SPECTACULAR RED ROCKS OF SOUTHERN UTAH: Expeditions from St. George/Ivins, Guest Post by Matt Arnold

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah.

I thank my son Matt for his gorgeous photos and his contribution to The Intrepid Tourist about his family trip to southern Utah in June 2024. He writes:

Over the last few years, I have made several trips to St. George, Utah, as a chaperone for my daughter's swim team, to the beautiful pool at Dixie State University (now Utah Tech University). Impressed by the remarkable scenery and grandeur of the red rocks of Southern Utah, I endeavored to return for non-swim purposes.  This summer we returned as a family and stayed in Ivins, Utah (essentially a suburb of St. George), using it as a jumping off spot for day trips in southern Utah.  

Zion National Park.

St. George markets itself as the "gateway to Zion" and it is certainly an easy ~1 hour drive to the Zion National Park entryway.  St. George is also close enough for day trips to both Bryce National Park and the Grand Canyon, each about 2.5 hours away (northwest, and southwest respectively.)  Even closer is a hidden gem of a state park called Snow Canyon, that is equally impressive and not as impacted and with multiple small hikes to choose from.  

Zion NP. Checkerboard Mesa.

Just driving through Southern Utah, the surrounding scenery and vistas are awe inspiring. If you travel as we did via Las Vegas, as you leave the lights behind driving toward St. George, you are met by the starkness of the Nevada desert, with Joshua trees dotting the landscape.  This ends abruptly as you reach a fracture in the mountains and I-15 freeway plunges into the Virgin River Gorge and into the bottom geologic layer of what is called the grand staircase- and ascend up through various striations and "steps" measuring millions of years of geologic epochs starting with the chocolate layer of Kaibab limestone (which I believe also forms the top rim of the Grand Canyon as well.)  

Snow Canyon State Park. Jenny's Canyon hike.

From there you can eventually step up and ascend through further strata to the Navajo sandstone of Zion and then the Claron formation of Bryce-- spanning from ~225 to 50 million years ago.   All in all, geology is what makes southern Utah tick, from red rocks, to sandstone mesas, to slot canyons, to the various angles of fractures and faults or blobs of rock sticking up from the landscape.

Snow Canyon. Lava flow hike.

To explore the geology, over the course of a week, we started locally with several small hikes at Snow Canyon State Park, within walking distance of our rented home in Ivins.  We followed this with a day trip to Zion National Park and hiked the Narrows (the path is the Virgin river) and would recommend renting a walking stick (at Zion entrance) and bring good shoes you don't mind getting wet (old running shoes worked fine.)  

Zion NP. Narrows hike.

Zion has many other impressive hikes we will have to go back for.   There is a bus system in Zion Valley, cut by the upper reaches of the Virgin river, where no cars are allowed.   It takes about an hour to make it up the canyon and again an hour to get back (you can hop on or off at various stops), with great views of the canyon the whole time.  Another day was a trip to Bryce (2.5 hour drive), for a walk among the hoodoos, making a big loop so as to drive back through the West side of Zion via Route 9 to see Checkerboard Mesa among other impressive formations.

Dinosaur footprint.

While we were on a geology roll, we decided to check out both the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Center- a small museum housing a impressively large set of dinosaur footprints discovered by a local alfalfa farmer while clearing a field. This is a small but impressive little outing. Though not affiliated with the museum, within a 15 minute drive is a site where there are dinosaur footprints "in the wild" with a small trail called the Dino Cliffs Dinosaur tracks, which takes a bit of internet searching and slight off-road/dirt road car adventuring to get to, but was also a short fun little outing.

Bryce Canyon. Near Sunset/Sunrise Point.

The St. George area, besides hosting a large university, is itself an adventure and vacation destination.  The area is surrounded by housing and condo developments that have popped up on fairly recent (geologically speaking) lava beds, which in contrast to the red rock of much of the landscape, reminds me of the Big Island of Hawaii (both for the condo's and the lava fields). The area is surrounded by mountain bike trails, hiking trails, camping and miles of paved roads and trails for biking. In some ways the community is a desert version of Lake Tahoe, or Bend Oregon, marketing itself to those seeking active vacation and outdoor recreation time.   

Zion NP. Checkerboard Mesa.

The one thing we didn't quite account for was the heat in early June.  It was well over 100 degrees much of our visit during the day in St. George. Spring, fall or even winter may be better for some of the more athletic outdoor pursuits (though timing hikes in the morning or evening worked well- and several trips were made to the pool at our housing complex).  Both Zion and Bryce are at higher elevations, so our trips on these days helped take down the temperature a notch at higher elevations (Zion ~4000-5000, and Bryce 6000 feet above sea level.).  

