BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG: Reliving History at Gettysburg, Pennsylvania

52 Places to Go: Week 27

Reliving History

The hot July sun beat down on the sloping field in southern Pennsylvania, just as it had on July 1-3, 1863 when the Battle of Gettysburg was fought in this quiet farm community just north of the Mason-Dixon line. I wished we had brought parasols like those I saw carried by the hoop-skirted ladies hovering at the edge of the crowd. Directly in front of us, on the stubble of cut hay, we watched gray uniformed Union soldiers loading their cannons. On the other side, beyond a stone wall, Confederate soldiers, armed with their own cannons and muskets, lined up their ammunition while drummer boys and flag bearers got ready to lead the charge. The regiment doctor, his white apron already stained, prepared to treat the wounded.

History was repeating itself--or so it seemed. This time, however, the soldiers and ladies dressed in 1860's attire were actors playing parts. Observers sat safely on bleachers or stood along the sidelines while the action was narrated over a loudspeaker. (The announcer also filled us in on background information--a benefit for people like me who were a bit rusty on Civil War history.)

KA-BOOM! The first cannon volley thundered across the field and smoke billowed skyward. Soldiers marched forward and fell in battle. KA-BOOM! KA-BOOM! KA-BOOM! For nearly an hour the cannons boomed and muskets fired with deafening realism. When the attack was over “victims” jumped up unharmed and the soldiers, sweltering in their authentic woolen uniforms, guzzled Gatorade.

Pickett's Charge

We were outside the small town of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, at the reenactment of Pickett’s Charge, an authentic recreation of this pivotal Civil War battle presented by Gettysburg Living History Inc., one of several living history companies that stage Civil War events in Gettysburg. Every year during the 4th of July weekend thousands of Civil War reenactors from all over the United States congregate in Gettysburg to recreate events ranging from battles and drill competitions to medical demonstrations and fife and drum concerts. They also put on fashion shows, art exhibits, impersonations, and talks. Some events are free while others require tickets.

For my family, watching and talking with the reenactors was an ideal opportunity to visualize history as it happened. Dressed in authentic clothing and living in a tent encampment for the long weekend, the reenactors at Herr’s Ridge lived and breathed the history of the Civil War era. Although there are excellent exhibits at the National Park Visitor Center and other museums in town nothing makes history more real than meeting people who have incorporated it into their lives.

What the Women Wore

When the battle was over the announcer invited us to walk on the battlefield and through the encampment. While the men in our group examined weapons and cannonballs, my daughter and I were much more interested in talking with the women. Many wore elaborate costumes, varying from hoop skirts and sheer dimity summer dresses to more practical shirtwaists and sunbonnets. We learned that women reenactors had to carefully research their costumes to make sure that each part was consistent both with the time period and their character’s age and social class. Snoods, or hairnets, for instance, were only worn by young women during that period and were a kind of fashion fad.

We chatted with two women whose husbands had been on the battlefield. Both said they had been drawn into reenacting by their husbands’ military interest but once “bitten by the bug” it was hard to resist becoming an enthusiastic participant. Weekends such as this one were family events and included children who were also dressed in period clothing.

When we asked about the authenticity of women and children at this event we got a short history lesson on women’s participation in the Civil War. While most women stayed at home during the Civil War, maintaining the family farm or business while their husbands were fighting, many wives followed the camps, especially if their own homes had been destroyed by the war and they had no relatives to take them in. In a few cases, women disguised themselves as men, and fought as soldiers. If they were discovered, they were evicted from camp and lucky not to be shot for treason.

Sutlers and Vendors

At the Herr’s Ridge battlefield we also visited the area designated for sutlers and vendors. A “sutler,” I learned, is a person who follows an army for the purpose of selling the troops provisions, liquor, etc. The tented sutler and vendor booths contained everything from modern day food and drink to genuine and authentic reproduction Civil War uniforms and weapons. Reenactors are expected to be completely accurate down the stitching on the uniforms.

