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Signpost to Santiago de Campostela, Spain |
My
friend and fellow children's book writer, Gretchen Woelfle, is an avid and accomplished cyclist.
Here is her report of her recent bicycle trip in Spain following the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. The second half of her report will post next week.
Back around 840 CE, a bishop reported that a pile
of bones had washed up in a stone boat on the northeast coast of Spain. He
claimed they belonged to St. James the apostle.
How James, beheaded in Jerusalem, got to Spain is unclear. Some say
transported by angels. In any case, by the 11th century, the bones
and their many attributed miracles brought a stream of pilgrims from all over
Europe to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. This stream shows no sign of
drying up.
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A welcome coffee break along the way |
Today tens of thousands of people make their way to
Santiago from France, Portugal, and northern Spain. In the past, most walked while
the rich rode on horseback or in carriages. Today most still walk and some ride
bicycles. I was one of the cyclists this past September.
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The scallop shell is the Camino's logo and can be seen everywhere along the route |
Our group began in Leon, 340km (211 miles) from Santiago
and cycled for six days. All day long we passed backpacking pilgrims and
exchanged greetings: “¡Buen Camino!” Many
hikers stay in spartan hostel or monastery dormitories. We stayed in hotels with hot showers. We met
two older couples who walked all day, but hired a taxi to take their backpacks
from inn to inn.
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A bicyclist's view of Galicia |
The Camino grew steeper and more scenic as we
entered Galicia with wooded mountains, streams, rivers, and ancient villages –
and its own language. Restaurants offered reasonably-priced “pilgrim’s dinners”
which included good local wines. We saw the Camino logo, a scallop shell, everywhere
– on doors, gates, and signposts, in gift shops, and tied to walkers’
backpacks.
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Gaudi palace in Astorga |
In Astorga we had a view from our balcony of the
Bishop’s Palace, designed by Gaudi. In Molinoseca, a small village, we cooled
off in the Meruelo River.
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O Cebreiro bagpipe band |
A stroke of serendipity found us in the hilltop
village of O Cebreiro on the feast day of the Virgin Mary. Dozens of vendors
selling cakes, honey, cheese, garlic, and other regional specialties joined
thousands of people who had come to celebrate. The small church, lit by hundreds
of votive candles, echoed with medieval organ music. Outside, a bagpipe
ensemble harkened back to Galicia’s Celtic roots.
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Tympanum of San Xoan, Portomarin |
The Romanesque church in Portomarin drew me to its
unadorned elegance. In the 1960s, it and the entire town were relocated stone
by stone from a nearby valley when a huge hydroelectric dam was built. Rambling
through the cobblestone streets, I couldn’t imagine the effort that went into
such a project.
Look for Part 2 and the completion of Gretchen's bicycle pilgrimage next week, November 21, 2016
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