WEEKEND ESCAPE at INVERNESS and POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, CA, Guest Post by Matt Arnold

 52 Places to Go: Week 26

Point Reyes National Seashore, California

In June 2018, taking advantage of their daughter being away at camp, my son Matt and his wife Kate escaped their busy life in Oakland, CA, for a short road trip to explore Inverness and the area around Point Reyes.  Here is Matt's report along with his excellent photos.

 
Surprisingly close to the Bay Area, you feel a world away in the coastal town of Inverness, entering a part of California that seems from another era. Just the drive to the coast is worth the trip. After leaving the East Bay, we utilized the Nicasio Valley Road route.  Other scenic options include taking Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Rafael or going through Mill Valley and Stinson beach via Highway 1.

Once leaving the outskirts of San Rafael and turning off of the 101, you are immediately thrown into a series of alternating quintessential California landscapes--from rolling golden hills dotted with Oak trees, to windy roads dodging giant Redwoods, to coastal bluffs filled with scrub brush, to pastoral grazing lands for cattle. The long and windy road feels less long, surrounded by such serenity. 

Looking East across Tomales Bay from "downtown" Inverness

We stayed, via Air B & B, at a small studio in the heart of Inverness, one block from Tomales Bay and Chicken Ranch Beach, looking eastward across Tomales Bay.
The topography of the area is defined by the San Andreas fault, and the collision of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates that slice their way through the Pacific edge of California. The fault line runs from Bolinas and Stinson beach to the south, following Highway 1 and then diving back into the water, forming the large and narrow Tomales Bay (think Baja California but upside down.)

Forster's Terns at Abbott's Lagoon

To the west of this fault line is Point Reyes National Seashore. Here, there is a vast collection of trails leading across the ridge with pine and oak forests, down to wild bluffs, abandoned beaches, rugged coastline, and a series of tranquil lagoons and marshland, with extensive tidal flats. There is a series of roads that lead to several of these locations, though trail heads will take you quite quickly away from the busier outlooks.

Looking across Tomales Bay from Tomales Bay State Park

The towns of Inverness and nearby Point Reyes Station, personify what would best be termed the West Marin (County) aesthetic. There is a touch of what might be blamed on the hippie roots of the area, and words like free, organic, artistic--attached to the lansdcape--all seeming appropriate. On a gastronomic level, this area is the intersection of the foodie culture that originated in the Bay Area, (fresh/locally sourced/organic) and the bucolic Old Califronia (where this produce is actually grown). Many brands, which are familiar to Bay area foodies (Marin Sun Farms, Cowgirl Creamery, Nicasio Valley Cheese, Strauss Creamery, Tomales Bay Oysters, etc.) are all located in the surrounding pasture lands/tidal zones, with several outlets in Point Reyes Station to sample their wares. In addition, the restaurants all serve top notch foodie fare, with oysters on the half shell at even the smallest sandwich shops. It is really hard to eat a meal here that isn't absolutely delicious.

There are still a few working farms on the land, and cows grazing, harking back to a true California of old.

The town of Inverness sits right at the edge of the more wild Point Reyes National Seashore, and after you round the bend on Sir Francis Drake Blvd and leave town, you really feel like you are leaving much of civilization behind. The scenery can be breathtaking. Most of the land is wild, with amazing vistas stretching from the hills down to the tidal flats or cliffs on the coast.

Tidal flats photographed in black and white at Drake's Estuary

On our particular trip, after a good night's sleep Friday, we woke early on Saturday morning and set out to explore (via our ritual exercise) the trail system in Point Reyes. We picked up coffee and breakfast at the IP Market (short for Inverness Park), which offers an excellent deli/cafe bar in addition to normal market supplies. Lots of fresh baked goods, and options for sandwiches (later I had their amazing Tri-Tip sandwich). We went to Bear Valley trailhead where Kate took off on her Saturday run, with the trail gently climbing and then descending to the coast, where several trail options will get you to the beach. Here you can get to waterfalls that flow directly into the Pacific (I think called Tidal Falls). 