Snow Canyon State Park.

As in much of the west, Southern Utah is full of landscapes that seem endless, and you can't help but feel that there is so much that is left to be explored.  There are additional parks, monuments, trails, and wilderness areas that invite a return at some point in the future.  

Zion NP. Narrows hike.

BREATHTAKING BEAUTY FROM YOUR BICYCLE SEAT, Gravel Grinder, Sisters, Oregon, Guest post by Matt Arnold

Gravel Grinder bike race, Sisters, Oregon, June 2021

My son Matt loves to cycle. In June 2021, he and a friend bicycled in the mountains near Sisters, Oregon, in a race/ride called Gravel Grinder, that took them over miles of back country roads and trails.

Matt on his bike.

As the promotion promised, “On this gravel adventure you’ll find roads less traveled, mounting challenges, and smack in the middle of it all, the breathtaking beauty of Oregon.” Matt has graciously shared his photos of the trip with The Intrepid Tourist. Here are a few of them.

Riding through a thinned forest.

Every day they got up at dawn to begin the day's ride, starting early to try to avoid the worst heat of the day. Although it is always warm in June, the temperatures that year were warmer than usual, reaching more than 100 degrees by afternoon. At the end of each day's route, riders collapsed in the tent village provided by the sponsors of the ride. (You could choose your own level for the ride, from the most difficult route with the steepest climbs, to the less difficult. But according to Matt, even the "easier" route was challenging. In five days participants rode 345-363 miles, including a total of 29,657 to 34,174 feet of climbing.)

Tent village.
"We take care of all of the details and support you on your journey- from tents to gourmet food to professional massage and nightly entertainment- you'll come away sore, accomplished, and with unmatched tales and friendship from the trail."

 

 

Flat road along a stream.

 

Bird on a rock.

Shallow lake.

You can find out about the current season's Gravel Grinder on the internet.

Snow-capped mountains in the distance.

WEEKEND ESCAPE at INVERNESS and POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, CA, Guest Post by Matt Arnold

 52 Places to Go: Week 26

Point Reyes National Seashore, California

In June 2018, taking advantage of their daughter being away at camp, my son Matt and his wife Kate escaped their busy life in Oakland, CA, for a short road trip to explore Inverness and the area around Point Reyes.  Here is Matt's report along with his excellent photos.

 
Surprisingly close to the Bay Area, you feel a world away in the coastal town of Inverness, entering a part of California that seems from another era. Just the drive to the coast is worth the trip. After leaving the East Bay, we utilized the Nicasio Valley Road route.  Other scenic options include taking Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Rafael or going through Mill Valley and Stinson beach via Highway 1.

Once leaving the outskirts of San Rafael and turning off of the 101, you are immediately thrown into a series of alternating quintessential California landscapes--from rolling golden hills dotted with Oak trees, to windy roads dodging giant Redwoods, to coastal bluffs filled with scrub brush, to pastoral grazing lands for cattle. The long and windy road feels less long, surrounded by such serenity. 

Looking East across Tomales Bay from "downtown" Inverness

We stayed, via Air B & B, at a small studio in the heart of Inverness, one block from Tomales Bay and Chicken Ranch Beach, looking eastward across Tomales Bay.
The topography of the area is defined by the San Andreas fault, and the collision of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates that slice their way through the Pacific edge of California. The fault line runs from Bolinas and Stinson beach to the south, following Highway 1 and then diving back into the water, forming the large and narrow Tomales Bay (think Baja California but upside down.)

Forster's Terns at Abbott's Lagoon

To the west of this fault line is Point Reyes National Seashore. Here, there is a vast collection of trails leading across the ridge with pine and oak forests, down to wild bluffs, abandoned beaches, rugged coastline, and a series of tranquil lagoons and marshland, with extensive tidal flats. There is a series of roads that lead to several of these locations, though trail heads will take you quite quickly away from the busier outlooks.

