Monday, November 25, 2024

BICYCLE TRIP to the WISCONSIN DELLS, 1942: Discovering My Parents’ Past

Postcards of Devils Lake State Park, Wisconsin, 1942.

Still going strong, Biked 40 miles yesterday and stayed at Okee last night on the Wisconsin River. Got to Devils Lake this morning and we are about to go hiking now. We’re staying at Ski-Hi Farm tonight and go to the Dells tomorrow. We’ll be back in Madison Sat. night and back to Kenosha Sun night. (Postcard from my father, Les Scheaffer to his parents in Kenosha, Wisconsin, August 1942.)

Kay and Les Scheaffer, about 1940.

In August of 1942, my parents, Les and Kay Scheaffer, than graduate students in the School of Social Work at the University of Pittsburgh, had several weeks of vacation at the end of the summer before classes began. (I was not yet born.) After visiting family in Chicago and Kenosha, Wisconsin, they took a bus to Madison to begin a four day cycling trip to the Wisconsin Dells.

Recently, in going through a box of old photos and mementos, I found their souvenirs of that trip—a map of Wisconsin, a booklet about the Dells of the Wisconsin River, a brochure and ticket stubs from the newly discovered Cave of the Mounds, their American Youth Hostel documents, postcards sent home with their reports of the trip, and a letter from Grace Sevringhams, a Youth Hostel representative in Madison with information about renting bicycles and planning the trip.

American Youth Hostel passes.

Traveling by bicycle and staying in Youth Hostels was the perfect budget vacation for my student parents. According to the Youth Hostel passbook, the overnight fee was 25 cents per person plus a fuel charge of 5 cents in summer and 10 cents in winter. There were also certain rules for behavior-- including no drinking or smoking and lights out by 10 pm. Hostels were managed by a house mother or house father, who signed the passbook at the end of each stay. My parents’ stayed four nights in hostels—in Madison, Blue Mounds, Okee, and Devils Lake—following an itinerary suggested by Grace Sevringhams in her letter.

She wrote: (1) Madison Hostel (2) Blue Mounds Cave of the Mounds, the Little Norway village with antiques, crafts products, etc. from Norway, and the Mounds Park with its spring water swimming pool, etc. The hostel is a mile from there, and the trail from Madison marked with white triangles. Tents by a spring-fed brook, or quarters in a stone, pine-paneled hostel await you. (The Madison committee rented this from a U.W. prof.) Wild and lovely. (3) Winfield Scott Hostel at Okee to climb Gibraltar Rock, row and fish on lake Wis, and visit with a dear house mother. (4)Cross by ferry and go to Devils Lake writing ahead to our discontinued hostel.  Mrs. Arthur  Bassett, Ski-Hi Farm, usually takes in hostelers who come by. (5) At Lake Deltib there are all sorts of tourist cabins, or at the Dells. Or write last year’s house mother and ask if she would take you in!

On the back of the letter, in my father’s handwriting, are notes of the expenses of one day—including 3 cents for postcards and 3 cents for stamps. A bottle of pop (soda) was 5 cents. Hotdogs, 20 cents. (All his life my father was an inveterate list maker and log keeper.)

Cave of the Mounds brochure.

After a night in Madison, their first stop on the trip was Cave of the Mounds, where they took a tour. Discovered in 1939, the cave consists of eight subterranean rooms filled with crystal wonders. Tickets were 44 cents. (40 cents plus 4 cents tax.) I remember visiting the cave fifteen years later on a family trip and learning how to distinguish a stalactite from a stalagmite. The stalactite must hang on “tight” from the ceiling, whereas the “mighty” stalagmite grows up from the floor of the cave.

Ticket stub for visit to Cave of the Mounds.

From Blue Mounds my parents rode to Okee.

We’re just starting out exploring here after lunch by the lakeside. Have had very nice places to stay- Rode 42 mi yesterday from Blue Mounds to Okee – My big sitter comes in handy. Les is saddle sore but I am not, yet! Good weather for biking but foggy today, though the sun is trying to come thru – Go to Dells tomorrow. (Postcard from my mother, Kay Scheaffer, to her parents in Chicago, August 1942.)

Note that my parents don’t agree on how far they rode. My father’s postcard (above) says the trip was 40 miles, whereas my mother’s says 42 miles--which goes to show that primary source material cannot always be relied upon for accuracy!

