit — Goddess of Agave — When In Your State

Paul has previously published A Personal Guide to Tucson, Arizona, on the web at Medium.

A PERSONAL GUIDE TO TUCSON, AZ, Part 1: Guest post by Paul Justison

Goddess of Agave, painted by Rock "Cyfi" Martinez, 2017, Tucson, AZ 

With many thanks to my friend Paul Justison for his excellent guide to the city of Tucson, posted here in two parts--Part 1, this week and Part 2, next week. Paul is the author of the novel Lost and Found in the 60s (Unsolicited Press, 2022.)

I spent my formative years in Tucson and go back often, because it’s special in many ways. Tucson sits in a high Sonoran Desert valley surrounded by mountains. The Catalinas to the north will command your attention. Many cultures have thrived here — Yaqui, Tohono O’odham, Spanish, Mexican, and after the USA bought the area from Mexico in 1848 — Anglo-Americans. Politically it tends to be left of center. When the Arizona legislature passed a bill that discriminated against Mexican Americans, the local — Pima County — sheriff refused to implement it. And today Tucson honors the Native American and Mexican food traditions for which it was recognized by UNESCO as a “City of Gastronomy.”

When to Go

It can get hot. Dry heat, but really hot — high 90s to low 100s. October through April is best with rarely cold and usually cool to mild temperatures, though early October and late April can still be quite warm. There’s still plenty to do and see in the summer, and hotels will be far less expensive. Just be prepared for serious heat.

Where to Stay

Tucson has accommodations in all types and price ranges, from luxury dude ranches, health and golf resorts to budget motels and B&Bs. I have one favorite and almost always stay there — the Arizona Inn — A Historic Boutique Hotel Retreat in Tucson | Arizona Inn . Linda Ronstadt, who grew up in Tucson, called it her favorite hotel in the world 5 Places to Visit in Tucson, Arizona, With Singer Linda Ronstadt — The New York Times . To me, the Inn is an oasis of beauty, calm, and exceptional food.

What to see — Natural environment

Undoubtedly the best place to learn about the plants and animals of the Sonoran Desert is The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum — Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, AZ — Zoo, Botanical Garden and Art Gallery . It’s an aquarium, botanical garden, natural history museum, and zoo all rolled into one fascinating experience. The roughly 10-mile drive west from downtown will take you through foothills sprinkled with houses, over Gates Pass and down into a sahuaro cactus-filled valley. You will always remember your visit.

There are three great places to hike or wander around the desert. First, Sabino Canyon is about 10 miles northeast of the center of town. What makes this canyon so popular is both the almost always flowing waterfalls and the marvelous collection of massive boulders deposited throughout the canyon by an 1888 earthquake. It’s a popular place to visit, so you’ll have to park and take a shuttle to the hiking trails or just ride the shuttle to and from the lot. Coronado National Forest — Sabino Canyon Recreation Area

Second and third are the two Sahuaro National Park sites, one east and one west of town — Saguaro National Park (U.S. National Park Service) . Both have many hiking trails to get you into the desert and up onto viewing platforms. Unlike Sabino though, there will rarely be flowing water.

Lastly, in mid-town, you’ll find the Tucson Botanical Garden. If you can’t make it to the Desert Museum, this is a reasonable alternative for learning about desert plants, and it has a fun butterfly exhibit to walk through. Tucson Botanical Gardens — Your Urban Oasis in the heart of Tucson

What to see — Art

One of my favorite small museums in the world is the Center for Creative Photography — About CCP | Center for Creative Photography It houses the archives of Ansel Adams and many other renowned photographers. Of interest to casual photographers and art lovers are the exhibitions they regularly host. I’ve seen exhibitions of Linda McCartney and Louis Carlos Bernal here. Well worth your time and it’s free, though check their calendar for sometimes they are between exhibits.

About a ¼ of a mile away on foot is the Arizona State Museum, which has a fine collection of Native American basketry, jewelry and pottery. Unfortunately, it’s closed for renovations until late 2026. Their website has much of the collection online and updates on the renovations. Home | Arizona State Museum

There are so many spectacular murals all over town that there are websites devoted to cataloguing them. Here are a few of those. The Tucson Murals Project ; 100+ murals in Tucson, plus a map | tucson life | tucson.com ; Tucson Murals If you’re interest in the murals. Peruse one or more of the above and then go on a mural hunting tour. If you’re short on time, I have two suggestions. My absolute favorite mural is the All Souls Procession by Susan Kay Johnson. It actually has an entry in the Library of Congress — Colorful Tucson, Arizona, is a city replete with murals, including several of gigantic proportions. Here, a portion of the All Souls Procession mural by local artist Susan Kay Johnson — original digital file | Library of Congress It takes up the entire block of 9th Avenue between University and 4th Street. And while you’re there, walk or drive slowly around the neighborhood. For it’s one of many quirky Tucson neighborhoods.