Looking across Tomales Bay from Tomales Bay State Park

The towns of Inverness and nearby Point Reyes Station, personify what would best be termed the West Marin (County) aesthetic. There is a touch of what might be blamed on the hippie roots of the area, and words like free, organic, artistic--attached to the lansdcape--all seeming appropriate. On a gastronomic level, this area is the intersection of the foodie culture that originated in the Bay Area, (fresh/locally sourced/organic) and the bucolic Old Califronia (where this produce is actually grown). Many brands, which are familiar to Bay area foodies (Marin Sun Farms, Cowgirl Creamery, Nicasio Valley Cheese, Strauss Creamery, Tomales Bay Oysters, etc.) are all located in the surrounding pasture lands/tidal zones, with several outlets in Point Reyes Station to sample their wares. In addition, the restaurants all serve top notch foodie fare, with oysters on the half shell at even the smallest sandwich shops. It is really hard to eat a meal here that isn't absolutely delicious.

There are still a few working farms on the land, and cows grazing, harking back to a true California of old.

The town of Inverness sits right at the edge of the more wild Point Reyes National Seashore, and after you round the bend on Sir Francis Drake Blvd and leave town, you really feel like you are leaving much of civilization behind. The scenery can be breathtaking. Most of the land is wild, with amazing vistas stretching from the hills down to the tidal flats or cliffs on the coast.

Tidal flats photographed in black and white at Drake's Estuary

On our particular trip, after a good night's sleep Friday, we woke early on Saturday morning and set out to explore (via our ritual exercise) the trail system in Point Reyes. We picked up coffee and breakfast at the IP Market (short for Inverness Park), which offers an excellent deli/cafe bar in addition to normal market supplies. Lots of fresh baked goods, and options for sandwiches (later I had their amazing Tri-Tip sandwich). We went to Bear Valley trailhead where Kate took off on her Saturday run, with the trail gently climbing and then descending to the coast, where several trail options will get you to the beach. Here you can get to waterfalls that flow directly into the Pacific (I think called Tidal Falls). 

Several trails in Point Reyes allow bike riding.

While Kate ran, I took off on a bike ride. The trail riding is a little more limited, and many of the trails only allow bikes on certain portions (only half of the Bear Creek trail is open.) After consulting a map I tried to string a few of the trails together, needing to use a few park roads to skip between trails, but ended up with a very satisfying ride, with the trails almost all to myself for several hours.
After our respective exercise regimens were checked off the to-do list on some pretty cool trails, we headed back to our studio. Sandwiches were picked up at the IP market and we were able to enjoy these at Chicken Ranch Beach (did I mention the Tri Tip?) 

Even in mid-June there were still plenty of wildflowers in bloom.

After lunch, another trip into Point Reyes Seashore to explore more hiking trails took me to a short trail to Abbott's lagoon.This was recommended by our AirB & B host and it did not disappoint.

Wildflowers were in bloom on the trail down to the lagoon plus an impressive collection of birds; others on the trail had just seen river otters in the lagoon (though I missed out.)

Sand dunes await at the mouth of  Abbott's lagoon, which then stretch onto the actual coastline and Point Reyes Beach.

This is a great trail to see seabirds that dot the shores around the lagoon. Once at the actual ocean front, one could potentially walk up and down the sandy beach for miles.
Dinner that night was in Inverness at the Salt Water Oyster depot. Despite being at the edge of civilization, the food was excellent. We enjoyed the local oysters, as well as scallops, and clams (linguini) and shrimp (cassoulet). When in Rome...
Sunday morning arrived sooner than we would have wished, and after cleaning up and checking out, we had one last dive into the National Seashore trail system, this time at the Estero trail head to a system of trails (most of them bike-able) surrounding Drake's Estero. This offered more views of the tidal estuary along mostly brush covered coastline.

On the Estero trail we caught several white tail deer and their fawns as it was "fawn season".

Despite the decent weekend weather, and relative proximity to San Francisco, being in the park never felt crowded. Though Bear Valley Visitor Center does get busy (it is the closest trail head to SF), we were there early, and almost every other trail that we explored we had mostly to ourselves. There were miles of some trails where I did not see another soul. This sense of isolation, so close to home, was wonderfully refreshing.

A short hike at Tomales Bay State Park to Indian Beach led to several reproductions of cone shaped Miwok bark shelters as part of a cultural exhibit.

On the way out of the National Seashore, we had one more stop on the beach, this time hitting Tomales Bay State Park, carved into the western edge of the bay, taking a short hike from Hearts Desire Beach (which was full of picnickers, kayakers, and BBQ) to Indian Beach.

An unusual thistle like plant along the trail to Abbott's Lagoon

Unfortunately our weekend was coming to an end. Reversing course on Sir Francis Drake Blvd brought us back through Point Reyes Station where we stopped for lunch. Again, we ate well, as the comfort food prepared at Side Street Kitchen was simply amazing (oysters, pork Belly BLT, pulled pork sandwich, salad). We picked up some cheese to take home across the road at Cowgirl Creamery, and returned to civilization through Nicasio Valley back to Oakland.

