NIAGARA FALLS STATE PARK: More Than Just Tumbling Torrents

Niagara Falls. View from the American side, looking toward the Canadian side of the river.

Welcome sign on Old Falls Street.

If the ancient Greeks had known about Niagara Falls, they would have added it to their list of Seven Wonders of the World. The sheer quantity of water—75,000 gallons per sec pouring over the edge--is impressive enough, not to mention the giant clouds of mist rising from the bottom of the gorge as the water lands.

The falls are formed as water from the Niagara River, which separates the United States from Canada as it makes its way from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, plunges into a deep gorge. 

Observation point on Goat Island of Horseshoe Falls.

In mid-July I joined the millions of visitors that come each year from all over the world to gaze in wonder at the falls. My husband was attending a conference in the Niagara Falls Convention Center on the American side. While he was at meetings, I had time to wander through the city of Niagara Falls and explore the park. I had my passport and could have crossed over the Rainbow Bridge to the Canadian side but decided not to on this trip because I had been there before. 

View from Goat Island of American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, viewing tower, and Rainbow Bridge.

Niagara Falls State Park borders the falls on the American side. The 435-acre New York state park was developed in 1885 by American artist Frederick Church and Frederick Law Olmstead, the landscape architect who also designed Central Park in New York City. He believed that natural spaces like Niagara Falls should be preserved for people to enjoy. The park includes miles of walking paths, beautiful gardens, as well as plenty of viewing and seating areas. It is also an opportunity for bird watching and other wildlife viewing. 

Scale model of Niagara river and falls, and Goat Island.

A scale model near the Welcome Center shows Goat Island, the two main cataracts, American Falls and Horseshoe Falls, and the smaller Bridal Veil Falls. A short pedestrian bridge connects Goat Island to the American side of the river. Paths on Goat Island lead to viewing points for all the falls. 

Hop-on, Hop-off trams are available to take people around the park.

The Welcome Center near the main entrance to the park has exhibits, restrooms, a cafe and gift shop.

I started my Niagara Falls visit at the Welcome Center near the entrance to the state park where there are displays highlighting the history of the area, beginning with the Native Americans who lived there long before the first Europeans came.

Acknowledgment is made that the park is on traditional indigenous lands.

There are also sections about Father Hennepin, who came with French fur traders, and Nikola Tesla, a major figure in the history of Niagara Falls. Tesla was the engineer who, along with George Westinghouse, figured out how to harness the energy of the falls to make electricity.

Statue of Nikola Tesla on Goat Island.

One can view Niagara Falls from both the American side Canadian sides of the river.

Maid of the Mist boat takes people to the base of the falls.

I limited myself to standing at the railing and looking at the falls from above. But many people take the Maid of the Mist boat ride for a close-up look at the base of the falls, wearing raincoats to keep dry as the boat gets close to the mist. 

A tether keeps the hot-air balloon from floating away.

Others view from a bridge over the water. And some go up in a hot air balloon. If you do this at night in the summer, you can see a light show and fireworks over the falls. (We could see and hear the fireworks from our hotel window.)

Along tree-lined Old Falls Street, which leads to the entrance of the park, visitors can enjoy giant chess boards, ping pong and other games.

Historical marker on Old Falls Street.

The city of Niagara Falls is designed for tourists with hotels, restaurants, and entertainment, all within walking distance of the state park. Reflecting the scope of international visitors, a wide range of eateries--including many featuring South Asian cuisines-- line the main street. 

Main gate of Niagara Falls State Park.

Within the park one can get around by walking, riding a bike, or taking a tram. Entrance to Niagara Falls State Park is free.

Thirty years ago, I visited Niagara Falls with my family, viewing the falls from the Canadian side. We went down an elevator to a path that allowed us to walk behind the falls. We stood on the walkway as the water roared past us, awing us with its power. On this trip I was no less impressed.

Map of Niagara Falls State Park.

For more information go to the Niagara Falls State Park website. 

REMEMBERING WILL ROGERS’ HOUSE-- Lost in the Palisades Fire, Los Angeles, CA

Will Rogers' House, Will Rogers State Historic Park, Los Angeles, CA.

