CANARY ISLANDS NATURE TOUR, Part 3: Guest Post by Susan Kean

 

Gran Canaria. View down the ravine with sow thistle.

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George recently visited the Canary Islands on a nature tour. I thank her for sharing her impressions and terrific photos with The Intrepid Tourist.

There is so much to say about the next three days here in Gran Canaria. The island is almost entirely volcanic, rising to about 6000 feet around the edge of its Central Valley or caldera. From the high points there are a number of canyons that were formed millions of years ago by rain. They go down to the ocean from the high point. 

View from the coach as we drive along the narrow roads on the western side of the island.

The roads are narrow with spectacular views, as they wind their way up the canyons. We pass through various ecological zones as we go higher.

Local variety of aeonium.

On Tuesday we drove along the spectacular west coast to a small port, Puerto Rico, and took a boat trip. It was very rough and I spent most of the time watching the horizon to control my queasy stomach! We saw dolphins and small bottlenose whales. Later in the day on dry land saw many birds.

Spoonbills.

Next day we visited the pine forest area and caught a glimpse of the rare Gran Canaria blue chaffinch and enjoyed sunset from the balcony of the Parador Hotel

The following day we ventured into the lower regions of the volcanic caldera to the town of Moya. This time our primary goal was to see the Laurel pigeon. A nearly extinct species with which that they have been able to repopulate their area of the island.

Orchid.

On our last day in Gran Canaria we went to the capital, Las Palmas. We started with church at the English language Episcopal church, Holy Trinity.

Plaque outside the Anglican Church, established 1891.

We were a bit early so we walked around the neighborhood. This area was established by the British Traders in the 18th Century.

Inside Catholic Church.

After worship we headed for the old town area where we saw the Catholic Cathedral of Saint Ann. 

House where Columbus stayed in 1492, 1493 and 1502.

The most interesting place we saw was the house where Christopher Columbus stayed on three of his four trips to America--1492, 1493, and the fourth trip in 1502. I didn’t realize he had made four trips to America. The Columbus house is now a museum.

Small Mardi Gras Parade in Las Palmas. A big one happens on the island of Tenerife.

Look for Susan's previous posts about her trip to the Canary Islands. Part 1 posted on May 26, 2025, and Part 2 posted on June 2, 2025.

CANARY ISLANDS NATURE TOUR, Part 2: Guest Post by Susan Kean

 

View from the top of crater over to Las Palmas. Canary Islands.

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George recently toured the Canary Islands on a nature tour. I thank her for sharing her impressions and terrific photos with The Intrepid Tourist.

Today’s adventure in the Gran Canaria was learning about their indigenous people and checking out the main volcanic crater on the island. Relevant to today’s times, the Canary Island folks were very grateful to the CIA who gave them a heads up in 1971 about an impending earthquake. In those days Spain had no earthquake prediction systems and the CIA were in the Atlantic and observed some activity. This early warning helped save lives.

Cave. (Note tiny cars on lower right for scale.)

It is believed that the earliest people came to Gran Canaria in the 3rd Century. They were from North Africa, similar to the Berbers in Morocco. It is not known how they got there but they may have been brought by the Romans. 

Skeleton.

The early people came prepared--bringing seeds, animals, everything they needed for existence. They lived in caves, similar to those of some indigenous people in the North America.

We had a Tapas lunch in a cave restaurant. Our restaurant was in a cave dug into the hillside.

Center statue is a model of an indigenous statue found on a hillside.

The last day of our Nature Trek trip to Gran Canaria was spent near our hotel at Valley Agaete Necropolis where we learned how the indigenous people buried their dead in raised stone tombs because it was impossible to dig graves in the lava rock. This was during 7th to 11th century.

Stone tomb.

We also had a wonderful time wine tasting and lunch at Finca La Laja farm where they grow coffee, grapes, all kinds of citrus, bananas and every fruit you can think of--almost. The climate is a bit cooler than California and has more rain.

Winery at Finca La Laia.

Opuntia.

Opuntia (prickly pear cactus) was imported from America to grow the cochineal insect to produce red coloring. The cactus is everywhere now.

Feral cats.

Ferry approaching the pier in small harbor near our hotel. I found the lava cliffs coming down to the ocean spooky. 

Part 1 of Susan's trip to the Canary Islands posted last week, May 26, 2025. Part 3 will post next week, June 9, 2025.

CANARY ISLANDS NATURE TOUR, Part 1: Guest Post by Susan Kean

Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George recently toured the Canary Islands on a nature tour. I thank her for sharing her impressions and terrific photos with The Intrepid Tourist. The islands are not named for the canary bird. Rather, the name Islas Canarias is likely derived from the Latin name Canariae Insulae, meaning "Islands of the Dogs", perhaps because monk seals or sea dogs were abundant.

View from our hotel balcony.

We arrived in the Canary Islands, specifically Gran Canaria yesterday. The islands, which include Tenerife (the only one I’d heard of), are about 100 miles off the coast of Africa. They are an autonomous community that is part of Spain They claim to have the best climate in the world. They are volcanic islands of various ages--2-3 million years-- and are still active. The volcano on La Palma erupted last year.

