ARIZONA WHIRLWIND, Part 3: Antelope Canyon and Grand Canyon, Guest Post by Owen Floody

Upper Antelope Canyon, Arizona

Our friend Owen Floody traveled in Arizona last September.  Owen recently retired from a career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken numerous trips that allow him to pursue his passion. Here is the third part of a reflection on his Arizona trip and some of his excellent photographs.
 
So far, my tour had proceeded remarkably smoothly.  But an unpleasant surprise met me in Page, where I expected easy access to the two slot canyons (the Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons) that are one of this area's major draws.  Unfortunately, it turns out that nearly all access to the canyons is now limited to guided tours, most of which are filled well in advance, at least in the busier times of the year.  All of this may be especially true of the more popular upper canyon.  Here, it seems essential to reserve a place on a general (1 hr, $25-40) or photographic (2 hr, $80) guided tour.  In addition to their greater length, guides privilege photo tours by directing traffic so as to give their participants the best unobstructed views of the convoluted rock walls and of the amazing colors that can develop there, especially when the sun is relatively high. 

Upper Antelope Canyon, Arizona

At the time of my visit, the situation in Lower Antelope Canyon was a little different.  Again, most visitors are enlisted in 1-hr non-photographic guided tours.  Well-equipped (DSLR plus tripod) photographers, however, were permitted to purchase a "photographic pass" that allowed one to wander unguided for 2 hr.  This was a great experience, though it sounded as though the tour operator may have been in the process of phasing it out. For a time after my arrival in Page, it looked as though I would strike out completely.  Luck intervened, however, providing an open photographic pass to the lower canyon and a late cancellation of a reservation for a photographic tour of the upper. I thoroughly enjoyed both.  

The upper canyon is larger and easier to negotiate, but is much more popular and crowded.  The lower is generally more narrow, with some especially narrow bottlenecks.  It also involves more elevation changes, some effected by steep metal stairs.  On the other hand, it is much less heavily visited and may make for the more relaxing and enjoyable tour.  Importantly though, both canyons come through with the amazing patterns and colors for which they are known.

Grand Canyon, Arizona

The final stop on my circuit was, not surprisingly, the Grand Canyon.  Here, I needed to stay in the campground to secure a place in Canyon Village, close to the canyon and its viewpoints, something that was especially important in stalking sunrises and sunsets.  In fact, much of my time was spent looking for the perfect viewpoints from which these events could be viewed. The fact is that most or all of the viewpoints offer stunning views, and at most or all times of the day.  Also, I found the sunrises and sunsets to be complicated by a canyon so deep as to create big differences between the times at which the  illumination would change near the rim versus floor. 

Grand Canyon at Sunset

In general, this trip perfectly illustrated the advantages and disadvantages of a whirlwind tour.  On the one hand, I was able to see a lot in a short time, including many major parks and attractions.  On the other, I could easily have at least doubled the time spent at each of these sites and still not exhausted all that they have to offer.

 

YELLOWSTONE IN WINTER: Part 1, Guest Post by Owen Floody

Yellowstone Falls illuminated by moonlight

Last January, our friend Owen Floody went on a photo tour of Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming.  Owen recently retired from a career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken several trips that allow him to pursue his passion. Here is a short reflection on his Yellowstone trip and a few of his excellent photographs. (Part 2 will post next week.)

On the basis of images in books (especially those by Tom Murphy) and related TV shows, I have long wanted to visit Yellowstone National Park during the winter.  I finally realized this ambition during a 2-week vacation in January, 2014.  I can only describe the environment and resulting experience as magical. 

During the first half of my trip, I participated in a photo tour offered by Yellowstone Expeditions (www.yellowstoneexpeditions.com) at their "yurt camp," near Canyon Village.  This is a family business that specializes in cross-country skiing, but also offers occasional photo tours emphasizing Yellowstone's winter wildlife.  Their camp is basic.  Guests stay in heated wood and plastic cabins. Meals are prepared and eaten in the two yurts, while shared port-a-potties and showers are a short walk from the cabins.  The staff is as accommodating as can be.  Typically, we would rise early, grab a quick cup of coffee or tea, and jump into a snow coach for a short drive to a potential sunrise view point.  

One of the many bison we encountered on our drives.

That mission completed, we would return to camp, have a hearty breakfast, make box lunches, and then return to the snow coaches for extended drives in search of wildlife, thermal features, and other attractions. As we cruised the roads, we shared these with the wildlife, many of which conserve valuable energy in this way.  

Sunset at Alum Creek with bison herd in distance

Late in the afternoon, we would head back toward camp, often stopping along the way to view the sunset. Once at "home," we would relax, possibly shower, and compare notes with our hosts and fellow guests in the course of a pleasant dinner. Thereafter, I'm sure that the standard routine is to relax, socialize and turn in early.  But my visit coincided with a full moon and clear skies, so that we twice returned to the snow coaches yet again for a quick visit to the nearby Yellowstone Canyon, for the privilege of viewing it and Yellowstone Falls illuminated by moonlight.

Sun Pillar in Yellowstone Canyon

I should add our good fortune of observing "sun pillars" in Yellowstone Canyon on several mornings. These are associated with the canyon, though not unique to it.  They require a combination of a source of water vapor (the falls), cold temperatures (about -10 to +10°F), clear skies, and a sun elevation such as occurs in the early or mid-morning.  Given these, ice crystals will be backlit to create sparkling columns or "pillars" of light.  If you're lucky enough to see pillars, you can play with them by moving yourself so as to superimpose the beam on a tree or other feature, casting a natural spotlight on that element.

Yurt village with snow coaches on left

Note:  Obviously, I enjoyed this part of my Yellowstone visit very much.  But someone thinking of duplicating it should bear several things in mind.  First, Yellowstone can be cold in the winter!  As long as one is properly prepared, the conditions are tolerable.  Second, I've already mentioned that the Yellowstone Expeditions yurt camp provides basic accommodations and would not satisfy someone who must have a toilet or stand-up shower a few steps from his or her bed.  Third, I've also already suggested that my photo tour was a bit atypical: During most weeks in their short season, Yellowstone Expeditions emphasizes cross-country skiing on the many wonderful trails available in this part of the park.  I intended to ski but got caught up in the photography, an omission that I plan to correct on a future visit.  But all of this may depend on the decision that the park service makes soon in their routine review of the license that permits Yellowstone Expeditions to operate their camp.  Though the renewal of this license seems like a no-brainer to me, any plans to visit the yurt camp will require one to first confirm that it's still in operation.  I certainly hope so.