After spending the night in Okee, they went to Devils Lake State Park in Baraboo. On their fourth day they arrived at the Wisconsin Dells. My father’s expense list includes $3.65 for a boat trip—by far the most expensive item on the list. I’m guessing that this was a splurge, but the best way to appreciate the amazing rock formations along the cliffs filled with imaginative names like Alligator’s Head, Demon’s Anvil, Hornet’s Nest, Toadstool, Witch’s Gulch. Another item on the expense list is film—32 cents. Unfortunately, I have not found any photos they took on the trip. But they did buy a booklet filled with photos and information about the Dells, which they saved.  

Dells of the Wisconsin River booklet

The booklet about the Dells begins: The Wisconsin River in the south-central part of the state wears its way for seven and one-fifth miles through sandstone. Here the stream flows in a narrow and deep channel between steep rock walls. This water-worn canyon of fantastic rock formations is the Wisconsin Dells. Winnebago Indians named this place Neeh-a-ke-coonah-er-ah “where the rocks strike together.” Later, French trappers called it the Dalles, meaning flagstones in correct French, but in the Canadian-French of the voyageurs “a swift stream of water running between high banks.”

Postcards home. 

On their way back to Madison from the Dells, my parents stopped in Baraboo, Wisconsin, to mail their postcards home. The green one cent stamp pictures the Statue of Liberty and the words “Industry and Agriculture for Defense.” The postmark is dated August 29, 1942, 1 PM.  Although sent to family, the cards were apparently returned to them to keep with the mementos of their trip.

I remember my parents talking about their bicycle trip to the Dells when I was growing up. It sounded very exciting, but it was hard for me to imagine my parents as young people. Now, as I read their postcards and look at their souvenirs, I almost feel as if I were there too.

Dells of the Wisconsin River booklet, Pages 18-19


Monday, November 18, 2024

WHEAT PASTE MURALS CELEBRATE LOCAL HISTORY, Grinnell, Iowa

Wheat Paste Mural, Grinnell, Iowa. Edith Renfrow and her Three Sisters, 1941. L-R: Evanel, Edith, Alice, Helen .

On a beautiful fall day, September 28, 2024, Grinnell College and the town of Grinnell, Iowa, celebrated the dedication of a new dormitory/community center, Renfrow Hall, named after Edith Renfrow Smith, who grew up in the town of Grinnell and, in 1937, was the first Black woman to graduate from Grinnell College.

Edith in cap and gown. Grinnell College graduate, 1937.

Posted around town are large wheat paste murals depicting Edith's early life and scenes from that period in the town's history. The murals, created by Iowa artist Isaac Campbell from historic photos, enlarged and printed on rolls of blueprint paper, were fastened to buildings with wheat paste. Volunteers were recruited to cut around the edges of the figures to make them into silhouettes. The murals will last about a year.

Bicyclists travel a rural road near Grinnell, ca 1990. 

Past and present become linked as one views the murals. The ten murals are found throughout the Grinnell community. We enjoyed discovering them as we did a walking tour of the downtown area. 

Gluing the photo to the wall.

We watched as the final photo installation took place on the front of the First Interstate bank building on Broad Street directly across from Renfrow Hall on the day before its dedication. The enormous size of the image required a machine to lift the artist and an assistant to the top of the wall. Working from top to bottom they pasted the paper to the wall, then coated it with more wheat paste to protect it from the weather. The photo depicts Edith and her sisters when they posed in front of the family house on First Avenue for a group photo on a trip to Grinnell in 1941. (See first photo for the complete image.)

Edith, two years old. Grinnell Arts Center building.

Other photos of Edith can be found on the Grinnell Arts Center building. Next to the front door she is wearing a cap and gown from her college graduation. Around the corner is a picture of her when she was two, wearing a big bow in her hair. (When Edith was growing up, the building was the town library.)

Anna Craig and her son William Goode, 1915.

Most of the murals are in the historic center of town. Photos were selected to show various aspects of town life during the time Edith was growing up. (After her graduation from Grinnell College she moved to Chicago, where she has lived ever since. But she has always considered Grinnell home.)

The business community is represented with a portrait of Edith’s Aunt, Anna Craig, who operated a ladies beauty shop from the late 1800s to the 1920s.

Spaulding cars were manufactured in Grinnell from 1910 to 1929.

Manufacturing in Grinnell is represented by a picture of a Spaulding car, pasted appropriately on the wall of a contemporary carwash business. 
Grinnell High School student Philip Palmer and friends pose with his sousaphone, 1937.

