BENICIA, CA: Art, History, and Small Town Charm on the Carquinez Strait

Benicia, California. Former Rail Ferry Depot

Recently, on a sunny afternoon in late August, I drove with friends from our house in Oakland for an afternoon visit to the small town of Benicia, California, located on the Carquinez Strait at the north end of San Francisco Bay. Once a military outpost, and for a brief time the capitol of California, the town is now known for its arts community and for its restaurants and antique shops.

Looking east from the parking area toward Mount Diablo (elevation 3948 feet)

The motivation for our trip was an event called “Paint Out”, a community art celebration and competition for plein air (open air) painters.

Plein Air painting by Susan Street

During the day the artists spread out around town with their paints and easels and set themselves at work depicting various local scenes. We spotted one artist painting a floral scene after we parked our car near the bayside park and later saw others painting views of the water and bridge. Then at 3:00 all the artists brought their work to a central gallery, where the art was exhibited, judges awarded prizes and refreshments were available to everybody.

Blown glass vase at Lindsay Art Glass

While we waited for the exhibit to open, we wandered along First Street, browsing in some of the many antique and gift shops and visiting an amazing blown glass gallery, Lindsay Art Glass.

Looking west from Benicia toward the 101 Bridge and San Francisco Bay

Although I had passed the exit for Benicia from the 101 Freeway many times, this was my first visit. I remember reading about the Carquinez Strait (which connects San Francisco Bay with the Sacramento River delta) in 1985, when a young grey whale swam into San Francisco Bay on his annual migration up the coast, and mistakenly headed inland instead of back out to sea. Dubbed “Humphrey the Wrong-Way Whale” his journey was watched by millions both in person and on television until he finally turned around and safely made it back to the Pacific.

The Arsenal

For many years Benicia was a U.S. Army post. The beautiful Arsenal building from the former Army Base is now offices and art galleries. Benicia also still has some elegant Victorian homes from its early days. A trip to Benicia is a pleasant day's outing from Oakland or San Francisco and a nice escape from the hurly burly of city life. I plan to go back!

RARE BOOKS, PRINTS AND DRAWINGS and More at the Philadelphia Free Library

Entrance to the Free Library of Philadelphia

It may seem like a bus-man's holiday, but as I often do when I travel, I like to visit the local library. On a recent visit to Philadelphia, I stopped by the children’s room in the Central branch of the  Free Library of Philadelphia. I had a delightful visit with the head of the department, who pointed out the series of beautiful N.C. Wyeth paintings that decorate the walls of the room.

The paintings are part of the library's extensive Children’s Literature Research Collection. I was pleased to discover that the research collection also includes quite a few of my books. I returned two days later to meet the curator of the collection and sign some of my books.

Later that afternoon I visited the Rare Book Department of the library, featuring a temporary exhibit called Or Else: Cautionary Tales for Children, where I saw the dummy of one of my all time favorite books, Sylvester and the Magic Pebble by William Steig. Historic books were on display as well examples from more modern illustrators including Munro Leaf ("Watchbirds" cartoons in the Ladies Home Journal and Ferdinand the Bull), Robert Lawson, Maurice Sendak, Tomi Ungerer and Barry Moser. The Or Else exhibit is now closed but the permanent exhibits are well worth a visit.

The permanent exhibits in the Rare Books Department include examples of ancient cuniform writing  (done with sticks on clay), a number of original works by Beatrix Potter, a display of Grip, the pet raven of Charles Dickens and inspiration for Edgar Allan Poe's "The Raven", the entire collection of William McIntire Elkins, a Philadelphia philanthropist, and much more. As it turned out, a staff member was giving tours of the Elkins library, and invited me to come along. The Elkins library reproduces the actual library of its donor (chairs, curtains, carpets, shelves, etc.) exactly as it was in his home, along with his huge Dickens collection and other books.

Grand main staircase of the Philadelphia Free Library

I also stopped by a temporary exhibit from the library's Print and Picture Collection. It is called Fur and Feathers: A Cautious Pairing of Cats and Birds and features intriguing prints, drawings, and photographs by Audubon, Dali, Muybridge and others.

For more about my visit to the Children's Collection, see my post for 6/8/16 at my Art and Books Blog.