“I never met a man I didn’t like.”—Will Rogers, cowboy, humorist, film star and commentator of the 1920s and 1930s.  He was a quintessential American.

Will Rogers’ house in Will Rogers State Park in Los Angeles, California, was one of the many victims of the recent catastrophic Palisades wildfire, which burned more than 23,000 acres and destroyed more than 1000 homes. It is gone forever. The park, with its historic house, horse stables, polo field, picnic area and hiking trails has been a favorite place to visit during the almost fifty years I have lived in Southern California. I loved the exhibits in the Visitor Center and the black and white films of Will Rogers doing rope tricks for the movies and telling jokes as a popular public speaker and commentator. I loved the guided tours of his home, filled with artifacts of his life—his saddle, colorful blankets, sculptures, and comfortable furniture. Every volunteer docent had their own stories to tell of Will Rogers and his family as they led the tour through the rooms of the house. I loved watching polo players on the field in front of the house. I loved hiking on the trails past the horse barns and corrals up to Inspiration Point, with its spectacular 360 degree view—from the Pacific Ocean to downtown Los Angeles. The wildflowers and native shrubs in the park will grow back in time, but the house and mementos of Will Rogers’ life can never be replaced. They remain only in pictures and our memories.

I have written about Will Rogers’ State Park twice on this blog, in March 2014 and June 2020. I am reposting here my report from 2014. 

Will Rogers House, Will Rogers State Park

When I have visitors in Los Angeles, one of my favorite places to take them is Will Rogers State Historic Park, the former home of the famous cowboy, humorist, film star and commentator of the 1920s and 1930s.  Tucked into the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains just north of Sunset Boulevard, the ranch style home looks out over a broad lawn (once used by Will’s friends to practice golf) and a large field where Will and his friends played polo. The field is still used for weekend matches and occasionally we take a picnic and sit on the sidelines and watch. A short walk from the house leads to the stables where Will once kept his horses.  According to Will, “A man that don’t love a horse, there is something the matter with him.” Today one can go for horse riding lessons and trail rides in the park.

Horses in one of the corrals

On a recent Sunday when my brothers were in town, we spent an afternoon at the park.  We began at the small museum adjacent to the house.  People of our parents' generation have fond memories of listening to Will Rogers on the radio, seeing him in movies, and reading his newspaper columns, but for most of us today Will Rogers is a historical figure. Will was born in 1879 of Cherokee and European descent. He was raised on a ranch in Oklahoma where he learned to ride and rope, skills that led him to perform in Wild West shows, and eventually brought him to Hollywood. He died in an airplane crash in Alaska in 1935. In the museum are photographs and exhibits and a wonderful video showing his amazing rope tricks and clips from some of his speeches. 

At Christmas time the house is decorated by volunteers

Thursday through Sunday, volunteers lead free tours of Will Rogers’ house, providing an opportunity to see his collection of Western art, hear some of the many stories about his life, and get a sense of the casual and comfortable style of life he preferred.  Despite his fame and wealth, Will did not live the glamorous life of other movie stars of the time. Instead, he entertained with casual barbecues and sing-a-longs and decorated his house in a homey, ranch style. 

View of Los Angeles from Inspiration Point, Will Rogers State Park

After our tour we set out for a walk on the loop trail up to Inspiration Point.  Following the dirt path past the stables, we wound our way uphill.  As we passed the corrals, a few friendly horses came over for a pat on the nose. Although the trail is not strenuous, I chose to loop the other way and met the rest of the group on their way back down.  I have been to the top many times and the view of the city and Pacific Ocean is impressive.

Will Rogers lived on the ranch from 1926 to 1935

Perhaps Will Rogers’ most famous quip was: “I never met a man I didn’t like.” His house and ranch reflect his generous spirit and love of the outdoors. After Will Rogers died, his daughter donated the house and ranch to the state of California so that it would be preserved as a state park. We are lucky she did.
For directions and information about visiting the park go to www.parks.ca.gov/willrogers .

