Showing posts with label Richard Hewett. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Richard Hewett. Show all posts

Monday, April 6, 2026

HAPPY 15TH ANNIVERSARY to THE INTREPID TOURIST: Sunday at the Pyramids—Notes from the Field

Teotihuacan, Mexico. Pyramid of the Sun.

Fifteen years ago, in April 2011, I launched The Intrepid Tourist. Its original purpose was to publish my accumulated travel writing, but soon expanded to include articles by friends and family. With a new post once a week since then, there are now more than 600 posts on the blog. And the total number of views is now more than a million. I thank all my guest posters and my dedicated readers who inspire me to keep it going.

This week’s post comes from a long-lost folder, recently discovered when cleaning out my file drawers.  Every trip leaves its impressions—of sights, sounds, smells, people, animals, places—all the things that make a place and an experience unique. In 1992, I was in Mexico, researching my book City of the Gods: Mexico’s Ancient City of Teotihuacan. The notes I found in the file folder are my first impressions after arriving at the site, a short distance outside Mexico City. None of the information in my notes appears in my book, which is about the pre-Aztec civilization that thrived at Teotihuacan nearly 2000 years ago. I’m not sure why I kept them. But as I read through my notes I am transported back to that day. They encapsulate what I like most about travel—the richness of all the little things that make each experience unique and memorable.



 Sunday at the Pyramids

(Notes from the field.)

Tent restaurants along the road—each with someone waving at passing cars—a woman in a red dress with a white apron.

Families picnicking on the grassy area along the fence around the pyramids—making a rope swing from tree, playing soccer, drinking beer.

Vendors on road by traffic circle with buckets of oranges, cactus fruit, large woody objects like coconuts.

Old man and child with donkey cart stopped in the shade, looking through the fence at the garden of our hotel—green lawns, white iron tables, flowers, children’s play equipment.

Dogs and puppies everywhere. Also, chickens, a family of ducks, sheep, goats, donkeys--all randomly grazing along side of road.

Wildflowers—little yellow and orange ones; tiny purple fireweed.

Whirling men on a pole seen from a distance.

Donkey drinking beer in front of a craft shop.

Man offering a maguey demonstration.

Children driving green and orange plastic go-carts on the cement plaza.

A parade—chanting with banners.

Parking lot jammed with cars and tour buses.

Young couples more interested in each other than the pyramids—laughing, touching, kissing.

Children racing up steps of pyramids and crawling through irrigation holes in walls.

Vendors slipping out of their pockets obsidian heads and knives, clay figures—“good price”, “very cheap”, “genuine”.  Also selling blankets, necklaces, plates, flutes, harps.  A constant repetitive trill of flutes and simple tunes on harps.

Japanese group posing for photo on Sun Pyramid, taking turns with each camera. “Say whiskey!”

Met an Australian couple pushing a stroller with two children—had been told to walk 1 km down wrong road. They didn’t speak Spanish. We were parked by a cactus garden on road leading to Sun Pyramid. Dick was taking photos of the hundreds of people going up the steps of the pyramid with his 500 mm lens on a tripod. [Richard Hewett was the photographer of my book.]

Passed by two soldiers leading girls on horses—later soldiers returned alone.

All day there was the sound of fireworks—later found out it was from a fiesta celebrating the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Streets in the town of San Juan de Teotihuacan decorated with strings of paper decorations.

Soccer game on field within the archeological zone.

For more about Teotihuacan read my post of Jan 29, 2018 about the fabulous exhibit at the de Young Museum in San Francisco.

 

Monday, April 14, 2014

WHERE IN THE WORLD? Celebrating the Third Anniversary of The Intrepid Tourist

Greenwich, England, Prime Meridian
From the time I was young and followed the progress of our family road trips on the map as I sat in the back seat of the car, I have always been fascinated with geography–both the actual places that we drove through and the lines on the map marking arbitrary divisions between towns, states and countries. I love reading atlases and finding geographic markers on the globe. In celebration of the third anniversary of The Intrepid Tourist I would like to share a few photos that mark some of the geographic points I have personally visited.

My parents and three brothers at the Continental Divide, 1958
The oldest is a family photo at the Continental Divide I took with my Brownie camera on our trip in 1958 from Minneapolis to California.  That trip was the first time any of us had seen mountains–Minnesota, by comparison, being a relatively flat state. We were all suitably impressed.  At Monarch pass, elevation 11,312 feet, we read that water flowing to the east ended up in the Gulf of Mexico and water flowing to the west, in the Pacific.

Standing on Four States at once at the Four Corners, 1990
On that same trip our family camped for several days at Mesa Verde in Colorado. As we headed south we drove through the four corners area where Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah meet.  Many years later I was in southwestern Colorado again researching my book, The Ancient Cliff Dwellers of Mesa Verde, with Richard Hewett, the photographer of the book.  On our way back to Los Angeles, we stopped at the Four Corners marker and took pictures.

Caroline in the Northern Hemisphere, Jennifer in the Southern Hemisphere
Another historic photo is the picture of me and my daughter Jennifer taken on the Equator in Uganda in 1971.  Two things impressed me about being on the Equator. I had expected it to be hot, but, in fact, due to the elevation, the climate in Uganda was quite comfortable even in summer. As expected, the sun was almost directly overhead at noon. What surprised me was how quickly it became dark when the sun set.  Conversely, at dawn the sun just seemed to pop over the horizon, and suddenly it was day.

When I was in Turkey two years ago, I crossed the bridge that links Asia and Europe in Istanbul. On our return, we passed a similar sign welcoming us to Europe.

Welcome sign on the Asian side of the Bosporus
In 1999, while spending three months in Australia when Art was on sabbatical, we traveled to Alice Springs where we made a point to visit the marker for the Tropic of Capricorn.  Visiting the Tropic of Cancer is still on my bucket list.  We were relatively close last summer while vacationing in the Yucatan, but not close enough to make it a destination.
At the Tropic of Capricorn, near Alice Springs, Australia 1999
I still have many geographic points I would like to visit. Who knows, perhaps they will become subjects for The Intrepid Tourist someday.  As I begin this fourth year of the blog, I thank all of my friends and family who have contributed to The Intrepid Tourist and all of you who have been my faithful readers.
To another year of Happy Traveling!