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Stage, Globe Theater, London |
I thank my friends Hal and Pam Fuson for the following post about their recent trip to the UK for a close-up look at the British theater scene, led in part by the excellent Blue Badge Guides.
Recently, long-time friends pushed
us to join them on a theatre-themed tour of London, Bath and Stratford-on-Avon
sponsored by The Old Globe Theatre, a San Diego company with an 80-year history of
producing Shakespeare and a wide range of other plays, both new and old. As a director of The Old Globe I knew many of
the other forty members of the tour group and, of course, we shared an
enthusiasm for seeing plays and looking behind the scenes at some of the
world’s other great theater companies, including London’s 1990s reproduction of
Shakespeare’s original theater, also known as The Globe.
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Mild October weather makes the gardens of Blenheim Palace, where Winston
Churchill spent his early childhood, a welcoming stop in Oxfordshire. |
If anything, the prospect of being
in the hands of a tour company was more of a negative than a positive. On earlier trips we had successfully bought discount theater
tickets at the
Leicester Square TKTS ticket booth. And since we did more or less speak the language, we
questioned the necessity of paying someone else to steer us about on a schedule
not our own. Happily, as it turned out, we
rather enjoyed being steered about, partly because we could always blame the
tour company, instead of ourselves or our friends, for the inevitable mishaps
and aggravations of travel. If the bed
was a little too soft, or the food service a tad slow, or the last sight a bit
passé, well, so it goes. There was always a next restaurant or another fascinating
backstage for us to look forward to without any of us having to worry about the
timing or the tickets.
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Wearing signature orange National Theatre jackets, tourists go behind the
scenes |
A stark reminder of what can go
wrong came at our first theater booking, “The Play that Goes Wrong,” a farce
that is doing well in London’s Covent Garden.
What went wrong for us was that our forty seats were double-booked,
apparently because of an error by the ticket agency on which our tour operator
had successfully relied for more than twenty years. The tour operator
compensated by finding us seats for a matinee a few days later, this time
featuring David Suchet as Lady Bracknell in “The Importance of Being Earnest.”
It helped that the Oscar Wilde masterpiece was directed by Adrian Noble, the
former director of the Royal Shakespeare Company, many of whose Shakespeare
productions we had seen during his turn as the artistic director of the summer festival at San Diego’s Globe.
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Blue Badge guide describes the effect of later
additions on Hampton Court's architectural integrity. |
Another task the tour operator
undertook for us was hiring a remarkably good crew of guides, all of whom were
certified holders of Blue Badge status under the UK’s demanding system of
training and testing. Each guide had
charge of groups of 15 or less when we were moving on foot, which was most of
the time when we weren’t seated in theaters or restaurants.
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Visitors peer down at the Roman baths with the Bath Abbey looming in the
background. |
Not only did they know where to lead us and
what to say about the sights along the way, they were theatrical acts onto
themselves. They herded groups of us
mostly older cats, with our different capacities for mobility, hearing and
attention span, keeping us on defined time schedules across busy urban
landscapes crisscrossed with traffic diversions and occasional traverses of
royal or parliamentary carpools. Not the
least of their skills was in always knowing the way to the best nearby pub and,
shortly thereafter, to the nearest restrooms, or, in the Queen’s English, the
“loo”, a matter of considerable intensity for us older folk.
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At tea in this home in Bath, Jane Austen, or a very good likeness, still reads
from her work. |
But managing the logistics is only
the beginning. Just as important is the
guides’ stock of stories about the sights we were seeing. For example, the origin of the terms “loo”
and “Big Ben”. It happens, as a guide in
London told us, the origins of both terms are a bit hazy. One story is that “loo” has something to do
with the Waterloo train station, or even with the battle after which the
station is named. Another has it that a
one-time maker of iron cisterns branded its products with the mark
“Waterloo”. Our Stratford guide steered
us to a prize-winning loo next to the River Avon, but he affirmed that the
origin of the name was uncertain.
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Guide Sean Kelleher in Westminster discussing how Big Ben, the bell, got its
name. |
Big Ben, we learned, is actually
the bell within the tower now named for Queen Elizabeth II on the occasion of
the 60th anniversary of her reign, just as the other tower on the Houses of
Parliament was named for Queen Victoria when she passed the same
milestone. The bell, we were told, is
inscribed with the name of Benjamin Hall, the first London Commissioner of
Works, under whose leadership the towers and many important items of modern
infrastructure, including perhaps a number of loos, were built.
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Looking up a Hampton Court staircase toward the Chambers of Henry VIII. |
I have learned in my involvement
with theater that when you have a particularly knotty problem with lots of
moving parts prone to failure, you should hire a first-rate member of the stage
managers union. Now I know that adding a Blue Badge guide to the team sharply
increases your chances of success.
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A guide explains a feature of the almost 800 year-old Salisbury
Cathedral |
You don’t need to be a member of a
tour group to hire your own guides. The Blue Badge and London Walks web sites provide details, and web searches and guidebooks for other
destinations should reveal similarly qualified guides at locations around the
world. Just be sure to check references. Also, remember that most of the usual stops
on many routes offer good and inexpensive tours of their highlights — our Blue
Badge folks handed us off to local guides at locations like Blenheim Palace and the four theatres whose backstages we toured —The Royal Opera House, The National Theatre, and Shakespeare’s Globe in London, and The Royal Shakespeare Theatre in Stratford — and their guides were uniformly
excellent. Pricing and other details are
available on the web sites. Our tour
operator was the unflappable Barry Tobias of San Diego-based Break-Away
Tours.
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Shakespeare speaks often of swans, as in this line from Othello: ˜I will play
the swan,/ and die in music". Hundreds of the majestic birds frequent the
River Avon near Stratford |
Excellent and accurate perspective of a visit to Europe with an emphasis on theatre. I'm ready to travel again and learn even more tidbits about the culture and society of England.
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