Bicycle vendor, Hanoi, Vietnam |
My
cycling tour of Vietnam [see post for 4/4/16] included free days in several cities. I arrived early and stayed a
few extra days to see a bit more of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and Hanoi.
My
first impression of Saigon was of a swarm of wasps furiously
buzzing and zipping through the streets.
For wasps, read scooters and motorbikes.
Just as wasps would, these buzzers ignored all traffic conventions –
traffic lights, stop signs, even traffic lanes.
Crosswalks were worse than useless, for they gave you a false sense of
security. The only way to cross the street was walk purposefully across without
stopping, letting the wasps zip around you. By the end of the trip I was
striding forth almost confidently.
Safely
landing on the sidewalks we discovered that they are not walkways, but parking
lots for aforesaid scooters and motorbikes, so we often ended up walking (carefully)
in the road. Sidewalks were also home to vendors of all sorts, making walking
even more difficult.
Street vendor making a call on the job |
On
Saturday night one of the wide boulevards (lined with upmarket stores) was closed to
traffic and filled with crowds of all ages.
Musicians set up here and there, performing hip hop, pop, karaoke,
and traditional Vietnamese music. At the end of the long avenue a bronze Uncle
Ho stood overlooking the whole scene.
What on earth was he thinking?
Midway
through our cycling trip, we had a free day in Hoi An. This beautiful UNESCO World
Heritage Site contains many old buildings that reflect its 500-year-old history
as an international trading port. Both sides agreed not to bomb Hoi An during
the war. Museums, temples, and workshops displaying fine crafts (beyond the usual
tourist tat,) kept us walking and shopping all day long.
We
reached Hanoi via a twelve-hour overnight train from Hue: 5 pm to 5 am. (I
actually slept better than I thought I would.) First thing to notice – many
more cars than in Saigon. Crossing the streets required even more courage,
dodging cars and buses, as well as motorbikes.
Saturday night in Hanoi |
Dragon dancers, Hanoi |
Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi |
Park cleaner at Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi |
I
chose to go to Vietnam, rather than another Asian country, because of the war
that loomed so large in the lives of my generation. Next week I’ll cover some of the remnants of
the war I saw on my journey.
See
http://www.exodustravels.com/usa/vietnam-holidays/cycling/cycling-vietnam/mov-94296 for details of our
itinerary.
Bibliography
Pham, Andrew, Catfish and Mandala. NY, FSG: 1999. Vietnamese-American who fled as
a child, returns to cycle through Vietnam in his 20s, with flashbacks to his
history. Excellent book.
Dinh, Linh, Love Like Hate. NY, Seven Stories Press: 2010. Multi-generation
family novel, from 1960s to the present.
Good look at life in postwar Saigon.
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