Two of the most monumentally spectacular murals are in sight of each other, but they are separated by one of the geometrically weirdest intersections, so take care in getting to them. The official address of the Goddess of Agave is 440 N. 7th Avenue which is Benjamin Plumbing Supply. Put that address in your GPS and park in their lot, but please not in one of the close in customer spots unless you are also looking for plumbing parts. Benjamin Supply also has a description of the mural on their website — Benjamin Supply — Tucson-AZ — but ignore the 6th street address. There’s no access to parking from that address. From that lot you can also see another spectacular mural — Epic Ride. Here’s the story behind that mural and two others These are Joe Pagac’s favorite murals he’s created in Tucson | tucson life | tucson.com

Photo Credit — Goddess of Agave — When In Your State

Paul has previously published A Personal Guide to Tucson, Arizona, on the web at Medium.

REMEMBERING WILL ROGERS’ STABLES – Lost in the Palisades Fire, Los Angeles, CA, Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

Will Rogers' Stables and Horses, circa 1930s, Los Angeles, CA.

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took these photos in the 2010s, during the many years when she spent time at the park with horses, for joy and fitness.

“A man that don’t love a horse, there is something the matter with him.”—Will Rogers, cowboy, humorist, movie star and commentator of the 1920s and 1930s. He had a ranch near Los Angeles. After he died, his widow Betty donated it to the State of California to be enjoyed as a public park and as a memorial to him. It became Will Rogers State Historic Park.

In a recent post  on this blog Caroline Arnold described how the devastating 2025 Palisades Fire in Los Angeles, California, destroyed buildings in the park, including the house and stables. As she wrote, “They remain only in pictures and in our memories.”

Will Rogers' Stables, 2013, lost in 2025.

Here are some pictures and memories of Will Rogers’ stables. They looked to me mostly like in the historic photo (at the top of this blog post), which was displayed inside the stables’ central rotunda.

When I first came to the park in the late 1900s, horses lived in the stables, so those were not open to visitors. Later on, the use of the stables ended in order to preserve the building and it was opened to the general public.

For years, I went to the park to read, write, hike, carry a full pack up the trails to train for summer backpack trips in the Sierra Nevada, and best of all, to spend happy times horseback riding in lessons or on trails, and volunteering to help children with special needs benefit from Therapeutic Horseback Riding under the guidance of specially-certified instructor Tami Leevan. I often walked through the stables and paused the passage of time to listen for echoes from the past.

Just outside the stables.

The above sign, in front of the stables, survived the fire. It marks the graves of two of Will Rogers’ favorite horses, Bootlegger and Soapsuds.

Posted in the stables.

Corridor inside the stables.

View of rotunda in the stables.

Will Rogers.

Four large doors (on the rotunda front and back, and at the ends of the left and right wings) gave access to 24 stalls and two restrooms, each with a flush toilet and a bathroom-type sink.

View from inside the rotunda, 2014.

Arena, stables, pasture, 2014.

Visitors on a guided trail ride, 2018.

Far from being a lifeless place haunted by the ghosts of horses and the humans who loved them, the equestrian facility was kept vibrant by passionate users. Westside Riding School, the concessionaire operating the business inside the state park from 2006 to 2021, offered riding lessons and trail rides. In the above photos, a young student rides a well-loved lesson horse, bareback; a teen student competes at the annual school show; and one-time visitors enjoy a guided trail ride to Inspiration Point and back. A different concessionaire was in business until the 2025 fire. Equestrian visitors were welcome to bring their own horses to the park for day-use of the riding and roping arenas, and trail to Inspiration Point.

Westside Riding School. 10th Anniversary photo (by B. Hatton), posed like the historic photo.

On the 10^th anniversary of Westside Riding School, owner Dorte Lindegaard Wolf (7th from the right in the above color photo) led students (including me, the author of this post, 5th from the left) and friends to pose with school horses, like in the historic photo.

Polo practice.

Events at the park included polo matches, with practice sessions in the few days before.

