YOSEMITE VALLEY IN WINTER: Surprisingly Warm and Uncrowded

Upper Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park

Earlier this past year I signed up for a conference in Yosemite for the first weekend in February, expecting to see the mountains covered in white and to hike or snowshoe along icy trails. Instead, an unusually warm and dry winter in California made the weather seem more like spring and the only patches of snow were on high north facing slopes. It turned out to be a perfect time to visit the park.

On the valley floor

This was my second trip to Yosemite National Park in the past year. In contrast to last summer, when the valley was flooded with snow-melt filled rivers and waterfalls were thundering down the rock walls, the atmosphere on my recent trip was much more peaceful. While there was still plenty of water coming over the waterfalls, the river had returned to its banks, and there were far fewer visitors. The scenery was spectacular as always.

Tunnel View of El Capitan with Half Dome in the distance

My conference was held at Tenaya Lodge, just outside the park’s Wawona entrance. My friend Gretchen and I came a day early so we could enjoy the beauty of the park before the meetings began. The next morning we drove to the park entrance where we picked up a map and chatted with the ranger. We then continued on Highway 41 through the park (about an hour’s drive) to Yosemite Valley, getting our first impressive view of the valley as we exited the tunnel. The morning light was just making its way over the rim of the canyon walls, framing a distant view of Half Dome. The air was crisp and clear and the view was breathtaking.

Valley View at Cathedral Beach

We proceeded down to the bottom of the valley, making our way to the one-way road that circles the valley, stopping for views of Yosemite Falls and taking a short hike to view Bridal Veil Falls up close.
After parking our car at Yosemite Village, we toured the Visitor Center, which is filled with excellent displays explaining the geological history of the park as well as its natural and human history. (Compared to last summer, we had no trouble finding places to park and there were relatively few people.)

Sculpture of John Muir inside the Visitor Center

We ate our picnic lunch at a table outside the café near the Visitor Center, enjoying the sunshine and warm temperatures. We then visited the Ansel Adams Gallery, filled with prints by the photographer who helped make Yosemite famous. The gallery also had an excellent selection of books as well as a variety of beautiful hand-made art objects.

Beginning of trail to Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and John Muir Trail

We wanted to do a moderate hike and decided to follow the trail to the Vernal Fall bridge. It was more uphill than we had expected, but after multiple stops to catch our breath we finally made it to the bridge. Other hikers told us that the trail up to the falls was even steeper than the one we had come on! 

View toward Vernal Fall from the bridge over the Merced River

We could see the falls up the creek in the distance and decided that was enough of a view. The hike back to the trailhead, almost all downhill, was much easier! There we caught one of the shuttle buses that circle the park, which took us back to Half Dome Village parking lot where we had left our car. It was time to return to our hotel and get ready for our conference. It had been a lovely, warm winter day.

Post Office in Yosemite Village

MORE POSTS ABOUT YOSEMITE
See my posts about previous visits to Yosemite in October 2016 and June 2017.

WRITERS' and ARTISTS' HIDEOUTS: Great Getaways for Seducing the Muse by Andrea Brown

The Berwood Hill Inn, Lanesboro, MN

Writers’ and Artists’ Hideouts: Great Getaways for Seducing the Muse is a wonderful guidebook to inns and hotels where you can find peace and quiet and inspiration for your work.  But even if you are not a writer, these are great places to relax and get away from the hurly burly of daily life.  Combined with advice from editors, literary agents, authors, illustrators, art directors, and other creative people, this is a great resource for all of us who sometimes want to get away.  Here are some excerpts from Andrea’s introduction to the book: 

My friend and agent Andrea Brown’s book

     Many of my most memorable life experiences are times when I left the comforts of home, took off by myself, and escaped to a scenic, peaceful place to do some serious thinking or some serious writing.
     Solitude can be bliss, but, for myself and many other creative people, it is a necessity.  Since I began working in the book publishing business in 1976, I have listened to numerous authors and illustrators complain about working at home–as most writers and artists do.  Distractions at home often involve spousal demands, children with needs, pets to feed, ringing phones, chores to finish, refrigerators to raid, and on and on.  Even the most disciplined and organized find it a constant challenge.  If a writer or artist is under deadline, the pressure can be enormous.
     I am lucky enough to have built a career that allows me to indulge in my travel passion.  Over the years, I have kept notes and brochures on my favorite places for those times when I needed to decamp to recharge my enthusiasm or to simply get the creative juices flowing. I often make friends swear they won’t divulge the names of some of these prized locations, as I don’t want them getting too crowded.  But, after hearing more and more writers and artists complain about needing a special place to which they might escape, I decided to share my findings.
     That’s what this book is, a roster of special places; a guide to the wonderful, the beautiful, the relaxing.  In these pages you will find sites that are as good for the eye as they are for the soul, from small cabins and hostels to luxurious hotels–and I’ve even included a hotel or motel chain if it meets my criteria.
     The book is organized by region.  Many locations included in this book are not on the beaten path, yet I have tried to narrow the selection to places that are welcoming and safe, especially for women who may be traveling alone. I have included places in major cities that are easy to reach without a car.  For instance, if you live in New York City, find it difficult to work at home, and don’t want to travel far, I suggest comfortable and reasonable places in Manhatten.  It can be especially fun to stay in a hotel in your very own city if only for a change of scenery.
     So, let loose!  From the rustic Red Fish Lake Lodge in Idaho to a luxurious oceanfront room at the Marriot Wailea-Outrigger Hotel in Maui; from a cabin on an ocean cliff at Lucia Lodge in Big Sur to the Gramercy Park Hotel in New York City, explore your creative self, meet those dealines, grab some peace of mind, and arrive home refreshed and rejuvenated.

As I leafed through the hundreds of listings in Andrea’s book, I looked for places that I have stayed on my travels and found several of my favorites, including The Redwoods in Yosemite National Park, where one can rent a cabin up to a large house, a perfect place for a getaway or a family reunion inside one of our most spectacular national parks; the Suncatcher Bed and Breakfast in Tucson, Arizona, located just outside the Sonora National Monument with its many trails and opportunities to enjoy desert wildlife; and the Chalet Kileauea, The Inn at Volcano on Hawaii’s Big Island, in the perfect central location for exploring the craters and lava flows of Volcanoes National Park.  And, now that I have Andrea's book, I have found many more tempting places to go!

Writers’ and Artists’ Hideouts: Great Getaways for Seducing the Muse by Andrea Brown (Quill Driver Books, 2005) is available on Amazon or you can call 1-800-497-4909 to order a copy.