11th ANNIVERSARY OF THE INTREPID TOURIST: Celebrating My New Book KEEPER OF THE LIGHT, Inspired by a Trip to Angel Island

Ferry landing at Angel Island State Park, San Francisco Bay, California

This week is the 11th anniversary of my first post at The Intrepid Tourist, a report of a family trip to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. I have continued to post a new article once a week since then. I still love to travel and sometimes, when I least expect it, a travel experience becomes the source of an idea for a new book.

I am dedicating this blog anniversary to the celebration of my new book, KEEPER OF THE LIGHT: Juliet Fish Nichols Fights the San Francisco Fog, that comes out this week and which was inspired by a visit to Angel Island State Park in San Francisco Bay ten years ago.

Tram ride around Angel Island

In July 2012, Art and I took a ferry from Tiburon to Angel Island to meet friends, who had sailed their boat from Alameda across San Francisco Bay to the harbor at Angel Island. We had a delicious lunch on the boat and then took a tram ride around the island, narrated along the way with historic details about the buildings and the people who once lived on the island, when it was the site of an army post, immigration facility, and a light and fog bell station. 

Point Knox, once site of the light and fog bell station. The giant bell remains.

Near an overlook on the south side of the island we heard about Juliet Nichols, the light keeper of the Angel Island lighthouse at Point Knox, who, during the summer of 1906, when the bay was filled with supply boats after the devastating San Francisco earthquake, heroically rang the fog bell by hand for more then twenty hours before the fog lifted.

Card catalogue, Oakland Public Library.

Juliet’s story intrigued me. It sounded like the perfect subject for a book. I began to research Juliet’s life and the history of Angel Island. I searched the internet. I went to the Oakland library to read newspaper articles and other items in the archives. (Juliet grew up in Oakland and lived there after she retired.) I looked up Census records on Ancestry.com . 

Angel Island Light House log book, 1904-1912. National Archives, Washington, DC.

I visited the National Archives in Washington, DC, to read Juliet’s lighthouse log. I went back to Angel Island several times. Although her house is gone, the giant bell can still be seen at Knox Point.

Keeper of the Light Illustration by Rachell Sumpter

It took me eight years and many rewrites to tell Juliet’s story, then two more years to see it published. I am thrilled that the book is now available and I can share it with the world. Keeper of the Light: Juliet Fish Nichols Fights the San Francisco Fog is published by Cameron Kids/Abrams and is illustrated with beautiful watercolor paintings by Rachell Sumpter. It is available at many book stores as well as Amazon and other online sources.

SAN CLEMENTE BEACH TRAIL: A Walk at the Edge of the Pacific

Beach trail at San Clemente State Beach, California

On a recent Sunday, when the temperature was in the 70s and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky (a perfect winter day in California) we met my brother (who lives in San Diego) for a walk at San Clemente Beach, located about half-way between Los Angeles and San Diego. The sea was as calm as I’ve ever seen it and the tide was coming in, washing away our footsteps as we walked, leaving the sand an unmarked slate.

The San Clemente Beach trail, located in the community of San Clemente, lies along a stretch of beach below high bluffs. This popular 2.3 mile long trail connects North Beach to Calafia Beach with stops along the way at the San Clemente Pier and T-Street. We parked at Calafia Beach, just below the San Clemente State Beach campground. Next to the parking lot are restrooms and picnic tables. (We paid the parking fee at an automated kiosk.)

Access to the beach is across the Amtrak railroad tracks. All along the trail, the tracks parallel the beach, although on the day we went, the only train we saw was unloading boulders to repair the breakwater that protects the tracks. (One wonders how the tracks will fare as the ocean level rises with global warming.)

After crossing the tracks, we walked south along the water’s edge. High above us, glass fronted houses perched at the top of the cliff. At the water's edge a grebe bobbed in the waves, diving periodically to hunt for fish. We passed a few human fishermen and other walkers (some with dogs), but, for the most part, the beach was empty—a perfect pandemic excursion.

Along most of the beach the sand was smooth--unlittered by shells, seaweed or other detritus. But in several places piles of small pebbles, tumbled smooth by the waves, clumped at the shore, revealing a surprising variation in color, reminding me of the agates and other stones I once polished in a rock tumbler to make jewelry.

