TWO NORWEGIAN FJORDS Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

Nærøyfjord, Norway.

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took the photos in this post in July 2025.

Why Norway? For scenery and Viking history! Under “scenery,” my husband and I targeted three natural wonders: the Lofoten Islands, fjords, and Jotunheimen National Park, home of the highest mountains in Norway. This blog post is about the fjords.

Fjiords (F), Norway (N), Oslo (O).

We decided to visit the two Norwegian fjords listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Nærøyfjord, perhaps the narrowest, most stunning of them all, and the wider Geirangerfjord. We usually prefer to design our own tailored itineraries, and to buy tickets and make reservations ourselves. But to avoid long drives in a rental car, we favored public transportation. And to avoid errors in connecting trains, boats, and buses, I looked for a package deal, for only four of the many days we would spend exploring Scandinavia.

My online research zoomed in on www.FjordTours.com, which I wholeheartedly recommend. The website offers many trip outlines for traveling without a guide. For the “Norway in a Nutshell & Geirangerfjord” tour, I had to try different start dates before the interactive tool could find availability for two people on five trains, three boats, and four buses. Booking the whole package took only one click.

Star Wars filming location.

From Oslo, a 6:20 a.m. train** took us through farmland into mountains past Finse, the filming location of the ice planet Hoth in Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back. A second scenic train ride took us steeply down the mountains, including through 20 tunnels, to sea level at the head of a fjord.

There, the supreme highlight of the entire four days was to be a two-hour boat ride. The second half of it would take us into Nærøyfjord. In the 1888 book, Midnight Sunbeams or Bits of Travel Through the Land of the Norseman, author Edwin Coolidge Kimball wrote, “The fjord is winding in its course, and in places the mountains close it in so that it appears to be a small lake, the great headlands of granite forming grand and imposing boundaries. Many waterfalls—some over a thousand feet high appearing like threads of silver as they descend in a broken course from the snow-fields above, others with more volume of water from lesser heights—plunge into the fjord below. Every turn of the steamer unfolds new grandeurs of rock formation and a fresh supply of waterfalls.”

Given the fickle Norwegian summer weather, I couldn’t believe our luck when we lined up to board the boat under bright blue skies. That’s when the captain appeared, unsmiling. “Sorry,” he said. “The boat ride is canceled due to a technical problem. This is not a joke.” No one was laughing. FjordTours immediately sent buses to take stranded customers to the next stop in only 20 minutes… through a lo‑o‑ong tunnel—some sightseeing! I took the postcard-like photo of Nærøyfjord (at the top of this post) from the spot where the indisposed boat would have docked at the end of the cruise.

View from the Stalheim Hotel.

A bus took us as planned to see an incredible view from the Stalheim Hotel, then to a train to Bergen where we arrived at bedtime. Staying there two nights gave us time to visit the excellent Edvard Grieg Museum, the former home of the most famous Norwegian composer.

Medieval alley in Bergen.

We also visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bryggen, including a few narrow medieval alleys with wooden bridges connecting former fishing-trade warehouses. And we ate the best fish ever, fresh, not from medieval times: monkfish and flounder at Fjellskål. At home, I am a near-vegetarian, but on trips, I am willing to taste some of what the locals eat.

A beautiful summer day to go sailing in Norway.

Next, we spent a day traveling north by scenic boat and bus to Ålesund*** (pronounced awl-soon’d) on the Atlantic coast.

Hotel Brosundet in Alesund.

Our yellow Hotel Brosundet on a historic harbor canal was a repurposed fishing industry warehouse. Around town, we spotted pastel colored Art Nouveau buildings with stylized botanical motifs such as daisies and leaves. We tasted more delicious seafood at Anno, crab-encrusted haddock and fish soup.

The next morning, we embarked on a three-hour boat ride headed inland where the waterway would finally narrow down to Geirangerfjord. I ran around the outdoor deck, hunting for photos of shoreline villages in sun patches, charming old boat sheds, and waterfalls, trying to click fast enough to catch the best angle before the boat motored on.

Historic farm.

The most amazing sights were of historic farms perched partway up dizzying slopes, out of reach of potential attackers. In his 1888 book, Kimball wrote about such a farm, “…one wonders how a human being can choose such a place for a habitation, midway between heaven and earth, exposed to falling avalanches from above, and to sliding down the yawning precipices into the fjord below. It is said that the parents here tether their children with ropes, to keep them from the edge of the cliff, and from ‘taking a header far down below’.”

Entering Geirangerfjiord.

Our boat turned into Geirangerfjord for the last half hour of the cruise.

The Seven Sisters.

In the above photo of the Seven Sisters waterfall, a kayak gives an idea of the scale. On the opposite wall of the fjord, our boat approached a rushing waterfall, making passengers squeal and laugh as they got misted.

That afternoon, a scenic bus ride brought us to Åndalsnes. There, instead of taking two trains back to Oslo that night, we dropped out of the tour and picked up a rental car we had reserved from home, to go hiking for a week in Jotunheimen National Park.

Footnotes:

* Credit for the globe image: Rob984 - Derived from Germany on the globe (Germany centered).svg, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

**Read CarolineArnold’s post about Bergen.

***Read CarolineArnold’s post about Ålesund.

 

BERGEN, NORWAY, 3 DAYS IN MAY: Old and New and a Walk About Town

The Domkirken (Cathedral) in Bergen, Norway, dates to the 12th Century.