This was my happy place for many years. Some of my absolute best horse memories are from there. The time a kind horse named Doc carried me bareback at a gentle gallop, up the trail to Inspiration Point. How years of helping children with special needs gave me an idea for a children’s story, which got published in a magazine. The friendships and connections with humans and horses. No wildfire can erase the memories of the countless people who found happiness at the park.

FOR MORE INFO

 Read Caroline Arnold’s 2020 post about Will Rogers State Historic Park. 

MARY CASSATT AT WORK, Legion of Honor Art Museum, San Francisco, CA

A Kiss for Baby Ann, No. 3, 1897, pastel by Mary Cassatt. Legion of Honor Art Museum, San Francisco, CA.

Mary Cassatt, known for her sensitive paintings of women and children, was both the only American artist and only woman artist to exhibit with the Impressionists. In a stunning exhibit at the Legion of Honor Art Museum in San Francisco, the breadth of her work is displayed—drawings, prints, oil paintings and lustrous pastels. 

Woman in a Black Hat and Raspberry Pink Costume (detail), pastel, ca. 1905.

In December, when I was in the Bay Area, I went to the exhibit with my family. Although I was familiar with some of the paintings from my art history classes in college and from visits to other museums, I had never had the opportunity to see so many pieces up close and to appreciate Mary Cassatt’s work over the span of her lifetime (1844-1926).

Under the Lamp, aquatint and soft ground etching, 1883.

Before entering the galleries, we prepared ourselves by watching an excellent video playing in a room just inside the ticket area. (Timed tickets are required to see the exhibit.) In the video we learned about Mary Cassatt’s background as the daughter of a wealthy Philadelphia family. Like many young women of the time, she attended to art school. But unlike other young women who went on to become matrons of society, Mary Cassatt was determined to become a successful professional artist. She moved to Paris and pursued her career there. She never married.

At the Loge, 1878.

In the video, selected pieces of art were discussed by experts. We learned, for instance, to look carefully at the painting of the woman at the opera to see the gentlemen in the opposite box just as intently looking at her!

Portrait of Mrs. Robert S. Cassatt, the Artist's Mother, ca 1885. 

We also learned about Mary Cassatt’s relationships with her family, who initially disapproved of her art career. Later they joined her in France. Her mother and sister appear in some of her paintings.  Mary Cassatt also used paid models for her work.

Clarissa, Turned Right with her Hand to her Ear, 1890-1893, Pastel.

Detail.

While much of Mary Cassatt’s work is in oil paint, many of her most vibrant portraits are drawn with pastels. The advantage of pastels is that the color is pure pigment, not diluted with oil or another medium. A close-up look at her pastels reveals the freedom and looseness of the strokes and shimmer of the overlapping color. In contrast, the faces of her figures are more carefully modeled.

Prints, dry point and color aquatint.

I had not previously appreciated Mary Cassatt’s skill as a printmaker. In the exhibit we see examples of dry point engravings as well as aquatint prints. Cassatt believed that printmaking was the ultimate instructor in drawing. She said, "That is what teaches one to draw."

Family Group Reading (detail), 1898.

Many of the Impressionists focused on outdoor scenes in their paintings and worked in "plein air". While most of Mary Cassatt's art depicts of interior scenes, in some cases, as in Family Group Reading, she places her figures in an outdoor setting.

On a Balcony, 1878-79.

The most impressive thing about Mary Cassatt’s depictions of people is the expressions on the faces. She manages to capture their inner feelings and interpersonal connections. In Mother About to Wash a Sleepy Child, we sense the tenderness between mother and baby.

Mother About to Wash her Sleepy Child, 1880.

On the day of our visit, after viewing Mary Cassatt at Work, we ate a tasty lunch in the museum cafe, and then explored the permanent collection in the main floor galleries, ending in the room with paintings by Mary Cassatt's comrades in art--Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, Pissarro, Degas. Mary Cassatt at Work is an enlightening exhibit.  I gained a new appreciation of her as an innovator. I saw a talented woman who was determined to forge a career at a time when women were not encouraged to do so. If you don't get to see the Mary Cassatt exhibit at the Legion of Honor before it closes January 26, 2025, there are many other museums where you can see her work.

The Long Gloves, 1886. Pastel.

REMEMBERING WILL ROGERS’ HOUSE-- Lost in the Palisades Fire, Los Angeles, CA

Will Rogers' House, Will Rogers State Historic Park, Los Angeles, CA.