Church of St John the Baptist, Arucas. Built about 100 years ago in volcanic rock

Gran Canaria is a circular island about 30 miles across. Our hotel is on the Northwest side of the island in a beautiful setting.

Dragon fruit tree…no dragon fruit do not come from this tree. They only flower every ten years. So the bag on the top is to collect the seeds.

We are on a nature tour. It’s amazing that a small island like this has so much to see.

Limonium, very rare Canary variety.

Today we visited the Botanic Garden to be introduced to all the different plants and birds on the island.

Our guide explaining that this is not a cactus. The only true cactus are in the Americas. It evolved down a separate line. It developed similar water retaining features but has a milky sap.

Sunset.

Part 2 will post next week, with Part 3 in the following week.

RAINY BUT SPECTACULAR ICELAND: Guest Post by Owen Floody

52 Places to Go: Week 41

Sigöldugljufur waterfall gorge, Iceland

With many thanks to Owen Floody for another exceptional contribution to The Intrepid Tourist.

Just back from our re-entry into international travel.  Perhaps this itself deserves some comment.  Our travel preparations did include some tasks and requirements (most notably Covid tests shortly before departure and return) reflecting the new pandemic or (optimistically) post-pandemic world.  But the trip itself was as smooth and efficient as could be, culminating in a return to Newark that was at least 30 min ahead of schedule.  In part, these achievements must reflect the relatively small number of international travelers these days.  But they also suggest effective organization and work by United Airlines and Iceland’s travel officials. 

Not coincidentally, our trip took us to one of the safest places in the Covid world, Iceland. More specifically, the trip took the form of a 6-day Autumn Highlands photo-tour of Iceland, led by Haukur Snorrason, of Iceland Photo Tours.  This was my third photo-tour with Haukur and won’t be my last.  He is good company and a great guide, able to present you with one amazing sight after another, even in the most challenging weather.  He also is a skilled professional photographer, able to convey tips for the improvement of your efforts without ever being overbearing, or even overtly instructional.

Marina area of Reykjavik

We stayed briefly in the marina area of Reykjavik (Icelandair Marina Hotel) and enjoyed this location, which we explored early on our one full day in town.  Soon thereafter, we connected with Haukur and the four other members of our group to begin our photo-tour.  This jumped around a bit, reflecting generally very rainy weather and Haukur’s efforts to avoid, or at least minimize, our exposure to the raindrops. 

Fjallsár and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoons

The tour included much of Iceland’s southern coast and some familiar sights, including the Fjallsár and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoons and Reynisfjara Beach at sunrise.  But the most impressive and rewarding parts of the tour were the stretches through the highlands, an inland area that was largely new to me.  It is impossible to do this area justice in a few words and pictures, but I will try to convey a taste by describing a few of the highlights.

Reynisfjara Beach at sunrise

One focus of our attention in the highlands was the Veidivötn (Fishing Lakes) area.  This is a small area packed with beautiful crater lakes (about 50 of them in an area of approximately 36 square miles) that attract fishermen going after the resident brown trout and Artic char.   

Veidivötn (Fishing Lakes) area

Also memorable were the many streams, rivers, canyons, and waterfalls that litter this and other parts of Iceland such as sunrise over the beautiful Sigöldugljufur waterfall gorge and the Leirá River, cutting through a lava field as it bears runoff from the Mýrdalsjökull Icecap.

Leirá River

Nevertheless, despite this beauty, I found the most eye-popping sights to be those in the black sand “desert” surrounding the Maelifall Volcano.   

Black sand “desert” surrounding the Maelifall Volcano

This is a landscape that just can’t exist, and yet there it is, courtesy of Iceland’s unusually high levels of volcanic and glacial activity.  A bonus for us, given the rain that followed us throughout our trip, was that these conditions may have made the desert even more dramatic and attractive than usual, with blacker-than-usual sand, greener-than-usual vegetation, and an even greater-than-usual contrast between the two.

Maelifall Volcano

Obviously, I enjoyed and recommend this trip, along with all of Iceland Photo Tours’ other offerings.  Wonderland tends to elicit such reactions.  But I do need to throw some caveats in here.  I hope that some readers will consider travel to Iceland as a result of having read this column and viewed these images.  And some of the sites we visited would be easy to find and access in one’s own rental car.  However, this would not be the case for many of the sites we most enjoyed.  For example, it struck me that much of the black sand desert that we toured required frequent crossings of significant streams that could not be negotiated safely by a standard SUV or other car.  I am sure that there are ways of getting into this area that would not require a photo-tour, but I think that some local knowledge and expertise would be highly advisable.  Rest assured that the scenery to be visited is well worth the trouble!  Happy travels.

To read Owen's post about his trip to Iceland in May 2013, click HERE.

 

DISCOVERING SANTORINI'S MAGIC, Guest Post by Catherine Mayone

 52 Places to Go: Week 34

The island of Santorini, Greece. Oia architecture

My niece Cathy and her husband Mike just returned from a wonderful vacation on Santorini and sent me this terrific report. 