By the time we returned to where we had started we were hungry, so we ate our picnic lunch at one of the tables overlooking the beach. It was a beautiful day to be out in the fresh air.

For more about the San Clemente Beach Trail and the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, click on this link. https://www.traillink.com/trail/san-clemente-beach-trail-/

 

THE LITTLE WHITE HOUSE: Roosevelt’s Retreat in Warm Springs, GA

52 Places to Go: Week 28

Franklin D. Roosevelt's "Little White House," Warm Springs, GA

Franklin D. Roosevelt first came to Warm Springs Georgia in 1924 in hopes that the warm waters of the natural springs there would help him recover from polio. Over the next twenty one years he came there many times, staying in the small white cottage he built on land he purchased nearby, which, during the years he was President (1932-1945) became known as the “Little White House.” It was there that he died on April 12, 1945, when he suffered a massive heart attack while sitting for a portrait by painter Elizabeth A. Shoumatoff.

Elizabeth A. Shoumatoff's unfinished portrait is on exhibit in the visitor center

Today Roosevelt’s house and a museum with mementos of his life in Warm Springs are open to the public. It is operated by the Georgia State Parks as a State Historic Site. The treatment pools where he swam can also be seen, along with exhibits about the kinds of therapy that was offered to victims of polio like Roosevelt.

Bullock House Restaurant

I visited Warm Springs when Art and I were in Georgia visiting relatives near Atlanta in May 2018. We took a day trip, arriving in time for lunch at Bullock House Restaurant on the town’s historic main street, choosing from a buffet of classic Southern foods including catfish, hush puppies, collard greens, fried chicken.

FDR was an avid stamp collector

After lunch our first stop was the Little White House Visitor Center, where we purchased our tickets and watched a short film before touring the museum. The museum is filled with items from Roosevelt’s personal life such as the 1938 Ford Convertible with hand controls, his stamp collection, his cane collection, and a 1930s kitchen with his “Fireside Chats” playing on the radio.

In a speech given January 6, 1941 Roosevelt insisted that people in all nations of the world shared Americans' entitlement to four freedoms: the freedom of speech and expression, the freedom to worship God in his own way, freedom from want and freedom from fear.

On one wall is a display of the Four Freedoms posters made from paintings by Norman Rockwell. They were used to promote the selling of war bonds during World War II. On another wall is a series of displays honoring Franklin’s wife Eleanor.

Eleanor Roosevelt

From the Visitor Center we went outside for the short walk to Roosevelt’s house, stopping at the guest house and servant’s quarters. Inside Roosevelt’s cottage, a very knowledgeable park ranger answered questions and helped us imagine what it was like when Roosevelt lived there.

Wheelchair fashioned by mounting a kitchen chair on wheels

The rooms inside the cottage are small and cozy and largely unchanged since Roosevelt’s time. A special wheelchair, small enough to fit through the narrow doorways sits in the corner; next to it is a statue of Fala, Roosevelt’s faithful dog.

Photographs of FDR at the Warm Springs Pools

A mile from the museum are the pools where Roosevelt went for therapy. No longer used, they have been drained but photos from the past show them full of people.  A small museum at the pools tell about the springs and the town’s history, including Roosevelt’s founding of the adjacent Roosevelt Warm Springs Institute.

The pools once used by FDR were replaced by an indoor pool closer to the treatment center.

A visit to Warm Springs is a trip back in time. It is one thing to read about FDR in the history books. It is another to walk in his footsteps. As the cover of the park brochure proclaims, a visit to Roosevelt’s Little White House is to experience the inspirational retreat of a man who changed America.
The Little White House is located 70 miles south of Atlanta, Georgia. For more information go to www.GeorgiaStateParks.org .

This article was first published on 7/16/18.

All text and photographs copyright Caroline Arnold.

