Monday, January 26, 2026

GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA, Tennessee Valley Trail, Marin County, California

The Tennessee Valley Trail is among many in the Marin Headlands. 

A short drive over the Golden Gate Bridge brings you from the city of San Francisco to the hills of Marin County, and to the Marin headlands, which line the passage from the Pacific Ocean to San Francisco Bay. One of my favorite places to hike in the Marin Headlands is the 1.7-mile Tennessee Valley trail that leads to Tennessee Beach. 

Tennessee Beach.

The beach gets its name from the wreck of the steamship S.S. Tennessee, which ran aground in heavy fog in 1853, with all 550 passengers and crew safely reaching the shore. At low tide you can still see the remains of the ship in the water.

The gravel trail is mostly level.

In late December, I went with my family for a hike on the Tennessee Valley trail. (The trailhead is about a 35-minute drive from our house in Oakland.) It was a beautiful sunny day--welcome after a week of steady rain. Many other people had the same idea, but the trail did not seem crowded despite all the hikers.  (At the trailhead there is a parking area and toilets and picnic tables.)


Boulders composed of sedimentary rock can be seen along the trail.

The trail is wide and mostly level, suitable for families with small children and even strollers, gradually sloping downhill from the parking area to the beach. Dogs, even on leashes, are not allowed, although we did see one man who was taking his cat for a walk. (The cat was eager to explore and did not seem too happy about being restrained on a leash.)

Because of the recent rains, we had to dodge a few puddles.

The rain had made the hills green and lush and we could hear the gurgle of small streams along the path. We did spot a few flowers, but it was a bit early in the season for spring blooms. We kept our eye out for wildlife, but except for two vultures circling on updrafts, we didn’t see much. On an earlier trip to Tennessee Valley we had spotted a doe and her fawn in a field being stalked by a bobcat. It was only when we put the long lens on the camera (we had forgotten our binoculars) that we saw the bobcat perched on a rock on the hillside above the field where the deer were grazing.


Tennessee Valley is part of the huge Golden GateNational Recreation Area, operated by the National Parks, that includes a wide variety of sites ranging from Alcatraz Island in San Francisco Bay, to Point Reyes National Seashore to the north and beaches and historic sites to the south of San Francisco. 


A sign in the picnic area near the trailhead tells how close the beautiful hills of Tennessee Valley once were in danger of development, before they became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Thankfully, the project was halted and the beautiful hillsides are now preserved for wildlife and hikers like me.

Monday, January 19, 2026

SCOTLAND, Part 2: THE HIGHLANDS AND EDINBURGH, Guest Post by Steve Scheaffer and Karen Neely

Scottish Highlands.

In October 2025 my brother Steve and his wife Karen visited Scotland, touring the Highlands and also visiting Glasgow and Edinburgh.

“We found Scotland a very pretty country and the people were very kind. The biggest drawback was that there were so many tour groups as well as individual tourists. As we headed into the highlands a big storm, Amy, blew in, making a lot of our outdoor activities uncomfortable.  Our tour leader did a good job but you can't change the weather!”

Despite the raindrops, Steve and Karen managed to take a lot of terrific photos. They have graciously shared a selection of them with The Intrepid Tourist. (This is Part 2 of their report.)

The Scottish Crannog Centre. Reconstruction of Iron Age loch-dwellings known as "crannogs".



Thatched roof. 

Castle ruins.


Monument to the Battle of Culloden, 1746. The graves of the gallant highlanders who fought for Prince Charlie are here.

Ancient standing stone.

Aerial view of Edinburgh.

The Writers Museum, Edinburgh..


Fresh vegetables and ice cream.








Monday, January 12, 2026

SCOTLAND, Part 1: GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS, Guest Post by Steve Scheaffer and Karen Neely

Scottish Highlands.

In October 2025 my brother Steve and his wife Karen visited Scotland, touring the Highlands and also visiting Glasgow and Edinburgh.

“We found Scotland a very pretty country and the people were very kind. The biggest drawback was that there  were so many tour groups as well as individual tourists. As we headed into the highlands a big storm, Amy, blew in, making a lot of our outdoor activities uncomfortable.  Our tour leader did a good job but you can't change the weather!”

Despite the raindrops, Steve and Karen managed to take a lot of excellent photos. They have graciously shared them with The Intrepid Tourist. (Part 2 will post next week.)

Gothic tower of Glasgow University.

Mural, Glasgow.

Another one of many public murals, Glasgow.


Old Packhorse bridge, Carrbridge, Scotland.

Celtic Cross.

Herding sheep.

Scottish longhorn cattle--on a rare sunny day.

Large copper pot used for distilling spirits at a whisky distillery. 

Bag piper.

Part 2 of Steve and Karen's trip to Scotland will post next week.

Monday, January 5, 2026

THE KAREN BLIXEN MUSEUM NEAR COPENHAGEN, DENMARK – A WRITER’S HOME Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

At the Blixen Museum near Copenhagen, Denmark.

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took the photos in this post in June 2025.

When the movie Out of Africa came out in 1985, I saw it in a big-screen theater. As an epic love story between a Danish woman who had a farm in Africa and a British big-game hunter, it won Oscars for Best Picture, Best Cinematography, Best Original Score, and four more.