Vendors also sold women and children’s clothing, household goods and toys of the period. In a booth that specialized in jewelry I learned another new word, “chatelaine,” an ornamental clasp that the mistress of a house wore at her waist and which had hooks for attaching keys to the pantry, a watch, and perhaps a small purse. The chatelaine we examined was of chased silver and clearly meant as a status symbol as well as a practical item.

Steeping Yourself in History

If you want to thoroughly steep yourself in the Civil War era you can stay in the recently renovated historic Gettysburg Hotel and eat at the Dobbin House Tavern. Other area attractions include the National Park Service Visitor Center and Cyclorama on Taneytown Road, tours of Dwight Eisenhower’s farm (tickets and shuttle from the Visitor Center), and the national cemetery across from the Visitor Center.
If you like your history dramatized, you should plan your trip to Gettysburg so that it includes a summer weekend. Reenactments of various kinds of Civil War events occur on almost every weekend between May and October. Another way to put drama into your trip is to tour the battlefields by trolley. The tour guide plays the part of several Civil War characters. (We chose instead to buy the Auto Tape Tour at the National Civil War Wax Museum, 297 Steinwehr Avenue, for a self tour so that we could visit at our own pace.)

Getting there: Fly to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania and then go by car to Gettysburg. (South on 15 from Harrisburg, exiting on US 30 to Gettysburg. A scenic 39 mile drive.)
Current Gettysburg information: Gettysburg go to http://www.gettysburgaddress.com. Click on reenactments for current information.

This article was first posted 4/13/11.  The trip occurred in July 1997. For a few more pictures from the trip click HERE. You can find information about current reenactments at Gettysburg by searching the web.

All text and photographs copyright Caroline Arnold.

CELEBRATING SEVEN YEARS OF TRAVEL at THE INTREPID TOURIST

With my family at Gettysburg, PA, July 1997

Seven years ago today, on April 13th, 2011, I published the first post on THE INTREPID TOURIST. Since then there have been more than 300 posts, published once a week, usually on Monday. My first post was inspired by a family trip to Gettysburg where we witnessed a reenactment of the Battle of Herr's Ridge, complete with all the noise, smoke, (no actual ammunition), soldiers and their families. I had written the article shortly after our visit in 1997 but it had never been published. So, I decided to use it to launch the blog.

Reenactors at Gettysburg included families of the soldiers dressed in clothing of the time

I thank all of you, my loyal readers, for your encouragement and interest through the years. And I thank all my guest posters for adding their unique experiences and trips to far away places.
Happy Traveling for another year!

Our tickets gave us a close-up view of the battle (the year on the ticket is incorrect--it was 1997)

Stone Mountain, Georgia: The Mount Rushmore of the South

Stone Mountain State Park (August 2011)
History, Nature, and Family Fun

View of Stone Mountain and the Confederate Memorial Carving from terrace of Visitor Center

Fifteen miles east of downtown Atlanta, a monolithic granite dome rises out of the Georgia landscape.  Surrounded by woods, streams, and a large, man-made lake, Stone Mountain and the Confederate Memorial Carving on its surface are the center of a popular state park featuring hiking trails; boat, train, and cable-car rides; a ropes course for kids and adventurous adults; miniature and regular golf; two hotels, a campground, and more.  We recently returned from a family reunion in Stone Mountain State Park.  With family members ranging in from ages three to ninety, there was something in the park for everyone.

A Giant Carving

Confederate Memorial Carving on Stone Mountain (L to R: Davis, Lee, Jackson)

The most famous feature of Stone Mountain is the giant carving on the side of the rock depicting three heroes of the Civil War Confederacy: General Robert E. Lee, General Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson (so-named because he was said to stand as firm as a stone wall in battle), and Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States.  The entire carved surface, the size of three football fields, makes it the largest bas-relief carving in the world.  The three men are shown astride their favorite horses, Blackjack (Davis), Traveller (Lee), and Little Sorrel (Jackson).  The horses are so big that during the construction of the monument, workers could take shelter from rainstorms in the horses’ open mouths.