JACK LONDON HISTORIC STATE PARK, Glen Ellen, CA

52 Places To Go: Week 23

The Cottage, Jack and Charmian London's home at their ranch in Glen Ellen, CA

Jack London (1876-1916), renowned author of Call of the Wild, White Fang, Sea Wolf and dozens of other novels, short stories, articles and poetry, is one of America’s most famous and prolific writers, as well as an adventurer, activist, and international celebrity. From 1905 to 1916, he and his wife, Charmian, lived on a property they called Beauty Ranch in Glen Ellen, California, about an hour and half north of San Francisco in the Sonoma Valley. This is where he wrote, operated a small farm demonstrating sustainable farming practices, and where Jack and Charmian built their dream house. Tragically, the house burned down shortly before they were to move in. After Jack's death in 1916, Charmian built another house, now restored as a museum at Jack London Historic State Park.

"Jack London Historical State Park. This is the “House of Happy Walls” built in 1919 by Charmian K. London in memory of her husband, Jack London, renowned author. Here are housed many of his works and the collection gathered in their travels throughout the world. Charmian’s house, the ruins of Jack’s “Wolf House,” and his grave were presented in 1960 to the state of California by his nephew, Irving Shepard."

In mid-May, when I was in Oakland, Art and I and our daughter spent a day at Jack London State Park, enjoying the fresh spring air and reacquainting ourselves with Jack London's literary legacy. The park had only recently opened after being closed due to Covid. It was a weekday, and when we arrived the parking lot was nearly empty. 

A shaded walkway leads to the Visitor Center

From the parking lot we did a short walk to the museum/visitor center, finding it filled with photos, video displays, books, mementos of Jack and Charmian’s extensive travels, and a peek into Charmian’s personal life--her dozens of shoes, piano, the decor of her kitchen and bathrooms. A friendly docent answered questions and managed the gift shop.

"As a child, Jack was a bright and voracious reader but his early years were spent in work. With what he called “dig,” Jack entered a short story contest sponsored by the local newspaper and won it. He enrolled in school and contributed several short stories to the school’s literary magazine. Later he withstood the pain of hundreds of rejection letters before winning worldwide fame."

Jack London's typewriter. "Jack’s daring explorations provided the fodder for his writing and the fuel for his spirit."

 

Jack London died in 1916 at the age of 40. His grave site, about a fifteen minute walk from the Visitor Center, is on a wooded hillside. A short distance away are the remains of Wolf House.

While I had long known about Jack London and his books, until this visit to his home I had been unaware of the role of his wife Charmian, who, I discovered, was just as bold and adventurous as he was. She edited Jack's work and was an author in her own right. She outlived Jack by nearly forty years, and died in 1955.

"Charmian K. London defied every expectation of the Victorian female. Obedient and chaste? Never. She was bold and free. Soul of a rebel. Kicking aside the convention that women must ride side saddle, Charmian chose to gallup astride. Every bit Jack’s equal in terms of adventure and intellect, she redefined a woman’s place."

Wolf House.

After viewing the exhibits at the museum we followed the path through the woods to the grave sites of Jack and Charmian, and from there to the ruins of their grand house. 

A swimming pool was to be the center of the house.

Built of stone, the remaining walls and chimneys of Wolf House look more like a medieval castle than a private home. Surrounded by towering redwoods, the house would have been an ideal retreat from city life. We climbed onto a platform that gave a view through the open doors and windows and a diagram of the layout, which included a swimming pool overlooked by a balcony.

Remains of farm buildings of Beauty Ranch.
Beyond the fence vineyards climb the Sonoma hills.

After our walk to the grave site and house, we returned to the parking lot and drove into Glen Ellen (a few minutes away) for a delicious lunch of sandwiches and pastries on the patio of Les Pascales, a French boulangerie. When we returned to the state park, we parked on the other side of the entrance for a tour of the Cottage  and of the remains of the farm buildings. During the years before Jack's death, he and Charmian lived in the cottage when they weren't traveling. Because of Covid, only one family group was allowed inside the Cottage buildings at a time for tours led by extremely knowledgeable volunteer docents. The rooms are preserved with furniture and decorations as they were when the Londons lived there.

The bed in the corner of the Cottage screen porch is where Jack London died.

View from the screen porch to the front garden and fish pond.