Several trails in Point Reyes allow bike riding.

While Kate ran, I took off on a bike ride. The trail riding is a little more limited, and many of the trails only allow bikes on certain portions (only half of the Bear Creek trail is open.) After consulting a map I tried to string a few of the trails together, needing to use a few park roads to skip between trails, but ended up with a very satisfying ride, with the trails almost all to myself for several hours.
After our respective exercise regimens were checked off the to-do list on some pretty cool trails, we headed back to our studio. Sandwiches were picked up at the IP market and we were able to enjoy these at Chicken Ranch Beach (did I mention the Tri Tip?) 

Even in mid-June there were still plenty of wildflowers in bloom.

After lunch, another trip into Point Reyes Seashore to explore more hiking trails took me to a short trail to Abbott's lagoon.This was recommended by our AirB & B host and it did not disappoint.

Wildflowers were in bloom on the trail down to the lagoon plus an impressive collection of birds; others on the trail had just seen river otters in the lagoon (though I missed out.)

Sand dunes await at the mouth of  Abbott's lagoon, which then stretch onto the actual coastline and Point Reyes Beach.

This is a great trail to see seabirds that dot the shores around the lagoon. Once at the actual ocean front, one could potentially walk up and down the sandy beach for miles.
Dinner that night was in Inverness at the Salt Water Oyster depot. Despite being at the edge of civilization, the food was excellent. We enjoyed the local oysters, as well as scallops, and clams (linguini) and shrimp (cassoulet). When in Rome...
Sunday morning arrived sooner than we would have wished, and after cleaning up and checking out, we had one last dive into the National Seashore trail system, this time at the Estero trail head to a system of trails (most of them bike-able) surrounding Drake's Estero. This offered more views of the tidal estuary along mostly brush covered coastline.

On the Estero trail we caught several white tail deer and their fawns as it was "fawn season".

Despite the decent weekend weather, and relative proximity to San Francisco, being in the park never felt crowded. Though Bear Valley Visitor Center does get busy (it is the closest trail head to SF), we were there early, and almost every other trail that we explored we had mostly to ourselves. There were miles of some trails where I did not see another soul. This sense of isolation, so close to home, was wonderfully refreshing.

A short hike at Tomales Bay State Park to Indian Beach led to several reproductions of cone shaped Miwok bark shelters as part of a cultural exhibit.

On the way out of the National Seashore, we had one more stop on the beach, this time hitting Tomales Bay State Park, carved into the western edge of the bay, taking a short hike from Hearts Desire Beach (which was full of picnickers, kayakers, and BBQ) to Indian Beach.

An unusual thistle like plant along the trail to Abbott's Lagoon

Unfortunately our weekend was coming to an end. Reversing course on Sir Francis Drake Blvd brought us back through Point Reyes Station where we stopped for lunch. Again, we ate well, as the comfort food prepared at Side Street Kitchen was simply amazing (oysters, pork Belly BLT, pulled pork sandwich, salad). We picked up some cheese to take home across the road at Cowgirl Creamery, and returned to civilization through Nicasio Valley back to Oakland.

Lupins along Drake's estuary along the Estero trail

Despite packing a lot into the weekend, we felt refreshed and recharged for the week ahead. It felt like we barely scratched the surface of Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay, and left wanting to return for more. In particular, the Tule Elk Preserve on the northern tip, on the way to Tomales point, as well as the more famous and picturesque lighthouse at the opposite end, are on the list of things to get to on our next visit, or even camp in the park. Another trip will have to be made to actually kayak on Tomales Bay (Blue Waters Kayak) as well.
With only a small amount of traffic leaving Oakland, it took us around 1 hour, 20 minutes to get from the Bay Area to Inverness and Point Reyes.  For a map of Point Reyes click HERE. I hope you enjoy this report and are able to experience this area of California for yourself.

Abandoned fishing boat providing the classic Inverness snapshot

This article was first published July 2, 2018.

All text and photos copyright Caroline Arnold.

POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, California: McClure’s Beach

McClure's Beach, Point Reyes National Seashore, California

In mid-August Art and I spent a day at Point Reyes National Seashore and I wrote the report below. A week later, wildfires broke out all around the greater Bay Area, including the Woodward fire in the southern part of the National Seashore. If you are planning a trip to the area, be sure to check the National Park website to find out which areas may be closed.

For a change of scenery from our house in Oakland we did an expedition last week to Point Reyes National Seashore in Marin County and hiked down to McClure's beach, the northernmost beach on the Pacific side of the long peninsula. It was the perfect Covid destination, with so much room for social distancing that we could barely see the few other people who were there. (We did our trip on a weekday–which also helped reduce the number of people.) It was also the perfect choice temperature-wise on a warm summer day--not too cold and not too hot.

Near the end of the trail to McClure's Beach.

It had been a long time since we've been to Point Reyes, and my memory is that it can be windy and cold, and that is certainly true in winter. It can also be enshrouded in fog. But we were lucky and visited on a warm August day, perfect for a picnic and walk on the beach.

Point Reyes is a long peninsula, about an hour’s drive north of the San Francisco Bay area. The west side faces the Pacific Ocean, where heavy surf pounds the shore underneath steep cliffs. The east side faces much calmer Tomales Bay, a narrow strip of water dividing Point Reyes from the mainland. The south facing part of the peninsula is on Drake’s Bay, named after the English explorer Sir Francis Drake, who is believed to have landed there on his trip around the world in 1579.

Pierce Point Ranch with Tomales Bay to the East

We drove from Oakland across the Richmond Bridge to San Rafael and then through beautiful rural Marin County. At first the landscape is rolling farmland, but then the road passes through stands of gorgeous redwoods before emerging near the coast. We entered Point Reyes National Seashore just south of the town of Point Reyes Station, driving along Francis Drake Boulevard. After passing  through the small town of Inverness, we came to a choice point–left, the road to the lighthouse (now partially closed), or right to the northern beaches and Historic Pierce Point Ranch.

Historical marker at Pierce Point Ranch. The ranch was established in the 1820s by James Berry, a Mexican citizen, who lost it in a land dispute after California became a state. In 1858, the land was sold to the Pierce family.

We went to the right, drove to the end of the road and parked in the shade of giant eucalyptus trees planted by early settlers. There we had another choice point–a hiking trail to McClure’s beach, or another trail along the top of the ridge to the end of the peninsula. We chose the former, a .4 mile path that follows a narrow stream to the bottom of the cliff and the wide expanse of the beach.

Trail to the beach is .4 miles down a sandy path.

At the end of the trail, flowers bloom along the edge of a shallow pond at the base of the cliff.

Walking north on McClure's Beach

After eating our sandwiches in the shade of the cliff, we took a walk along the shore. The tide was out, leaving a band of empty mussel shells, kelp, jelly fish and random feathers along the tide line.

Kelp and mussel shells

Jellyfish

Historically settled by ranchers, the open grasslands of Point Reyes are still used for grazing cattle, although the ranches are now managed by the National Park Service. The northern tip of Point Reyes is a designated refuge for Tule Elk, a native Californian elk, similar to Rocky Mountain elk but smaller, and once in danger of extinction.

The last curve of the road before arriving at Pierce Point Ranch. At the top of the photo, the white spot is Bird Rock, located just off Tomales Point, the extreme northern tip of Point Reyes.

On our way back up the trail we spotted a herd of elk grazing on a hillside near the road. As we drove out we stopped to get a closer look and take a picture of the elk, but they were too far away. After we got home I realized that a tiny spot in one of my pictures was actually an elk.

There are many options for hikes at Point Reyes. We plan to go back in the future and try some of the other trails.

Map: Click HERE for a map of Point Reyes.

Note: The Point Reyes visitor centers are currently closed, as are some of the trails and roads. Be sure to consult the Point Reyes National Park website for current information.
As of September 23, the area and all trails south of Limantour Road and Bear Valley Road, west of Highway 1 (aka Shoreline Highway), and north of Stewart Trail are closed to all visitor access until further notice.

