THE BAVARIAN CASTLES OF KING LUDWIG II, Guest Post by Ann Whitford Paul

Linderhof Castle, Bavaria.

Many thanks to my friend Ann Whitford Paul for sharing her visit to the Bavarian castles built by Ludwig II. Ann is a world traveler and a frequent contributor to The Intrepid Tourist.

A screen saver picture on my computer was my inspiration to visit the Bavarian castles, built by Ludwig II, also known as  Mad King Ludwig. Being shy, he was always uncomfortable ruling but enjoyed the perks and wealth that came with his position. He was passionate about art and architecture.

Although his reign lasted only 23 years, he left behind three castles, each unique and worth a visit. Although photos were not permitted inside you can get an idea of their style, each one radically different, from the outside photos. Tours are worth taking and in the smaller castles each lasts about 30 minutes

Fountain sculpture, Linderhof Castle.

The first castle I saw was Linderhof, a rococo-style castle, small by today’s standards with only one bedroom because Ludwig was so painfully shy, he preferred to be alone. As you can see from my photos, the setting is beautiful and wild. I loved walking up the many steps facing the castle to get the full view.

Courtyard, Neuschwanstein Castle.

However, I did not love walking up to see Neuschwanstein Castle built in the medieval style that was the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella’s Castle. 

Neuschwanstein Castle

Horse drawn carriages will take one there for 8 euros a person. I, wanting to prove to that I could do it, started along the one mile and nearly straight up path, but on an uneven patch of gravel fell flat on my face. Want proof? 

After the fall.

Fortunately, no broken bones! But my walking wasn’t over. Inside this castle there were many stairs to climb.

Ann at Castle Hohenschwngau

Last, but certainly not least, was the grand Castle Hohenschwangau, the same size as the Palais Versailles in France. Although it was never completed, the rooms that were are opulent each with huge, different-styled chandeliers. I couldn’t help feel for the poor peasants who had to stand on tall ladders to light the hundreds of candles, and then later clean away the melted wax. By far the most breathtaking room was the grand Hall of Mirrors, bright with gold leaf and a full city block long.

I have seen other castles, but these Bavarian ones are so beautifully maintained, with almost totally original furnishings, paintings, and tapestries, they’re well worth the visit. The  surrounding scenic Alps, small quaint towns, and large lakes are an added plus. I was so inspired by the area’s history that I have been reading up on Ludwig II. He may have been mad, but he left three remarkable castles for future generations to admire and cherish.

CRUISING THE RHINE, Part 1: Castles, Churches, Cuckoo Clocks and More, Guest Post by Monique McLay Shore

Windmills of Kinderduik

My friend and fellow Grinnellian, Monique McLay Shore, went on a one-week cruise of the Rhine River last May with her mother and sister Deidre. I thank her for sharing her report and excellent photos with The Intrepid Tourist. This post is adapted from Monique’s day by day reports she wrote on Facebook during the trip. It is in two parts—Days 1-4 this week, followed by Days 5-7 next week.

Viking River Cruise on the Rhine

Day 1: May 15

We arrived in Amsterdam around 8am so had the full day to explore the ship and a bit of the city. Then after an amazing dinner on board, Deidre and I did a sunset canal tour that offered beautiful views as we nibbled on wine and cheese. 

Amsterdam

This morning we awoke to a new view - the windmills if Kinderdijk. Looking forward to exploring them up close today before we cruise further up river.

Day 2: May 16

Day 2 of our mother daughters Viking cruise started with the classic visit to the windmills in Kinderdijk. The boat tour offered stunning views of the UNESCO World Heritage site. We got a tour of the oldest of the mills, including the miller climbing up the blade to demonstrate how they open the sails (wooden shoes and all). 

Climbing the sails of the windmill.

The rest of the day was spent on the ship as we cruised up river to Germany, where we officially entered the Rhine River. We enjoyed some time on the sundeck, then some nice Danish treats and coffee. We have been especially tickled by the variety of animals you see along the sandy shores of the river - cows, sheep, horses and even camels(there's a camel farm!) lying on the beach and wading in the water.

Day 3: May 17

We arrived in Cologne midmorning today. It's a big city with a big cathedral and big crowds. Saturday is peak tourist day and the area around the cathedral was so crowded it made it hard to enjoy the sightseeing. We did, however, enjoy the "only available in Cologne" kolsch beer and some very good schnitzel and sausage. After lunch Deidre headed back to the cathedral and did a tour climbing all the stairs to the top! 

Mom and I opted for a rickshaw ride and lucked out with the most delightful young woman as our driver/guide. When we told her we were absolutely done with the crowds and wanted to see some quiet corners of Cologne, she took us through some side streets to a lovely church with a courtyard garden filled with beautiful roses. She'd stop along the way to share tidbits and stories. She succeeded in transforming our memories of Cologne from bad to delightful.

After dinner there were a couple of incredibly talented local musicians playing classical guitar and violin in the ship lounge.

Day 4: May 18

Today we awoke in the shadow of a castle, wandered the quiet streets of Braubach (extra quiet as all the shops are closed on Sundays), then spent the afternoon sailing through the narrow stretch of the middle Rhine where there is nearly always a castle in sight. It was overcast and cool for much of the time, which made the afternoon sharing of Rudesheim Coffee (with brandy and chocolate) all the more welcome.

The sun finally came out for the last few castles and it was glorious! I loved seeing the quaint and picturesque towns that line the shores and reveled in the thought of camping beneath the walls of a castle (there are tons of campgrounds all along the river with adorable small campers, often with giant "tent" porches).

The other notable thing in this area are the vineyards that cover the steep inclines. This is where the majority of the grapes used for Riesling wine come from, harvested by hand by workers who often have a rope around their waist to keep them from falling! We ended the day with a walk into the small town of Rudesheim, with a giant Ferris Wheel and a river walk lined with some very unique trees.

Tomorrow we'll cruise through the most scenic section of the river with something like 30 castles or castle ruins. The weather looks good for another great day. 

Look for Part 2, Days 5-7, next week.