In the lead up to my trip to the Island of Santorini, Greece, a friend of mine gave me some tips but refused to give too many details for fear of spoiling the surprises.  So I’ll try not to reveal too much and use only one adjective, “magical”, to describe the experience.  My husband and I spent six days in late May 2018 staying in two different locations and exploring the landscape, architecture, ancient ruins, quaint cliff top towns, vineyards, and just doing nothing but staring out at the azure Aegean Sea.

Sunset in Oia

Santorini, also known as Thira, was formed in the 16^th century BC when a large volcanic eruption created its current landscape.   At 28 square miles, it offers the perfect size for exploring by land and sea.  We opted to rent a car for the entire period -- at 17 euros / day it was more cost effective than taxis and provided us the freedom to wander as we pleased.  We found our tiny Fiat convertible easy for navigating the small alley ways and a blast to drive, and didn’t have issues finding free parking.  In the height of the summer season I imagine driving and parking would not be as fun; the public bus system is very affordable and comfortable in coach style buses.  ATVs, scooters, or a daily car rental are also options.

View from our Oia "cave house"

We split up our stay between the towns of Oia (pronounced “eeya”) and Imerovigli.  In Oia, our twp bedroom AirBnB cave house with a sweeping patio provided a unique experience.  In Imerovigli, our stay at the Hotel Afroessa provided a spectacular view of the sunset and the friendly welcome and hospitality of a superb staff.

Hike from Oia to Fira

It was easy to spend our first few days exploring the ancient town of Oia with a hike down to the fishing port Amoudi Bay and browsing the artsy shops, the best on the island.  We also hiked the 11K trail from Oia over the ridge, with sea views in all directions, through Imerovigli, and into the capital city of Fira, which is the port of call for the cruise ships with sidewalks full of day-trippers.

On day 4, we opted for a self-guided driving tour of the Island since we had to check out of the AirBnB and into our hotel.  We quickly learned GPS systems have a hard time in Santorini as we kept trying different roads to find our hotel. Since you rarely just pull up to a hotel and drop off your bags, porters are adept at flinging multiple suitcases over their shoulders while you’re struggling to keep up as they seem to glide up and down all of the steep, no railing, natural stone stairs.

Ancient Thera

Our first driving destination was Ancient Thera, the highest point on the island, that was home to settlements from the 9^th century BC until 726 AD, where you can see the expansive remains including the evidence of the Greek theater, Roman Baths, city center, and many private dwellings.  Since it was hard for us to get there, it’s amazing that populations long ago made it their home.  To access ancient Thera today, you can either hike up from Perissa, or hike or drive up the very windy, narrow road from Kamari.  Since we didn’t have a lot of time and the site closes at 3pm, we opted for the drive up, which is not for the faint-hearted!

Gaia winery in Kamari

We were ready for some nourishment and relaxation so our next stop was a vineyard.  Santorini is home to 1,100 hectares of vines and is well known for its white grape varieties Assyrtiko, Athiri, and Aidani.  Winemakers have invented an ungrafted vine growing process, which keeps the grapes growing in a circular tube and low to the ground to avoid the wind and heat exposure that has killed crops.  The GPS once again failed us so we gave up on our selected vineyard and stumbled upon another one – even better – Gaia Winery in Kamari by the sea on the shore of a black beach.  A waiter later marveled that we went there since tourists often opt for the bigger, fancier wineries like Boutari Winery, Santo Winery, and Estate Argyros.  It was easy to pass a couple of hours sipping wine, nibbling on the cheese platter, and learning about each bottle of wine which our hostess explained in detail, that feature unique flavors from the volcanic soil and salt from the sea.

By now, we turned the GPS off and my navigating went something like “this looks right” and “how wrong can we be since we can see the sea”.  Last stop was Megalochori for a brief walk through the ancient town, a café break, and a visit to its local bakery.

On day 5, we wanted to see the island from the water and went on an 18 person catamaran tour by Spiridakos around the southern shores of the Island.  They did an excellent job with a BBQ and Greek style sit down lunch and swim stops at the volcanic “hot springs” (warm but not hot), white beach and red beach.  The water at the beaches is crystal clear and, while brisk in shoulder season, we enjoyed a swim.  You won’t find a lot of fish for snorkeling or eating in the Aegean waters.  We were told much of the fishing industry was destroyed by the dynamite fishing technique that brought fish to the surface; the fish are only starting to re-populate.

Skaros rock in Imerovigli

We had been staring at Skaros rock from our Imerovigli hotel balcony and so it was beckoning a brief hike on day 6.  You can do it as part of your hike between Fira and Oia, but we were glad we saved it for another day so we could comfortably explore it and the chapel that sits on a perch on the back side of the rock.  There are more than 600 chapels and churches on Santorini, the products of fishermen who used to vow to build a church if they returned home safely from a long sea voyage.

Santorini has everything you could want in an Island vacation.  As gorgeous as photographs are, you must experience the sights, sounds, air, water, tastes and people yourself to reveal its surprises and magic.

We highly recommend our cave house AirBnB in Oia or Hotel Afroessa in Imerovigli.

 

This article was first published  6/25/18.