WEEKEND ESCAPE at INVERNESS and POINT REYES NATIONAL SEASHORE, CA, Guest Post by Matt Arnold

Point Reyes National Seashore, California

Two weeks ago, taking advantage of their daughter being away at camp, my son Matt and his wife Kate escaped their busy life in Oakland, CA, for a short road trip to explore Inverness and the area around Point Reyes.  Here is Matt's report along with his excellent photos.
Surprisingly close to the Bay Area, you feel a world away in the coastal town of Inverness, entering a part of California that seems from another era. Just the drive to the coast is worth the trip. After leaving the East Bay, we utilized the Nicasio Valley Road route.  Other scenic options include taking Sir Francis Drake Blvd through San Rafael or going through Mill Valley and Stinson beach via Highway 1.

Once leaving the outskirts of San Rafael and turning off of the 101, you are immediately thrown into a series of alternating quintessential California landscapes--from rolling golden hills dotted with Oak trees, to windy roads dodging giant Redwoods, to coastal bluffs filled with scrub brush, to pastoral grazing lands for cattle. The long and windy road feels less long, surrounded by such serenity. 

Looking East across Tomales Bay from "downtown" Inverness

We stayed, via Air B & B, at a small studio in the heart of Inverness, one block from Tomales Bay and Chicken Ranch Beach, looking eastward across Tomales Bay.
The topography of the area is defined by the San Andreas fault, and the collision of the Pacific and North American tectonic plates that slice their way through the Pacific edge of California. The fault line runs from Bolinas and Stinson beach to the south, following Highway 1 and then diving back into the water, forming the large and narrow Tomales Bay (think Baja California but upside down.)

Forster's Terns at Abbott's Lagoon

To the west of this fault line is Point Reyes National Seashore. Here, there is a vast collection of trails leading across the ridge with pine and oak forests, down to wild bluffs, abandoned beaches, rugged coastline, and a series of tranquil lagoons and marshland, with extensive tidal flats. There is a series of roads that lead to several of these locations, though trail heads will take you quite quickly away from the busier outlooks.

Looking across Tomales Bay from Tomales Bay State Park

The towns of Inverness and nearby Point Reyes Station, personify what would best be termed the West Marin (County) aesthetic. There is a touch of what might be blamed on the hippie roots of the area, and words like free, organic, artistic--attached to the lansdcape--all seeming appropriate. On a gastronomic level, this area is the intersection of the foodie culture that originated in the Bay Area, (fresh/locally sourced/organic) and the bucolic Old Califronia (where this produce is actually grown). Many brands, which are familiar to Bay area foodies (Marin Sun Farms, Cowgirl Creamery, Nicasio Valley Cheese, Strauss Creamery, Tomales Bay Oysters, etc.) are all located in the surrounding pasture lands/tidal zones, with several outlets in Point Reyes Station to sample their wares. In addition, the restaurants all serve top notch foodie fare, with oysters on the half shell at even the smallest sandwich shops. It is really hard to eat a meal here that isn't absolutely delicious.

There are still a few working farms on the land, and cows grazing, harking back to a true California of old.

The town of Inverness sits right at the edge of the more wild Point Reyes National Seashore, and after you round the bend on Sir Francis Drake Blvd and leave town, you really feel like you are leaving much of civilization behind. The scenery can be breathtaking. Most of the land is wild, with amazing vistas stretching from the hills down to the tidal flats or cliffs on the coast.

Tidal flats photographed in black and white at Drake's Estuary

On our particular trip, after a good night's sleep Friday, we woke early on Saturday morning and set out to explore (via our ritual exercise) the trail system in Point Reyes. We picked up coffee and breakfast at the IP Market (short for Inverness Park), which offers an excellent deli/cafe bar in addition to normal market supplies. Lots of fresh baked goods, and options for sandwiches (later I had their amazing Tri-Tip sandwich). We went to Bear Valley trailhead where Kate took off on her Saturday run, with the trail gently climbing and then descending to the coast, where several trail options will get you to the beach. Here you can get to waterfalls that flow directly into the Pacific (I think called Tidal Falls). 