A Long History

Reproduction of the head of Blackjack, one of the horses on the monument

The idea for a monument to Southern heroes of the Civil War was launched in 1916 by the United Daughters of the Confederacy, who bought the side of the mountain and hired sculptor Gutzon Borglum to do the carving.  However, after eight years, he abandoned the project and left to carve Mount Rushmore in South Dakota. Meanwhile, the Great Depression and World War II halted further work.  It was not until 1958, after the state of Georgia bought Stone Mountain and the surrounding land and turned it into a state park, that the project was resumed and completed by two other sculptors, Walter Hancock and Roy Faulkner.  (The work previously done by Borglum’s team was blasted off the mountain and the new carvers started over!)  The monument was finished and dedicated in 1970 by Vice President Spiro Agnew.

Fireworks on the Mountain

Lasershow Spectacular at Stone Mountain

Directly in front of the mountain, the terrace of the visitor center provides the best view of the carving.  Inside the visitor center, we watched a video about the history of making the memorial, got an overview of the impact of the Civil War on the communities around Stone Mountain, and found out about various aspects of the mountain’s human, natural and geologic history. A large lawn slopes down from the visitor center to the base of the rock.  Terraces on either side are dedicated to the states that were members of the confederacy.  In summer, and on weekend evenings, a laser show with fireworks draws thousands of picnickers to the lawn.  While one can rent chairs on the terraces for the evening, we sat on blankets on the grass to watch the performance.

Sky Hike and Other Activities

Traversing a beam at the Sky Hike

For the kids in our group, the highlight of the trip was the Sky Hike, a three level ropes and balancing course.  My personal role was to stay on the ground and take pictures!  Safety harnesses insured that everyone stayed safe as they made their way across various ropes, ladders and narrow plank bridges.  It is not an activity for anyone who doesn’t like heights! [Note: closed toe shoes are required for the Sky Hike.  This prompted a quick trip to Target for the kids to buy appropriate shoes since they had only brought sandals.]  We also played miniature golf and watched a glass-blowing demonstration.  Other members of the group took the train ride around the base of the mountain, went on the “Duck” (an amphibious vehicle tour of the park), rode the cable car to the top of the mountain, and did driving tours.  And everyone enjoyed the swimming pool at the hotel!  It was August, and with temperatures in the nineties and high humidity, the pool was the perfect place to be at the end of the afternoon.

Glass blowing demonstration

Practicalities: A vehicle fee of $10 is required for entrance to the park.  Most attractions in the park (except for the laser show) require a ticket. If you plan to do two or more, it is better to buy a one-day pass (adults $27 plus tax, child $21 plus tax).  If you buy the pass at the hotel, you get two days for the price of one.
We were there on a weekend.  We noticed that lines to get into attractions were much shorter on Sunday than on Saturday, when the kids had to wait nearly an hour to get onto the ropes course.  On Sunday morning, there was almost no wait.
We stayed at the Stone Mountain Inn (a Marriott Hotel), which is close to the Visitor Center and attractions.  At the other end of the park near the golf course is the Evergreen Marriott Resort and Conference Center.  

Historic grist mill at the picnic area

Battle of Gettysburg

Reliving History (July 1997)

The hot July sun beat down on the sloping field in southern Pennsylvania, just as it had on July 1-3, 1863 when the Battle of Gettysburg was fought in this quiet farm community just north of the Mason-Dixon line. I wished we had brought parasols like those I saw carried by the hoopskirted ladies hovering at the edge of the crowd. Directly in front of us, on the stubble of cut hay, we watched gray uniformed Union soldiers loading their cannons. On the other side, beyond a stone wall, Confederate soldiers, armed with their own cannons and muskets, lined up their ammunition while drummer boys and flag bearers got ready to lead the charge. The regiment doctor, his white apron already stained, prepared to treat the wounded.

History was repeating itself--or so it seemed. This time, however, the soldiers and ladies dressed in 1860's attire were actors playing parts. Observers sat safely on bleachers or stood along the sidelines while the action was narrated over a loudspeaker. (The announcer also filled us in on background information--a benefit for people like me who were a bit rusty on Civil War history.)

KA-BOOM! The first cannon volley thundered across the field and smoke billowed skyward. Soldiers marched forward and fell in battle. KA-BOOM! KA-BOOM! KA-BOOM! For nearly an hour the cannons boomed and muskets fired with deafening realism. When the attack was over “victims” jumped up unharmed and the soldiers, sweltering in their authentic woolen uniforms, guzzled Gatorade.

