CYCLING COAST to COAST in ENGLAND: from the Irish Sea to the North Sea, Guest Post by Gretchen Woelfle

My friend and fellow children's book writer, Gretchen Woelfle, has spent the last several months in England. She is also an avid and accomplished cyclist. Here is her report of a trip she made across England on her bike..
 
There’s something to be said for small countries like the UK. (NB: Don’t tell a Brit it’s small.) They can create things like a 14,000 mile National Cycle Network, a brainchild of nonprofit group Sustrans (sustainable transit, including walking).

In July a friend and I cycled 136 of those miles across the north of England on the c2c route, from Whitehaven on the Irish Sea to Tynemouth on the North Sea, through beautiful landscapes and the Pennines: a range of challenging uphills and thrilling downhills.

The Lake District

We booked with Pedal Power Cycle who customized the journey to our liking. We choose to do it in four days and Pedal Power arranged our accommodations (3 hotels, 2 B&Bs), carried our luggage onward, and provided bikes and maps.

Yankee Invader

Whitehaven, the starting point, was a site of a bungled invasion during the American Revolution. John Paul Jones, a Scot in the Royal Navy switched sides (GB’s Benedict Arnold?), landed at Whitehaven on April 23, 1778, rowed ashore with fifteen men, and spiked the cannons overlooking the harbor. They planned to burn hundreds of ships anchored there, but ran out of fuel. Some sailors went into town to find some, got waylaid in a pub, and didn’t return until nearly dawn, at which point the town was alerted and Jones and his men fled the scene. In 1999 Whitehaven officially pardoned Jones for the debacle.

Day 1, 31 miles, cycling tradition has you dip your back wheel in the Irish Sea, which I did.  Then we took off along a bike trail along an abandoned rail line, through woods and along sheep pastures. Sustrans has installed artwork every few miles: sculptured route markers and whimsical cutouts. Then on to country roads, through four rain showers, up one very steep climb with welcome tea and tea bread (fruitcake) at the top, then a whirl down to the town of Keswick and a hearty dinner at the Dog & Gun pub.

Trail Signage

Whimsical Sculpture along the trail

Day two, 49 miles, through the utter gorgeousness of the Lake District –which could inspire one to write poetry if one were so inclined. More steep hills, more delicious downhills, to an 18^th century coaching inn in the country. I felt no shame dismounting and pushing the bike up some of those hills.

Day 3, 28 miles, and the hardest day yet. Into Northumbria, steeper hills, more rugged countryside, lunch in a pretty village, flower show in a medieval church where a young woman climbed into the tower to fix the clock. Blessed cup of tea at the highest (former) train station in England, then a blissful gradual downhill along the old rail bed, over stark moors with sheep gazing and gazing unperturbed. Evening ended at The Fleece where our team did not win the pub quiz.

Rail Trail

Day 4, 27 easy miles into Newcastle-upon-Tyne, lunch at a 15^th century pub on the river, one more rail trail to Tynemouth and the North Sea, into which I dipped my front wheel, and bid farewell to my trusty steed/cycle. Finally a van ride to our luxury riverside hotel and a superb vegetarian meal at The Herb Garden.

All in all, an exhilarating ride, glorious landscapes, dramatic skies, and ample justification for having a slice of decadent cake – Victoria sponge, lemon drizzle, etc. – every afternoon with my tea. I’m checking out Pedal Power’s Coasts and Castles route that wends its way to Scotland.

For more information on hiking and biking routes in the UK: http://www.sustrans.org.uk (see walking and cycling inspiration page)

www.pedal-power.co.uk customized self-guided cycling tours

Searching “walking and cycling holidays UK” will give dozens of options for guided and self-guided tours.