Several trails in Point Reyes allow bike riding.

While Kate ran, I took off on a bike ride. The trail riding is a little more limited, and many of the trails only allow bikes on certain portions (only half of the Bear Creek trail is open.) After consulting a map I tried to string a few of the trails together, needing to use a few park roads to skip between trails, but ended up with a very satisfying ride, with the trails almost all to myself for several hours.
After our respective exercise regimens were checked off the to-do list on some pretty cool trails, we headed back to our studio. Sandwiches were picked up at the IP market and we were able to enjoy these at Chicken Ranch Beach (did I mention the Tri Tip?) 

Even in mid-June there were still plenty of wildflowers in bloom.

After lunch, another trip into Point Reyes Seashore to explore more hiking trails took me to a short trail to Abbott's lagoon.This was recommended by our AirB & B host and it did not disappoint.

Wildflowers were in bloom on the trail down to the lagoon plus an impressive collection of birds; others on the trail had just seen river otters in the lagoon (though I missed out.)

Sand dunes await at the mouth of  Abbott's lagoon, which then stretch onto the actual coastline and Point Reyes Beach.

This is a great trail to see seabirds that dot the shores around the lagoon. Once at the actual ocean front, one could potentially walk up and down the sandy beach for miles.
Dinner that night was in Inverness at the Salt Water Oyster depot. Despite being at the edge of civilization, the food was excellent. We enjoyed the local oysters, as well as scallops, and clams (linguini) and shrimp (cassoulet). When in Rome...
Sunday morning arrived sooner than we would have wished, and after cleaning up and checking out, we had one last dive into the National Seashore trail system, this time at the Estero trail head to a system of trails (most of them bike-able) surrounding Drake's Estero. This offered more views of the tidal estuary along mostly brush covered coastline.

On the Estero trail we caught several white tail deer and their fawns as it was "fawn season".

Despite the decent weekend weather, and relative proximity to San Francisco, being in the park never felt crowded. Though Bear Valley Visitor Center does get busy (it is the closest trail head to SF), we were there early, and almost every other trail that we explored we had mostly to ourselves. There were miles of some trails where I did not see another soul. This sense of isolation, so close to home, was wonderfully refreshing.

A short hike at Tomales Bay State Park to Indian Beach led to several reproductions of cone shaped Miwok bark shelters as part of a cultural exhibit.

On the way out of the National Seashore, we had one more stop on the beach, this time hitting Tomales Bay State Park, carved into the western edge of the bay, taking a short hike from Hearts Desire Beach (which was full of picnickers, kayakers, and BBQ) to Indian Beach.

An unusual thistle like plant along the trail to Abbott's Lagoon

Unfortunately our weekend was coming to an end. Reversing course on Sir Francis Drake Blvd brought us back through Point Reyes Station where we stopped for lunch. Again, we ate well, as the comfort food prepared at Side Street Kitchen was simply amazing (oysters, pork Belly BLT, pulled pork sandwich, salad). We picked up some cheese to take home across the road at Cowgirl Creamery, and returned to civilization through Nicasio Valley back to Oakland.

Lupins along Drake's estuary along the Estero trail

Despite packing a lot into the weekend, we felt refreshed and recharged for the week ahead. It felt like we barely scratched the surface of Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay, and left wanting to return for more. In particular, the Tule Elk Preserve on the northern tip, on the way to Tomales point, as well as the more famous and picturesque lighthouse at the opposite end, are on the list of things to get to on our next visit, or even camp in the park. Another trip will have to be made to actually kayak on Tomales Bay (Blue Waters Kayak) as well.
With only a small amount of traffic leaving Oakland, it took us around 1 hour, 20 minutes to get from the Bay Area to Inverness and Point Reyes.  For a map of Point Reyes click HERE. I hope you enjoy this report and are able to experience this area of California for yourself.

Abandoned fishing boat providing the classic Inverness snapshot