Pickett's Charge

We were outside the small town of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, at the reenactment of Pickett’s Charge, an authentic recreation of this pivotal Civil War battle presented by Gettysburg Living History Inc., one of several living history companies that stage Civil War events in Gettysburg. Every year during the 4th of July weekend thousands of Civil War reenactors from all over the United States congregate in Gettysburg to recreate events ranging from battles and drill competitions to medical demonstrations and fife and drum concerts. They also put on fashion shows, art exhibits, impersonations, and talks. Some events are free while others require tickets.

For my family, watching and talking with the reenactors was an ideal opportunity to visualize history as it happened. Dressed in authentic clothing and living in a tent encampment for the long weekend, the reenactors at Herr’s Ridge lived and breathed the history of the Civil War era. Although there are excellent exhibits at the National Park Visitor Center and other museums in town nothing makes history more real than meeting people who have incorporated it into their lives.

What the Women Wore

When the battle was over the announcer invited us to walk on the battlefield and through the encampment. While the men in our group examined weapons and cannonballs, my daughter and I were much more interested in talking with the women. Many wore elaborate costumes, varying from hoopskirts and sheer dimity summer dresses to more practical shirtwaists and sunbonnets. We learned that women reenactors had to carefully research their costumes to make sure that each part was consistent both with the time period and their character’s age and social class. Snoods, or hairnets, for instance, were only worn by young women during that period and were a kind of fashion fad.

We chatted with two women whose husbands had been on the battlefield. Both said they had been drawn into reenacting by their husbands’ military interest but once “bitten by the bug” it was hard to resist becoming an enthusiastic participant. Weekends such as this one were family events and included children who were also dressed in period clothing.

When we asked about the authenticity of women and children at this event we got a short history lesson on women’s participation in the Civil War. While most women stayed at home during the Civil War, maintaining the family farm or business while their husbands were fighting, many wives followed the camps, especially if their own homes had been destroyed by the war and they had no relatives to take them in. In a few cases, women disguised themselves as men, and fought as soldiers. If they were discovered, they were evicted from camp and lucky not to be shot for treason.

Sutlers and Vendors

At the Herr’s Ridge battlefield we also visited the area designated for sutlers and vendors. A “sutler,” I learned, is a person who follows an army for the purpose of selling the troops provisions, liquor, etc. The tented sutler and vendor booths contained everything from modern day food and drink to genuine and authentic reproduction Civil War uniforms and weapons. Reenactors are expected to be completely accurate down the stitching on the uniforms.

Vendors also sold women and children’s clothing, household goods and toys of the period. In a booth that specialized in jewelry I learned another new word, “chatelaine,” an ornamental clasp that the mistress of a house wore at her waist and which had hooks for attaching keys to the pantry, a watch, and perhaps a small purse. The chatelaine we examined was of chased silver and clearly meant as a status symbol as well as a practical item.

Steeping Yourself in History

If you want to thoroughly steep yourself in the Civil War era you can stay in the recently renovated historic Gettysburg Hotel and eat at the Dobbin House Tavern. Other area attractions include the National Park Service Visitor Center and Cyclorama on Taneytown Road, tours of Dwight Eisenhower’s farm (tickets and shuttle from the Visitor Center), and the national cemetery across from the Visitor Center.
If you like your history dramatized, you should plan your trip to Gettysburg so that it includes a summer weekend. Reenactments of various kinds of Civil War events occur on almost every weekend between May and October. Another way to put drama into your trip is to tour the battlefields by trolley. The tour guide plays the part of several Civil War characters. (We chose instead to buy the Auto Tape Tour at the National Civil War Wax Museum, 297 Steinwehr Avenue, for a self tour so that we could visit at our own pace.)

Getting there: Fly to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania and then go by car to Gettysburg. (South on 15 from Harrisburg, exiting on US 30 to Gettysburg. A scenic 39 mile drive.)
Current Gettysburg information: Gettysburg go to http://www.gettysburgaddress.com. Click on reenactments for current information.