“I never met a man I didn’t like.”—Will Rogers, cowboy, humorist, film star and commentator of the 1920s and 1930s.  He was a quintessential American.

Will Rogers’ house in Will Rogers State Park in Los Angeles, California, was one of the many victims of the recent catastrophic Palisades wildfire, which burned more than 23,000 acres and destroyed more than 1000 homes. It is gone forever. The park, with its historic house, horse stables, polo field, picnic area and hiking trails has been a favorite place to visit during the almost fifty years I have lived in Southern California. I loved the exhibits in the Visitor Center and the black and white films of Will Rogers doing rope tricks for the movies and telling jokes as a popular public speaker and commentator. I loved the guided tours of his home, filled with artifacts of his life—his saddle, colorful blankets, sculptures, and comfortable furniture. Every volunteer docent had their own stories to tell of Will Rogers and his family as they led the tour through the rooms of the house. I loved watching polo players on the field in front of the house. I loved hiking on the trails past the horse barns and corrals up to Inspiration Point, with its spectacular 360 degree view—from the Pacific Ocean to downtown Los Angeles. The wildflowers and native shrubs in the park will grow back in time, but the house and mementos of Will Rogers’ life can never be replaced. They remain only in pictures and our memories.

I have written about Will Rogers’ State Park twice on this blog, in March 2014 and June 2020. I am reposting here my report from 2014. 

Will Rogers House, Will Rogers State Park

When I have visitors in Los Angeles, one of my favorite places to take them is Will Rogers State Historic Park, the former home of the famous cowboy, humorist, film star and commentator of the 1920s and 1930s.  Tucked into the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains just north of Sunset Boulevard, the ranch style home looks out over a broad lawn (once used by Will’s friends to practice golf) and a large field where Will and his friends played polo. The field is still used for weekend matches and occasionally we take a picnic and sit on the sidelines and watch. A short walk from the house leads to the stables where Will once kept his horses.  According to Will, “A man that don’t love a horse, there is something the matter with him.” Today one can go for horse riding lessons and trail rides in the park.

Horses in one of the corrals

On a recent Sunday when my brothers were in town, we spent an afternoon at the park.  We began at the small museum adjacent to the house.  People of our parents' generation have fond memories of listening to Will Rogers on the radio, seeing him in movies, and reading his newspaper columns, but for most of us today Will Rogers is a historical figure. Will was born in 1879 of Cherokee and European descent. He was raised on a ranch in Oklahoma where he learned to ride and rope, skills that led him to perform in Wild West shows, and eventually brought him to Hollywood. He died in an airplane crash in Alaska in 1935. In the museum are photographs and exhibits and a wonderful video showing his amazing rope tricks and clips from some of his speeches. 

At Christmas time the house is decorated by volunteers

Thursday through Sunday, volunteers lead free tours of Will Rogers’ house, providing an opportunity to see his collection of Western art, hear some of the many stories about his life, and get a sense of the casual and comfortable style of life he preferred.  Despite his fame and wealth, Will did not live the glamorous life of other movie stars of the time. Instead, he entertained with casual barbecues and sing-a-longs and decorated his house in a homey, ranch style. 

View of Los Angeles from Inspiration Point, Will Rogers State Park

After our tour we set out for a walk on the loop trail up to Inspiration Point.  Following the dirt path past the stables, we wound our way uphill.  As we passed the corrals, a few friendly horses came over for a pat on the nose. Although the trail is not strenuous, I chose to loop the other way and met the rest of the group on their way back down.  I have been to the top many times and the view of the city and Pacific Ocean is impressive.

Will Rogers lived on the ranch from 1926 to 1935

Perhaps Will Rogers’ most famous quip was: “I never met a man I didn’t like.” His house and ranch reflect his generous spirit and love of the outdoors. After Will Rogers died, his daughter donated the house and ranch to the state of California so that it would be preserved as a state park. We are lucky she did.
For directions and information about visiting the park go to www.parks.ca.gov/willrogers .

ASTRA LUMINA – MUCH MORE THAN A LIGHTED GARDEN, Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

Astra Lumina exhibit, Seattle, WA. Start gate or "Astra Archway."

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took these photos in Seattle in December 2024 on a phenomenal walk at Astra Lumina, an "enchanted night walk among the stars," at the Seattle Chinese Garden. The same exhibit is apparently available in Dallas, Gatlinburg, Los Angeles, Philadelphia and Seattle until January 31, 2025.

