ROAD TRIP TO THE ITALIAN ALPS: Bergamo, Valle Camonica, Lake Iseo

View from our room in Capo de Ponte, Italy.

In early June, after spending four days in Milan, we rented a car and did a short driving trip to the Italian Alps. It was a trip we had done before, in February 2003. This time, the weather was warmer, days longer, and we spent more time in the Valle Camonica. We started in Bergamo, just an hour or so north of Milan.

Looking over the city walls, Bergamo, Italy.

Bergamo dates back to Roman times, when it was known as Bergamum. It has two parts, a lower city on the flat plain, and the Citta Alta, or upper city, perched on a hill and surrounded by an ancient wall. The cobblestone streets in this medieval city are narrow and there is almost no available parking. On the advice of our hotel, we parked in the underground parking structure, took the elevator to the top, and bumped our suitcases over the cobblestones for the seven-minute walk to our hotel. 

Evening's bread supply for the hotel restaurant.

View from our room in Bergamo.

There we climbed the steep stairs to our room on the top floor of the building, which, we were told, dates back to the fourth century. Our room looked over the hotel restaurant patio below.

The Citta Alta, Bergamo.

Most tourists come to the Citta Alta just for the day and arrive by funicular from the lower city. In addition to its historic churches and museums, the Citta Alta has one long shopping street lined with restaurants and shops--pizza, pastries, gelato, candies, souvenirs, clothing, jewelry—you name it.

Sweets for sale, Bergamo.

Puppet theater.

Among my favorite shop windows was one featuring animal masks. I was also intrigued by a book shop with a small puppet stage displayed in its window. When I was a child I would have loved to have had such a puppet stage

Mother and baby wooly mammoth models, Natural Science Museum, Bergamo.

The main focus of our visit to Bergamo was the natural history museum where we paid a visit to Eudimorphodon, the pterosaur fossil that was featured in my book Pterosauars: Rulers of the Skies in the Dinosaur Age, and to the wooly mammoth model, also a subject of one of my books. See my post at my Art and Books blog about the fossil and diorama of Eudimorphodon. We also visited the historical museum in Bergamo, where there are exhibits about the long human history in northern Italy, from prehistoric to Roman times to the present.

Prehistoric rock engravings, Naquane National Park.

From Bergamo we headed north into the Alps to the Valle Camonica, where our goal was to visit Naquane National Park to see the ancient petroglyphs. 

Rock with prehistoric engravings, Museum in Cemmo.

Our first stop was at the local museum, which provided a preview and information about the discoveries in the Valle Camonica. The ticket was also good for both the Naquane park entrance and another museum. At the park entrance we got a map that guided us to the major petroglyph sites. There wooden walkways allowed a close-up view of the images and sign-boards in both Italian and English explained the significance of the carvings.

View from our room at the Casa Visnenza B&B, Capo de Ponte.

In Capo di Ponte we stayed in a B&B tucked in the hills above the river valley. As I gazed out the window I felt like I had become part of a Renaissance painting. Over a hearty breakfast we got to know some of the other guests and the owner, whose mother had grown up in the house (the youngest of six children). She was very helpful in advising us where to go and what to see. The valley is filled with history and numerous tracks and hiking trails.

One evening, on a short walk, we met a curious pair of donkeys and their foals along the carriage track up the mountain behind our B&B.

Olive orchard and farmhouse at Agriturismo La Tesa hotel.

From Capo di Ponte we drove down the west side of Lake Iseo (through many tunnels!) to the resort town of Iseo, where we stayed for one night in a agritourism hotel in the hills above the town. The original farmhouse is now a hotel and restaurant. The olive orchard and berry vines are still maintained and part of the grounds. (Robot lawn mowers keep the grass perpetually trimmed.) 

Overlook of Lake Iseo from Agriturismo La Tesa hotel.

A short walk from the La Tesa hotel leads to the top of the escarpment with a panoramic view of Lake Iseo and Isla Isola.

Hotel Villa Malpensa, Milan airport.

 
Our last night in Italy was spent at a hotel near the airport. From the window of our room we could see the airplanes taking off just a mile away. But rather surprisingly, the hotel felt rural, surrounded by fields and next to a small village. 

Tower behind Hotel Villa Malpensa.

As we took a walk after dinner that evening we discovered a strange tower that looked like the perfect setting for “Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your hair!” Apparently, it was built as some sort of silo, or grain storage tower.

During the entire trip to Italy we relied on our phone's GPS for both walking and driving. We wonder how we ever managed to find our way on our previous trips to Italy, before GPS was invented! We must have relied on paper maps and verbal directions!