Lupins along Drake's estuary along the Estero trail

Despite packing a lot into the weekend, we felt refreshed and recharged for the week ahead. It felt like we barely scratched the surface of Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay, and left wanting to return for more. In particular, the Tule Elk Preserve on the northern tip, on the way to Tomales point, as well as the more famous and picturesque lighthouse at the opposite end, are on the list of things to get to on our next visit, or even camp in the park. Another trip will have to be made to actually kayak on Tomales Bay (Blue Waters Kayak) as well.
With only a small amount of traffic leaving Oakland, it took us around 1 hour, 20 minutes to get from the Bay Area to Inverness and Point Reyes.  For a map of Point Reyes click HERE. I hope you enjoy this report and are able to experience this area of California for yourself.

Abandoned fishing boat providing the classic Inverness snapshot

This article was first published July 2, 2018.

All text and photos copyright Caroline Arnold.

WEEKEND ESCAPE at INVERNESS and POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, CA, Guest Post by Matt Arnold

Point Reyes National Seashore, California

Two weeks ago, taking advantage of their daughter being away at camp, my son Matt and his wife Kate escaped their busy life in Oakland, CA, for a short road trip to explore Inverness and the area around Point Reyes.  Here is Matt's report along with his excellent photos.
Surprisingly close to the Bay Area, you feel a world away in the coastal town of Inverness, entering a part of California that seems from another era. Just the drive to the coast is worth the trip. After leaving the East Bay, we utilized the Nicasio Valley Road route.  Other scenic options include taking Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Rafael or going through Mill Valley and Stinson beach via Highway 1.

Once leaving the outskirts of San Rafael and turning off of the 101, you are immediately thrown into a series of alternating quintessential California landscapes--from rolling golden hills dotted with Oak trees, to windy roads dodging giant Redwoods, to coastal bluffs filled with scrub brush, to pastoral grazing lands for cattle. The long and windy road feels less long, surrounded by such serenity. 

Looking East across Tomales Bay from "downtown" Inverness

We stayed, via Air B & B, at a small studio in the heart of Inverness, one block from Tomales Bay and Chicken Ranch Beach, looking eastward across Tomales Bay.
The topography of the area is defined by the San Andreas fault, and the collision of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates that slice their way through the Pacific edge of California. The fault line runs from Bolinas and Stinson beach to the south, following Highway 1 and then diving back into the water, forming the large and narrow Tomales Bay (think Baja California but upside down.)

Forster's Terns at Abbott's Lagoon

To the west of this fault line is Point Reyes National Seashore. Here, there is a vast collection of trails leading across the ridge with pine and oak forests, down to wild bluffs, abandoned beaches, rugged coastline, and a series of tranquil lagoons and marshland, with extensive tidal flats. There is a series of roads that lead to several of these locations, though trail heads will take you quite quickly away from the busier outlooks.

Looking across Tomales Bay from Tomales Bay State Park

The towns of Inverness and nearby Point Reyes Station, personify what would best be termed the West Marin (County) aesthetic. There is a touch of what might be blamed on the hippie roots of the area, and words like free, organic, artistic--attached to the lansdcape--all seeming appropriate. On a gastronomic level, this area is the intersection of the foodie culture that originated in the Bay Area, (fresh/locally sourced/organic) and the bucolic Old Califronia (where this produce is actually grown). Many brands, which are familiar to Bay area foodies (Marin Sun Farms, Cowgirl Creamery, Nicasio Valley Cheese, Strauss Creamery, Tomales Bay Oysters, etc.) are all located in the surrounding pasture lands/tidal zones, with several outlets in Point Reyes Station to sample their wares. In addition, the restaurants all serve top notch foodie fare, with oysters on the half shell at even the smallest sandwich shops. It is really hard to eat a meal here that isn't absolutely delicious.

There are still a few working farms on the land, and cows grazing, harking back to a true California of old.

The town of Inverness sits right at the edge of the more wild Point Reyes National Seashore, and after you round the bend on Sir Francis Drake Blvd and leave town, you really feel like you are leaving much of civilization behind. The scenery can be breathtaking. Most of the land is wild, with amazing vistas stretching from the hills down to the tidal flats or cliffs on the coast.