Forty years later, my husband and I planned to visit Denmark. By then I had learned that the book, Out of Africa, on which the movie is loosely based, is a memoir by Isak Dinesen, the pen name of Karen Blixen (1885-1962), an icon in the culture of Denmark. (Isak means “he who laughs” and Dinesen was Blixen’s maiden name.)

 

Blixen Museum, Copenhagen, Denmark (D), Norway (N), Sweden (S)*.

An online search for her name found the Karen Blixen Museumhttps://blixen.dk/en/ at Rungstedlund, her farm near Copenhagen. The museum is a park-like estate. In the photo at the top of this post, the farmhouse (on the left) is her former home. The former barn (on the right) is the Cultural Events Centre with meeting room, café, and gift shop. Imagine attending a writer’s conference there! The property contains a pond, bridge, orchard, former cow and horse pasture, and woods with trees centuries old. Part of the property is the Bird Sanctuary she created as a haven for migratory species.

Our self-guided visit began through ground-floor rooms full of info (in Danish and English) about Blixen’s life, photos, and objects such as her Corona typewriter and original editions of her most famous works. This large farm is where she was born in 1885 and grew up privileged, enjoying nature and animals. She loved stories, listening to them and telling her own. By age 8, she wrote her first fiction piece. By age 11, she wrote and performed plays. 

She wanted to achieve something remarkable, not just marry a rich man. Her family was supportive of her quest as a writer. Her first publication was a tale (submitted by her aunt) in a literary magazine the year Blixen turned 22. But she published only two more tales, so she endured years of despair because she didn’t know what to do with her life.

At age 28, she married a rich man after all and started managing a coffee farm owned by family members, in British East Africa, a colony which included today’s Kenya. While reading the museum posters, I liked comparing facts in her real life with fiction in the movie and finding matches (married the day after she arrived in Africa… diagnosed with syphilis…). I gazed at the black-and-white photo of Denys Finch Hatton, the love of her life. “He was the most intelligent man she had ever met, and he was a good listener when she read aloud to him from the stories she wrote.”

After 17 years, the farm, which had never made any money because the area was too cold to grow coffee, was shut down. This left Blixen to despair again, about what she was going to do with her life. She started writing a book, hoping to finish it after going home to Denmark. Finch Hatton did die in a plane crash not long before she left Africa. 

Green room.

She came home emotionally, physically, and financially devastated. Finch Hatton’s favorite chair (the second chair from the right in the above photo), in which he sat by the fireplace at her farm in Africa and listened to her stories, went in the Green Room on the ground floor, not far from her winter writing desk (on the left in the photo). This room stayed warm in cold weather.

She finished writing her book in English. U.S. publishers rejected it. London publishers rejected it. Finally an American author, who was a friend of Blixen’s aunt, gave the manuscript to her own publisher. He published Blixen’s first book, Seven Gothic Tales, in 1934 when she was 49. It was a hit in the U.S. and the U.K., but the Danish version she produced got mixed reviews in Denmark.

African collection.

Our visit led us past a room full of Blixen’s cherished African mementos. This was where she wrote in the summer. While in Africa, she had proposed a travelogue—unsuccessfully. Yet she kept working on it. Finally, in 1936 it was published as a memoir, Seventeen Years in Africa, in a newspaper Sunday supplement. Months later, a new chapter moved her London publisher to accept the book: Out of Africa got rave reviews in Denmark, England, and the U.S. in 1937, the year she turned 52.

Dining room.

We saw the dining room as it was when Blixen staged enchanting dinner parties—for no more than seven carefully selected guests. Her conversations with great minds from all fields of thought inspired her. She viewed gastronomy as an art form. “Babette’s Feast,” the tale she wrote about a French master chef who wowed her guests, was published in 1952 and made into a 1987 Danish movie which won the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film.

Kitchen.

Kitchen.

In the kitchen, Blixen’s housekeeper prepared the famous dinners. In the adjacent room, Blixen arranged flowers from her cutting garden for every room in her house. Menus and bouquets provided extra outlets for her creativity.

Library.

Library.

Blixen loved to read broadly across many genres. In her library, we saw some of the books that inspired her.

Bedroom.

Upstairs, we walked through Blixen’s bedroom, as it was when she lived there and died in her bed in 1962. All the rooms look as they did then. 

Looking out the bedroom window.

Outside the bedroom window, beyond the lawn and across a public road, is the sea corridor that separates Denmark from Sweden. Today, the view is filled by a marina, which didn’t exist in Blixen’s lifetime.

Porch.

When we were done visiting the house, we strolled through the manicured grounds.

Grave.

In a far corner of the park, Blixen’s grave, marked unobtrusively by a flat stone under a magnificent beech tree in her Bird Sanctuary, was honored by a single red rose. She chose the site and pre-arranged her funeral consecration ceremony. She also founded the non-profit that still owns the estate. What an uncommon mind and drive she had!

* Credit for the globe image: Rob984 - Derived from Germany on the globe (Germany centered).svg, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

 

Read CarolineArnold’s post about Copenhagen.