Path between petroglyph sites in Naquane National Park.

We always enjoy travelling to Italy and have been there numerous times—summer, fall, winter, spring. This was our first trip in June, and although the weather was warm, only two days were truly hot (above 90 degrees F.) and we had almost no rain. It was also the beginning of high tourist season, so popular sites like the Duomo in Milan and the main street of the Citta Alta in Bergamo were crowded. But our trip to the Valle Camonica was enough off the beaten track that we felt we had escaped the crowds. It was a good trip.

At the entrance to Naquane National Park.

My report of the first part of our trip, in Milan, posted on June 30, 2025. 

RED ROCK CANYON, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA: Towering Rocks, Hiking Trails, Ancient Rock Art in the Mojave Desert

Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas, Nevada.

Just outside the bustling city of Las Vegas, Nevada, is Red Rock Canyon, a conservation area with monumental rocks, miles of hiking trails, and intriguing ancient rock art. A 13-mile one-way scenic drive, beginning at the Visitor Center near the park entrance, provides an overview of the many special features of the park and opportunities to take photographs.

One of many hiking trails at Red Rock Canyon.

On a Friday afternoon at the end of March, my husband Art and I visited Red Rock Canyon. I had paid the entrance fee in advance online and had my ticket handy as we arrived at the fee station. (A limited number of cars are permitted at each entry time to prevent crowding at the parking lots at the various viewpoints.) It was a beautiful day—partly cloudy and mild weather.  In summer, the temperature can reach 120 degrees Fahrenheit!

Entrance to Visitor Center.

We stopped first at the Visitor Center, where we talked to a ranger who gave us a map and advice on places to go on short hikes. Along the back wall of the Visitor Center there appeared to be a giant mural of the rock formation that gives Red Rock Canyon its name, but as we got closer we realized that we were looking through a huge picture window and the scene was real. It was our preview of what we would see close-up on our scenic drive. 

View of Calico Hills from the Visitor Center.

Displayed along the window sill were baskets and other objects made by Native Americans from the area.

Native American figure on display at the Visitor Center.

The Visitor Center also has a place to buy snacks and drinks and a well-stocked gift shop. We had brought a picnic lunch. While we ate in the picnic area behind the Visitor Center we watched a pair of white-tailed antelope squirrels scurrying among the cactus and under the tables, foraging for dropped crumbs. Unlike most desert wildlife, the squirrels are active in the daytime, holding their tails over their backs like tiny umbrellas.

View from the first parking area on the Scenic Loop drive. Note tiny figures on the rock.

Our first stop on the scenic drive was the overlook of Calico Basin where massive red rocks rise up from a dry valley. It was only when we realized that the tiny dots along the path below and on the rock were people, that we understood the scale of the rock.

We looked for the tortoise at the parking area but didn't see it.

Both of us were reminded of our visit many years ago to Uluru (also known as Ayers Rock), the giant red rock in the middle of the Australian desert. The geology of the two formations is different, but both are huge and both are red. The red color is the result of iron oxide (basically rust). Colors of other rocks in the park come from different combinations of minerals and geologic processes.

Our second stop was at the sandstone quarry. In the 19^th century, local settlers had quarried the stone for building.

Stone blocks in the old quarry.

Along the path to the quarry we passed a manzanita in bloom, with its clusters of small bell-shaped flowers. We had hoped to see more spring flowers, but we were a bit early in the season.

Manzanita blossoms.

We then continued on the scenic drive, past the Hight Point Overlook (at an elevation of 4771 feet) to the turn-off for the Petroglyph Trail. There we followed the short, but rocky path to the base of a large rock wall where dozens of drawings were chipped into the stone. 

Petroglyphs at the end of the Petroglyph Wall Trail.

While some drawings resemble animals (bighorn sheep in some cases) and others appear to be a kind of record keeping, no one knows for sure what the symbols mean. There are also handprints “painted” in red. The images were made by ancient Americans who lived in Red Rock Canyon more than 800 years ago.

Hand prints made with iron oxide.

After another short hike, we returned to the scenic drive and made out way to the end at the highway leading to Las Vegas, about a half-hour away. We had enjoyed a good taste of Red Rock Canyon in the few hours we spent there. Someday we’ll have to go back to take some of the longer hikes and see more.

View of the Calico Basin looking southeast.

The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area is operated by the Red Rock Canyon Conservancy. For more information about Red Rock Canyon and making a reservation to visit, go to the Red Rock Canyon website.

Red Rock Canyon formations are the result of millions of years of geologic action.