RUNNYMEDE SCULPTURE FARM, Spreckels Estate in Woodside, California

Horse Head for Runnymede by Ilan Averbuch

Imagine a farm that instead of growing corn, wheat, or watermelons, sprouts giant sculptures in its fields. Runnymede Farm, in the hills of Woodside, California, just north of Palo Alto, is a sculpture farm–120 acres of rolling hills dotted with more than 160 sculptures installed along paths, in fields, and under the trees.

Steel sculptures by Charles Ginnever

Two weeks ago I attended an event held there and  had the chance to enjoy both the beautiful scenery and view some of the many sculptures. I am one of the lucky ones to see the art up close because, except for rare occasions, the farm is not open to the public.

Lenape by Harry Gordon

Runnymede Farm was originally bought in 1930 by Alma Spreckels Rosekrans, one of the heirs to the famous sugar magnate, Claus Spreckels, as a home for her jumper horses. It was named for her father's prized stallion. The property was turned into a Sculpture Farm by her son John and his wife Dodie Rosekrans in the mid-1980s. They had a passion for modern three-dimensional art and traveled throughout the United States and Europe meeting artists and collecting pieces for their outdoor art museum.  No new pieces have been added since John passed away in 2001.

Hand Like Tree by Magdalena Abakanowicz

Sculptures were around us from the moment we pulled through the gate. In the parking area a row of what resembled giant tree trunks stood like silent sentries along the edge of the creek bed. Behind us in open sheds were the collection of another family member, pieces of antique farm equipment--looking almost like sculptures themselves.

Walking Cairn by Celeste Roberge

Near the building that was once a dairy barn stood the figure of a woman walking, created from large stones wrapped in wire. We then proceeded up the path toward the top of the hill, passing a large field dotted with abstract metal shapes. Around the bend a giant horsehead greeted us, the blocks of stone catching the afternoon sunlight. And at the top of the hill, were more pieces--near the water tank, in the field and among the trees.

Sculpture by Ilan Averbuch

These are just a few of the sculptures I saw. Click HERE for a sampling of some of the many other sculptures at Runnymede Farm.
Runnymede farm lies just west of the 280 Freeway. As you speed by in your car you may get a glimpse of one or two pieces. Or, you may have the good fortune, as I did, to attend a special event there and see the sculptures up close.

FOWLER MUSEUM, UCLA, Three Exciting New Exhibits: Prints, Fiber Art, and Yarn Paintings; Los Angeles, CA

Huichol Yarn Painting, on exhibit at the Fowler Museum, Los Angeles, CA

One of my favorite places to take visitors to Los Angeles is the Fowler Museum, located at UCLA near the bottom of the Janss Steps, not far from central campus. It is dedicated to exploring world arts and cultures, especially Africa, Asia and the Pacific. Last weekend I visited to see three recently opened shows: Nkame: A Retrospective of Cuban Printmaker Belkis Ayon; Uncommon Threads: The Box Project; and The Spun Universe: Huichol Yarn Paintings from Mexico. All were amazing.

Prints by Cuban artist Belkis Ayon

The prints of Belkis Ayon are huge–actually assemblages of multiple plates to make mural size pieces. Most are black and white, which increases the dramatic effect and emphasizes the many textures that make up the design. The subjects of many of the prints are from stories connected to the Afro-Cuban fraternal society Abakua. Belkis Ayon (1967-1999) used a technique called collography, which fastens a variety of materials onto cardboard to make a printing plate which is then put through a press. You can see her at work in a video that is part of the exhibition. Nkame (a word synonymous with “greeting” and “praise” in the language of Abakuá) is on exhibit October 2, 2016 to February 12, 2017.

The Uncommon Threads Box Project

For the Uncommon Threads Box Project a number of international fiber artists were invited to create works that could be fit in a standard size box. The results are displayed along with larger works by the artists. The amazing part of this exhibit is both the variety of materials and the range of interpretation of what it means to fit into a box.

Fabric covered blocks by James Bassler

In some cases, the finished fabric was folded or rolled into a box while other artists turned the fabric into a box or, in one case, blocks. The exhibit will be on view September 11, 2016 to January 15, 2017.