Music has always been part of a Grinnell High School education. This mural, on the side of historic building on Fourth Avenue, depicts a group of high school musicians.

These are just some of the murals in Grinnell. A map of the location of the ten murals can be found HERE

For more about Edith Renfrow Smith's visit to Grinnell for the Renfrow Hall dedication and the celebration of her family and Black history in the community, see my post on October  7, 2024.

Monday, November 11, 2024

SPRING FLOWERS at THE BURREN, COUNTY CLARE, IRELAND: Guest Post by Marianne Wallace

Flowers blooming in Burren National Park, Ireland.

Many thanks to my friend Marianne Wallace, for sharing her beautiful photos of spring wildflowers in Burren National Park, taken on her trip to Ireland earlier this year. 

Ferns poking up among the rocks of the Burren.

My favorite place in Ireland is The Burren in County Clare, a 2-hour drive west of Dublin. It is a unique place of exposed rocky pavement--its name means “rocky place”. Deep fissures in the rocks support microclimates where ferns and orchids flourish. 

Drystone wall. Trail head to Parknabinnia.

Parknabinnia.

On a recent visit, after my usual stop to climb through the drystone wall and check out Parknabinnia, a Paleolithic tomb, I lingered and took photos of the many tiny wildflowers growing among the surface grassy clumps at the site. 











It’s amazing they survive the grazing of the ubiquitous cows and sheep.
 



For more about Burren National Park, check out Marianne’s earlier post at The Intrepid Tourist about her visit there in May 2013.

The Burren, County Clare, Ireland.


Monday, November 4, 2024

TOWERING TREES in the LADY BIRD JOHNSON GROVE, Redwood National Park, California

Redwood trees in the Lady Bird Johnson Grove of Redwood National Park, California.

I've been to a lot of our country's national parks, but this was my first time in Redwood National and State Parks in Humboldt County in northern California. Established in 1968, the 130,000 acres of forests, rivers, prairies and coastline that make up the park stretch from the small town of Orick to Crescent City near the Oregon border. Nearly a third of the parkland is old-growth redwood forests. On my recent visit in October to Humboldt County for an author festival, I did an author presentation at the school in Orick. 


Once a community of thriving lumber mills, the town's population shrunk after the establishment of the national park and the closing of the lumber mills. Only a few students now attend the school. On the afternoon of my visit, more elk were on the playground than students!

Elk on the Orick Elementary School playground.

It was a beautiful fall day, and after my visit with the students my companion and I had time for a short detour into the national park before returning to Eureka. Just beyond the town of Orick we found the turnoff from Highway 101 with a sign to Lady Bird Johnson Grove. The narrow road climbed out of the valley into the forest and along a ridge. After a short distance we came to a parking lot surrounded by towering redwoods and Douglas firs. An information board at the trailhead included a map and description of the park’s founding:


Lady Bird Johnson came to this site on November 25, 1968 to help dedicate Redwood National Park. She returned on August 27, 1969 to be honored by President Richard Nixon with this grove of trees named in her honor, recognizing Lady Bird’s devoted service to the cause of preserving and enhancing America’s natural beauty for the enjoyment of all people.

Indigenous people of the North Coast region have made the redwood forests and associated ecosystems their home since time immemorial

We followed the path and crossed the bridge into the grove. Looking up, giant redwoods reached to the sky, dwarfing the people below. It is awe inspiring.

Redwood trees can live up to 2000 years and often reach the age of 600 years.

Redwoods are the tallest trees in North America, reaching heights of up to 367 feet. Underneath, on the forest floor, grow an abundance of shrubs, ferns, wildflowers, mushrooms.
The park is also home to a wide variety of wildlife--birds, fish, marine mammals, land mammals and more. Elk graze in the valleys. Cliffs along the coast are nesting sites for thousands of seabirds. In 2022, California condors were released in the park, expanding the current range of these endangered birds that once lived up and down the Pacific Coast.
Redwoods National Park surrounds and encompasses three previously established California State Parks--Prairie Creek, Del Norte, and Jedidiah Smith--expanding protection for the trees and accompanying ecosystems. The parklands are managed cooperatively. The Redwoods National and State Parks have been designated a World Heritage Site and part of the California Coast Ranges Biosphere Preserve. I wish I had had more time to spend there. I will have to go back someday.
 

Roosevelt Elk. Only male elk have antlers.