Conventional wisdom says to always carry your umbrella when you are in Bergen, and on our recent trip to Norway in May, we were glad we did. Unlike Oslo, where we had enjoyed warm, sunny weather, it was cool and cloudy in Bergen with periods of rain. But that didn’t stop me from going out and walking around the city.

Our hotel and the colorful building fronts of Bryggen.

Our hotel, the Radisson Royal Blu, where Art’s conference was being held, was in the heart of Bryggen, the historic center of the city, now preserved as a UNESCO Heritage site. 

Historic buildings of Bryggen. View from our room at our hotel.

From medieval times through the late 1800s, Bergen was the focus of trade on Norway’s west coast. Colorful storefronts facing the waterfront were once busy offices and warehouses and other buildings connected to the shipping business. Today they are restaurants and souvenir shops.

Entrance to the Bergen Castle.

Just beyond the warehouse district is the entrance to the old castle/fort and its large ceremonial hall, the Hakenshallen, a structure dating back to the 1200s. The opening reception of Art’s conference was held there and we were greeted by the mayor. It was not hard to imagine knights in armor dining in the magnificent room long ago.

Hakonshallen (ceremonial hall)

My first job after arriving in Bergen was finding a laundromat to do our laundry. I learned that, like virtually everything else, all the machines were operated by credit card. We had gone to an ATM machine when we arrived in Norway and gotten cash (Norwegian kroners), but almost never used it. Even the smallest purchases (like a cinnamon roll at the local bakery or the toilets at the train station) was paid for with a tap of a credit card. 

Spring flowers in the Bergen city park.

Armed with a map picked up at the hotel, I took a self-guided walking tour through the streets of Bryggen, then circling the city park, where strollers ambled down flowered paths and swans floated past a fountain in the center of lake. 

Swan in the lake at the Bergen city park.

Bandstand at the Festplaza.

Tulips, rhododendrons, and all kinds of flowers were in the glory of the spring bloom, brightening the overcast weather. At one end of the park a bandstand was ready for summer concerts.

Sample piece (from Brazil) in the Indigenous Histories exhibit at the Kode art museum in Bergen.

Facing the park on one side are three of Bergen’s art museums. One afternoon I met a friend for a visit to a fascinating exhibit called Indigenous Histories. (For a virtual tour of some of the pieces in the exhibit, go to my June 22, 2024 post my Art and Books blog.)

At the main shopping plaza in downtown Bergen, a modern portico has been added to provide protection from rain or snow. Look carefully at the metal column and you can see multiple images of me with my camera.

I then returned to the waterfront by walking through the business district of downtown Bergen. There a wide plaza with memorial sculptures is flanked by commercial buildings dating from the 19^th Century.

A food stand at the fish market offered burgers made of salmon, whale, elk, and reindeer meat.

In the fish market along the waterfront stalls were filled with artfully arranged fish, caviar, and sausages made from reindeer, whale, elk. There were also stalls with various cooked foods to go. (I didn't try any.) The fish market seemed to be more of a tourist draw than a place where locals went to purchase seafood to cook at home.

White building at end of the street is the beginning of the Floibanen Funicular.

A popular attraction in Bergen is the funicular, a skyride that whisks you up from town to the mountain overlooking the city for a spectacular view. But on the day I planned to do it, it was raining and the clouds were so thick that I knew it would be impossible to see anything from the viewpoint. So, instead, I went to the archeology museum next to our hotel and joined a one hour tour.

Trade routes from Bergen in the Middle Ages.

In the Middle Ages, Bergen was a transportation hub, sending ships to ports in Europe, Asia, Africa and North America.

Layers of history revealed in the archeology museum.

Over the centuries the wooden buildings of Bryggen burned many times and were rebuilt many times. As archeologists dig through the layers of remains they have uncovered evidence of life going back to medieval times. In the museum there were displays of ancient shoes, combs, tools, knitting needles and more--even a communal wooden toilet seat! I was particularly fascinated by the display of wooden sticks covered in runic writing.

The Futhark are ancient writing systems used by the Old Norse people of Northern Europe.

Both sides are carved with Runic inscriptions. "Hakon carved me, but the boy owns me." and "Bard owns me. He found much to object to in the person who carved me."

And on our last morning, after the conference was over Art and I did a tour of another museum in Bryggen, which introduced us to life in Hanseatic times. (Bergen was a member of the Hanseatic League, a confederation of German city/states involved in trade in the 14th to 16th centuries. Norway did not become an independent country until 1905.) We then checked out of our hotel and made our way to the ferry building to board the ship for our overnight trip to Alesund. As the ship steamed out of the harbor, the sky cleared and the sun came out as we said good-bye to Bergen. We no longer needed our umbrellas.

Leaving the harbor and the cloudy skies of Bergen.

For more about our ferry trip from Bergen to Alesund go to my post of May 27, 2024, Two Weeks in Norway: Trains, Planes, and Automobiles, and a Few Ferries, Too.

And for an overview of our three days in Oslo, go to my post of June 17, 2024, Oslo, Three Days in May: Opera, Art, History and Sunshine. 

 

The Bryggen waterfront, historic buildings, with the addition of a modern Ferris Wheel, constructed while we were there, perhaps in preparation for the summer tourist season.