Detail of Huichol Yarn Painting

The Huichol Yarn paintings in The Spun Universe exhibit can by seen in a small gallery within the larger Intersections gallery. Colored yarn is the “paint” used to produce the radiant colors and intricate designs in these traditional works created by the Wixarika people of Western Mexico. The yarn is turned and twisted and affixed to a wooden board with beeswax. The designs, inspired by mythology and shamanic visions, feature animals, human figures, plants and other ritual objects. The “paintings” are stunning viewed both close-up to see the intricate details, and at a distance where they have a poster-like boldness. The exhibit will be on view August 14, 2016 to December 4, 2016.

Large Huichol Yarn Painting--our favorite in the exhibit

Selected items from the Fowler’s huge collection are in an ongoing exhibit called  Intersections: World Arts, Local Lives. Another gallery has a permanent display of the Francis E. Fowler, Jr. Collection of Silver. So there is always much to see at the museum.
And, a must when you visit the Fowler, is a stop at the excellent gift shop with its changing selection of merchandise that is coordinated with current exhibitions.

Six paneled print by Belkis Ayon

The Fowler Museum is open Wednesday through Sunday noon to 5 pm and 8 pm on Wednesday.
Admission is FREE.
For directions and parking, click HERE.

Muenster, Germany: A Tour of the Historic Center at Night

Muenster's Historic Town Hall, viewed at night

Earlier this year, my husband Art visited Muenster, Germany, for a scientific conference. While most of his time was spent in meetings, one evening he went on a bus tour of the historic city center. Muenster, a medium sized city located in northwestern Germany, has a long history going back to the Middle Ages. It was the site of the signing of the Treaty of Westphalia, which ended the Thirty Years War in 1648.  During World War II the city was heavily bombed and the historic center was largely destroyed. After the war, the decision was made to rebuild the old city to match its prewar state. So, when you visit today, the heart of Muenster looks very much like it would have hundreds of years ago, except, of course, that the shops along Prinzipalmarkt Street bear the familiar logos of today’s brands.

The tour included a stop at the town hall, or rathaus, Muenster's landmark, where the Peace of Westphalia was announced. Portraits of the delegates to the peace negotiations can be seen in the Hall of Peace.

Prinzipalmarkt, the main shopping street of Muenster, with shopping arcades located under the tall gabled houses.

Art always enjoys the chance to eat typical German foods (which remind him of the year he spent in Germany as a high school student.) On his first night in Muenster he treated himself to schnitzel and pilsener. His souvenirs of the trip were also food–fresh whole grain bread from a local bakery, a jar of raps honig (honey made from rapeseed blossoms) and a box of Lubecker marzipan (a perennial favorite of ours.) While it is possible to buy German marzipan in specialty stores in the United States, it always tastes better fresh from the source! We wondered if the muenster cheese available in American supermarkets had its origin in Germany, but, it turns out to be a version of a cheese named after the Alsatian abbey of Munster in the Vosgian Mountains of France.

To get to Muenster, Art flew from LAX to London, from there to Dusseldorf, Germany, and from Dusseldorf to Muenster by train. I thank Art for sharing his photos of his night tour of Muenster with The Intrepid Tourist.

BUTTERFLIES ALL AROUND: New Butterfly Pavilion, Natural History Museum, Los Angeles

A Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly, a California native species

Butterflies are nature’s jewels of the air. When I was a child, one of our many family hobbies was collecting butterflies–searching the meadows and fields of Minnesota and Wisconsin in summertime for monarchs, fritillaries, white and yellow sulphers, mourning cloaks, and more, catching them in our butterfly net so we could see them up close. It was always a special thrill to find a swallowtail with its elegant wings.

Inside the Butterfly Pavilion at the Natural History Museum of LA County

Last week, I made a special trip to the new Butterfly Pavilion at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County, to see some of the same species of butterflies again, as they flitted from flower to flower inside a large enclosed outdoor exhibit. Butterflies were everywhere--on the flowers, clinging to the netting, resting on the ground and flapping through the air. All of the more than 30 species of butterflies in the exhibit are native to North America and many live in California. Large illustrated cards are available to carry around and identify the species.

 The back side of the card illustrates some of the interesting facts about the shapes, sizes and colors of the butterflies in the exhibit:

• For some butterflies, bright colors and patterns help males and females find one another.

  

  A Julia Longwing butterfly, male

• Colors can sometimes help butterflies blend into their surroundings and hide from predators.