ANCIENT PETROGLYPHS IN THE ATACAMA DESERT OF CHILE, by Caroline Arnold at The Intrepid Tourist

Petroglyphs in the Atacama Desert in Northern Chile

In December 2009, Art and I spent five days in the Atacama Desert in the far north of Chile, staying at Tierra Atacama in San Pedro de Atacama. Each day, our hotel arranged tours to sites in the area.

The focus of our second day’s trip was an ancient petroglyph site in the foothills of the Andes. This turned out to be a private tour, as no one else from the hotel wanted to go there that day.

For thousands of years, a large rock outcrop at the foot of Andes has been used by indigenous artists to make drawings of people, animals and other images.

About an hour’s drive north of San Pedro, we approached an open valley surrounding a semi-circular rock outcrop. A caretaker was inside the small visitor center, but otherwise we were the only people there.

A life-size drawing of a llama, with a smaller image inside it.

Even from a distance I could see the outline of a llama on the first boulder. Deeply incised on the vertical surface, it was nearly life size. The surprise, as we got closer, was that there was another smaller llama drawn inside the larger one, perhaps to indicate fertility.

Puma

Although it is difficult to date rock art, it is believed that some of the images are thousands of years old.

Drawings were found all over the site.

Scrambling up the boulders we saw petroglyphs of more llamas, big and small, as well foxes, pumas, jaguars, snakes, flamingos, and human figures with feather headdresses.

Seated person with feather headdress

As we stood there in the shadow of these ancient images, it was easy to imagine prehistoric hunters resting here on their way to the next oasis.

Foxes

The extremely dry climate is ideal for preserving rock art, and in many cases the drawings appear as fresh as if they were made yesterday.

Our shaded lunch spot in Rainbow Canyon

For our picnic lunch we went to nearby Rainbow Canyon, named for the unusual variety of colorful rock formations. Shade was in short supply, but we found a large rock whose shadow was just big enough to set up our lunch table.

Terraced fields in the village of Rio Grande

For our final stop we drove to the remote village of Rio Grande for an example of terraced farming. The contrast between the small but lush fields at the base of the river canyon and the stark, steep walls that contained them was huge.

Village church in Rio Grande

On the way back to the highway, we spotted a group of guanacos, the wild relatives of llamas and alpacas, domestic animals that are kept for their wool and meat.

Guanaco

A full report of our visit to the Atacama can be found in these posts from May 2011:
Chile: Atacama Desert, Part 1, Flamingoes, Oases and Volcanoes
Chile: Atacama Desert, Part 2, Ancient Rock Art, Llamas and Geysers 

SPRINGTIME IN THE SONORA DESERT: At Tohono Chul Gardens, Tucson, AZ

Horse sculpture at the Tohono Chul Botanical Garden, Tucson, Arizona

It was springtime in the desert in southern Arizona. Wildflowers were blooming among the cacti, butterflies were flitting about, and a roadrunner dashed by through the underbrush. On the rocky ridge to the north, peaks capped with snow poked into the clear blue sky.

Queen butterfly (Danaus gilippus)

In late February, I spent a week with friends in Tucson, Arizona. One day we did an excursion to the Tohono Chul botanical garden for a delicious outdoor lunch in the Garden Bistro, followed by a walk among the desert plants.

Cholla cactus

Tohono Chul, a garden, nature preserve and cultural museum, is located in Casas Adobes, a suburb of Tucson, Arizona. The words "tohono chul" translate as "desert corner" and are borrowed from the language of the Tohono O’odham, the indigenous people of southern Arizona.

Petroglyphs and grinding stone

In one part of the garden one can see a display of rock drawings and stone implements from that culture.

Succulents

After a delicious lunch on the patio of the garden bistro, we purchased our tickets and set off on the trails through the garden, passing various types of cactus, succulents, desert adapted shrubs, wildflowers, and various sculptures.

The garden docents are founts of information

As we stopped to admire some golden poppies, a docent pointed out some rare pink poppies she had discovered growing in a nearby exhibit.

Barrel cactus with a cluster of fruits, one partially eaten

We were a bit early in the season to see the cacti in bloom, but we found a number of barrel cacti covered in succulent fruit–one of them already nibbled by some hungry animal that had braved the sharp spines.

Vegetable and herb gtarden

As we continued along the path we came to a fenced “kitchen garden” filled with beds of lettuce, broccoli, beets, onions, and a wide variety of other vegetables that thrive in Arizona’s mild winter climate.

Milkweed pod ready to disperse its seeds

The Tohono Chul garden is a pleasant walk among a wide variety of desert plants--some familiar and others a surprise. On our way out, a metallic hawk cast its eagle eye on our departure.
For directions, hours, and ticket prices, click HERE.

One of numerous garden sculptures