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Cerro Torre, Las Glaciares Park, Argentina |
Our friend Owen Floody did a trekking and photo tour
of Patagonia in Chile and Argentina this spring. Owen recently retired from a
career of teaching and research at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania. He has
always been an avid photographer and in his retirement has taken several trips
that allow him to pursue his passion. Here is a short reflection on his Patagonia
trip and some of his excellent photographs.
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Andean Condor |
I spent the first half of March in Patagonia, on a 14-day
trek run by
Mountain Travel Sobek which included
Torres del Paine National Park
(4 days),
Perito Moreno Glacier (1 day), and
Los Glaciares National Park (3
days).
The other days were spent assembling in Punta Arenas (1 day), sightseeing in
Buenos Aires (between 1 and 2 days) or traveling from one place to another. Most of the folks in my group arrived a day before me and did visit a penguin
colony near Punta Arenas. During the first half of the trip,
we were in southern Chile, having met and begun our travels in Punta
Arenas.
Later, we moved into Argentina,
ultimately beginning our homeward flights in Buenos Aires.
The group of eleven ranged in age from the mid-40s
to -70s.
But don't be fooled by the
upper age boundary, as nearly all were impressively fit and experienced.
The hikes themselves didn't include huge
elevation gains.
However, some were long
(on the order of 15 miles) and there typically were a lot of ups-and-downs as
we crossed valleys or glacier moraines.
The
weather was good in the sense that we almost always had clear views at our
hikes' destinations.
On the other hand,
we ran into rain several times and frequently were buffeted by high winds, one
of the things that Patagonia is famous for. The hiking was manageable
but strenuous.
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Torres del Paine, taken from a scenic
lake near their base and at the end of our day hike in the Ascension Valley. |
Our major activities in Torres del Paine park included four
hikes--along the Ascension and French valleys and the shores of Lakes
Nordenskjold and Grey (avid trekkers may recognize these as components of the
well-known "W route").
We hoped
to see as many of the famous mountains in this park as possible, including the
Paine peaks (
cumbres), towers (
torres) and horns (
cuernos).
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Cuernos del Paine, as
viewed at sunrise from our lodging. |
The photo above was taken from our lodging, a refuge tucked into the narrow strip of
land between the base of the Cuernos and the shore of Lake Nordenskjold. Incidentally, maps suggest that a more distant view could be achieved elsewhere with little or no hiking. But a significant hike may be required for a
good view of the Torres.
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Chilean Hawk |
We saw
some nice birds in Torres del Paine but the group was moving so fast that it
was nearly impossible to find the time to change lenses, take a shot, and hope
to keep up. We had one nice sighting of condors alongside the road. And our
best wildlife encounter was with a very calm juvenile Chilean hawk that forced
me to change lenses and get the shot despite the fact that we were in the midst
of a hike.
In Torres del Paine we stayed at Hosteria Las Torres (at the south end
of the Ascension valley), Refugio Los Cuernos (right at the foot of the cuernos),
and Refugio Paine Grande (at the northwest end of Lake Pehoe), all of which I
think are pretty standard places for folks hiking the W route.
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Glacier overview |
Our visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier was brief but
pleasant. All of us viewed one face of
the glacier by boat and spent up to several hours taking in other views of it
from a wonderful system of metal walkways where the views were spectacular. Optional
tours, including glacier walks, were available, but strangely only to those under
sixty, excluding me.
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Glacier calving |
It never hurts to be lucky when traveling, and we were in
the right places at the right times to see two instances of glacier calving,
with roughly seven-story slabs of ice tumbling down to cause an initial
explosion of water followed by a long succession of large waves.
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El Chalten, Los Glaciares Park, Argentina |
The last phase of our tour used the town of El Chaltén,
within Los Glaciares Park in Argentina, as a base. As you approach this town,
there is little doubt as to why you're there. Our three hikes all were
geared toward providing views of the most famous peaks in this park, Fitzroy
and Cerro Torre.
This trip was a good one, to what for me was a new part of
the world. It impressed upon me both the
rigors and rewards of hiking in windy, changeable, Patagonia. Though we hiked a lot, we left many trails
untouched and possibly demanding exploration on some future trip. More generally, though, I was impressed by
all of the wonderful sights packed into southern South America, and will be on
the lookout for treks, cruises, and other trips that will permit me to explore
more of them.