  

  The pattern on the Malachite butterfly's wings mimics sunlit leaves

• A few butterflies taste really bad. Predators remember bold colors and avoid them.

  

  The Monarch, a native in California, depends on milkweed plants for breeding

• Some wing patterns look like large eyes of other larger animals and “fool” potential predators.

  

  the White Peacock butterfly has several eye-spots

  To see the butterflies, you must reserve a ticket for timed entry. I visited in the middle of the day when the pavilion was warm and full of sunshine and the butterflies were busy feeding at the various flowers. After 30 minutes, the museum staff shooed me out so the next group of people with timed tickets could come in. I would have liked to stay longer--the thrill of seeing butterflies up close never goes away.
  The Butterfly Pavilion is located outside the south entrance of the Natural History Museum. It is a permanent structure that will be open seasonally. This year it will be open for one month, September 16 - October 16, 2016. For directions and parking, click HERE.

South Entrance of the museum

LONDON CANALS, Guest Post by Gretchen Woelfle

Canal and Towpath, Regents Park, London

My friend and fellow children's book writer, Gretchen Woelfle, has spent the last several months in England. She is also an avid and accomplished cyclist and sped around London on the network of towpaths along the canals. Here is her report of some of the sights you can see along the canals.

Ask people about London waterways, and they’ll know the River Thames that snakes its way through the city from west to east. But there are over sixty miles of canals that flow through the city, relics of the 18^th century Age of Canals, when thousands of miles of canals propelled the Industrial Revolution all over Britain. A team of horses could pull 1000 lbs. of cargo along rough roads in a day.  They could pull 50,000 lbs. by water.

By 1850, 4800 miles of canals linked mines, textile mills, factories, and agricultural centers to seaports throughout the country. Commercial canal traffic only ended after World War II.

Limehouse Basin

Today the Canal & River Trust maintain 2000 miles of canals in England and Wales for our recreational pleasure. In London they are found hiding in plain sight, often below street level in east, west, and north London. Google maps will direct you to the entrances to towpaths along the Regent’s, Grand Union, and Docklands Canals, and the River Lea Navigation route.

Operating the locks

Traditional narrow boats, wider barges, and quirky sorts of watercraft ply the waters today and crews work the locks by hand. You’ll see hundreds of houseboats moored temporarily or permanently along the canals. In late August we met a family of four who had spent five weeks cruising from Liverpool to London, and were heading to a winter mooring before returning to their earth-bound home.

Houseboats

Other people live aboard year-round – cheaper than London rents.  Piles of wood on top of some boats fuel wood-burning stoves in winter.  A few have solar panels. Many miles of London canals are in populated areas. But some boats moored in industrial west London are far from roads or shops. How do they get groceries and water home? 

Waterside Cafe

The canals are vehicle-free routes for bicycle commuters. They are also scenic routes to stroll. Guided canal walks, canal festivals, and boat rides are further ways to explore canal lore. Pubs, cafés, and parks bump up against the towpath. (We saw one cyclist knocked into the canal, bicycle and all, by a careless pubster standing on the towpath.) There is even a bookshop barge that presents live music on its roof.

Concert on the water

Regent’s Canal cuts through the zoo. The Camden Locks join Camden Market, with stalls of clothing styles unchanged for decades. A food court fills the air with delicious aromas and reflects the global society that is London. We rode along the Grand Union canal during Notting Hill Caribbean Carnival and heard the bands loud and clear. 

Camden Locks

The Canal Museum, originally a nighttime stable for horses that pulled the boats, contains a narrowboat with typical house furnishings, as well as a gallery of photos and films of the canals in their working days. Painted pottery favored by boat dwellers is on display along with tools used in the trade. 

My favorite part of museum is the oral histories told by men and women who grew up on narrowboats. The shop carries an impressive library of books on canal life as well as nostalgic memorabilia. The museum offers guided walks and boat tours.

Warehouse turned into a workshop

The canals provide a colorful slice of London life past and present, from parks and mansions to council flats, abandoned warehouses and untamed nature. They also provide a refuge for birds, aquatic life, small woodland critters, and humans who want to retreat from the buzz of urban life.

For more information see:

https://canalrivertrust.org.uk

www.canalmuseum.org.uk

http://mappinglondon.co.uk/2014/london-by-water/