What sets AstraLumina a galaxy apart from other lighted garden events is the bold vision behind an exuberant music-and-lighting show. Everything is big and nothing is static. This gives the experience its power to lift the spirit. A 3-minute video overview shows a sample of every art installation along the one-mile night walk. The video does such a good job giving an idea of what to expect, especially if it is played with the sound on and the volume up, that I share only still shots.

The "Stellar Visions" uplifting visuals and pulsing music sweep away two visitors.

My favorite of the nine art installations was “Stellar Visions.” In the screenshot above, the silhouettes of two visitors on the right give an idea of how big and how high the giant lens-like screen was, as if pointed at the heavens. Projected onto it, a cosmos-inspired video to uplifting celestial music swept me away on a virtual journey through space.

My next favorite was walking through the utterly cool special effects of “Stardust Rays.” It felt like floating through interstellar currents even though my feet never left the Earth.

Cosmic Choir, detail.

With nine areas sufficiently different in mood, visuals and sounds, chances are everyone can find favorites and count on feeling transported to distant star fields. The many photo opportunities along the way were a nice bonus.

In the Cosmic Choir, I saw a red lantern, but this is what my phone captured.

The lantern turned purple, but this is what my phone captured.

For me, Astra Lumina was an exciting, stirring experience, not one to bring me serenity. The bigness of it all boosted my ambition, optimism, and happiness. At the Astra Lumina website, tickets seem available only until January 31, 2025, but this is not the first year of the show, so perhaps it won’t be the last.

A lit plant as I saw it.

SANGRE DE NOPAL/BLOOD OF THE NOPAL: Exhibit at the Fowler Museum, UCLA, Los Angeles, CA

Sangre de Nopal exhibit at the Fowler Museum, UCLA.

One of my favorite museums in Los Angles is the Fowler Museum on the campus of UCLA, with its focus on art and material culture, primarily from Asia, Africa, and the Pacific, as well as the Americas. In mid-December I made an excursion to the Fowler to do some holiday shopping in its excellent gift shop, and while I was there made a quick visit to the exhibit Sangre de Nopal/Blood of the Nopal: Tanya Aquiniga and PorfirioGutierrez en Conversacion/in Conversation, which is on view in one of the four museum galleries. While we were there we saw two groups of school children who had come to see the exhibit and participate in the hands-on displays.

Somos una tela continue (We are a continuous cloth), 2023 by Tanya Aquiniga, 2023. Found objects and stones from the Los Angeles River, low-fired terra cotta, cotton dyed with terracotta, and cotton rope.

The exhibit features fiber artists Tanya Aquiniga and Porfirio Gutierrez as well as Oaxacan textiles from the Fowler Museum collection. 

Oaxacan textiles from the Fowler collection. Installation inspired by the temporary devotional structures called Lis Dxan erected during Holy Week in Zapotecan communities.

Here are some of the items on display.

Somos Mujeres (We Are Women) by Tanya Aquiniga, 2024. Terra cotta, nickel, epoxy, cochineal dye, cochineal insects, cotton rope. 

Nopal by Tanya Aquiniga, 2017. Abaca pulp, clay, alpaca, flax, succulents, iron, horsehair, cochineal, copper, gold, human hair.

Emotional Body by Tanya Aquiliga, 2023. Cotton rope and low-fire terra cotta. Video.

Detail of Emotional Body.

Sangre de Nopal/Blood of the Nopal: Tanya Aguiñiga & Porfirio Gutiérrez en Conversación/in Conversation is organized by the Museum of Contemporary Art Santa Barbara and developed in collaboration with the Fowler Museum at UCLA. It is a multi-site project offering an expanded understanding of the scientific and Indigenous origins of cochineal, a red dye developed by the Zapotec peoples.

What is cochineal?

First cultivated by the Zapotec peoples around 500 B.C., cochineal is derived from an insect that lives on the opuntia (prickly pear) cactus. Its chemical ingenuity, stability, and chromatic intensity changed the course of art around the world. Despite the global scale and impact of cochineal, its spiritual, medicinal, and technical origins within Indigenous Mexican communities remain little understood. Sangre de Nopal offers a case study in multi-generational innovation, acknowledging the scientific knowledge and cultural heritage embedded in the cultivation of cochineal. (From the Fowler Museum website.)

The exhibit will be on view at the Fowler until January 12, 2025. I am glad I got to see it before it closes.

Entrance to Fowler Museum of Cultural History, UCLA