Tidal flats photographed in black and white at Drake's Estuary

On our particular trip, after a good night's sleep Friday, we woke early on Saturday morning and set out to explore (via our ritual exercise) the trail system in Point Reyes. We picked up coffee and breakfast at the IP Market (short for Inverness Park), which offers an excellent deli/cafe bar in addition to normal market supplies. Lots of fresh baked goods, and options for sandwiches (later I had their amazing Tri-Tip sandwich). We went to Bear Valley trailhead where Kate took off on her Saturday run, with the trail gently climbing and then descending to the coast, where several trail options will get you to the beach. Here you can get to waterfalls that flow directly into the Pacific (I think called Tidal Falls). 

Several trails in Point Reyes allow bike riding.

While Kate ran, I took off on a bike ride. The trail riding is a little more limited, and many of the trails only allow bikes on certain portions (only half of the Bear Creek trail is open.) After consulting a map I tried to string a few of the trails together, needing to use a few park roads to skip between trails, but ended up with a very satisfying ride, with the trails almost all to myself for several hours.
After our respective exercise regimens were checked off the to-do list on some pretty cool trails, we headed back to our studio. Sandwiches were picked up at the IP market and we were able to enjoy these at Chicken Ranch Beach (did I mention the Tri Tip?) 

Even in mid-June there were still plenty of wildflowers in bloom.

After lunch, another trip into Point Reyes Seashore to explore more hiking trails took me to a short trail to Abbott's lagoon.This was recommended by our AirB & B host and it did not disappoint.

Wildflowers were in bloom on the trail down to the lagoon plus an impressive collection of birds; others on the trail had just seen river otters in the lagoon (though I missed out.)

Sand dunes await at the mouth of  Abbott's lagoon, which then stretch onto the actual coastline and Point Reyes Beach.

This is a great trail to see seabirds that dot the shores around the lagoon. Once at the actual ocean front, one could potentially walk up and down the sandy beach for miles.
Dinner that night was in Inverness at the Salt Water Oyster depot. Despite being at the edge of civilization, the food was excellent. We enjoyed the local oysters, as well as scallops, and clams (linguini) and shrimp (cassoulet). When in Rome...
Sunday morning arrived sooner than we would have wished, and after cleaning up and checking out, we had one last dive into the National Seashore trail system, this time at the Estero trail head to a system of trails (most of them bike-able) surrounding Drake's Estero. This offered more views of the tidal estuary along mostly brush covered coastline.

On the Estero trail we caught several white tail deer and their fawns as it was "fawn season".

Despite the decent weekend weather, and relative proximity to San Francisco, being in the park never felt crowded. Though Bear Valley Visitor Center does get busy (it is the closest trail head to SF), we were there early, and almost every other trail that we explored we had mostly to ourselves. There were miles of some trails where I did not see another soul. This sense of isolation, so close to home, was wonderfully refreshing.

A short hike at Tomales Bay State Park to Indian Beach led to several reproductions of cone shaped Miwok bark shelters as part of a cultural exhibit.

On the way out of the National Seashore, we had one more stop on the beach, this time hitting Tomales Bay State Park, carved into the western edge of the bay, taking a short hike from Hearts Desire Beach (which was full of picnickers, kayakers, and BBQ) to Indian Beach.

An unusual thistle like plant along the trail to Abbott's Lagoon

Unfortunately our weekend was coming to an end. Reversing course on Sir Francis Drake Blvd brought us back through Point Reyes Station where we stopped for lunch. Again, we ate well, as the comfort food prepared at Side Street Kitchen was simply amazing (oysters, pork Belly BLT, pulled pork sandwich, salad). We picked up some cheese to take home across the road at Cowgirl Creamery, and returned to civilization through Nicasio Valley back to Oakland.

Lupins along Drake's estuary along the Estero trail

Despite packing a lot into the weekend, we felt refreshed and recharged for the week ahead. It felt like we barely scratched the surface of Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay, and left wanting to return for more. In particular, the Tule Elk Preserve on the northern tip, on the way to Tomales point, as well as the more famous and picturesque lighthouse at the opposite end, are on the list of things to get to on our next visit, or even camp in the park. Another trip will have to be made to actually kayak on Tomales Bay (Blue Waters Kayak) as well.
With only a small amount of traffic leaving Oakland, it took us around 1 hour, 20 minutes to get from the Bay Area to Inverness and Point Reyes.  For a map of Point Reyes click HERE. I hope you enjoy this report and are able to experience this area of California for yourself.

Abandoned fishing boat providing the classic Inverness snapshot