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Bicycle vendor, Hanoi, Vietnam |
My friend and fellow children's book writer Gretchen
Woelfle recently returned from an exciting 18 day trip to Vietnam. Here
is the second of three installments about her trip. Note: Although Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976 at the end of
the Vietnam War, it is still commonly referred to as Saigon.
My
cycling tour of Vietnam [see post for 4/4/16] included free days in several cities. I arrived early and stayed a
few extra days to see a bit more of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) and Hanoi.
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Saigon traffic--what pedestrians face |
Saigon
My
first impression of Saigon was of a swarm of wasps furiously
buzzing and zipping through the streets.
For wasps, read scooters and motorbikes.
Just as wasps would, these buzzers ignored all traffic conventions –
traffic lights, stop signs, even traffic lanes.
Crosswalks were worse than useless, for they gave you a false sense of
security. The only way to cross the street was walk purposefully across without
stopping, letting the wasps zip around you. By the end of the trip I was
striding forth almost confidently.
Safely
landing on the sidewalks we discovered that they are not walkways, but parking
lots for aforesaid scooters and motorbikes, so we often ended up walking (carefully)
in the road. Sidewalks were also home to vendors of all sorts, making walking
even more difficult.
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Street vendor making a call on the job |
Maps,
even an iPhone GPS didn’t prevent us from getting hopelessly lost. Trying to
walk from the Fine Arts Museum to our hotel in the humid heat, and passing the
same roundabout not once, but twice, we finally gave up, and jumped in a cab. The
driver headed in the opposite direction from where we had been walking.
On
Saturday night one of the wide boulevards (lined with upmarket stores) was closed to
traffic and filled with crowds of all ages.
Musicians set up here and there, performing hip hop, pop, karaoke,
and traditional Vietnamese music. At the end of the long avenue a bronze Uncle
Ho stood overlooking the whole scene.
What on earth was he thinking?
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Guardian dragons at a Hoi An temple |
Hoi An
Midway
through our cycling trip, we had a free day in Hoi An. This beautiful UNESCO World
Heritage Site contains many old buildings that reflect its 500-year-old history
as an international trading port. Both sides agreed not to bomb Hoi An during
the war. Museums, temples, and workshops displaying fine crafts (beyond the usual
tourist tat,) kept us walking and shopping all day long.
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Tea set for sale in Hoi an |
Hanoi
We
reached Hanoi via a twelve-hour overnight train from Hue: 5 pm to 5 am. (I
actually slept better than I thought I would.) First thing to notice – many
more cars than in Saigon. Crossing the streets required even more courage,
dodging cars and buses, as well as motorbikes.
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Saturday night in Hanoi |
We
stayed in the Old Quarter, a maze of narrow streets with small shops and street
vendors selling all sorts of produce and street food, interspersed with tourist
shops. Our guide told us that northerners are much more conservative than southerners,
and Hanoi youth who want unconventional partners move to Saigon. But on
Saturday night we saw restaurants and clubs full of hip young people, spilling
out onto the streets and alleys.
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Dragon dancers, Hanoi |
The
Museum of Ethnology offers a view of another Vietnam: the dozens of tribal
peoples who live in remote rural areas. Clothing, musical instruments, tools,
and other artifacts are displayed inside the museum. Their traditional houses
and compounds are recreated on the grounds. A performance of water puppets, with
music and narration, gave a glimpse of a charming folk art performed primarily
for tourists. Groups of schoolchildren bypassed it altogether.
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Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi |
Sunday
dawned foggy and full of atmosphere: a perfect day to stroll around Hoan Kiem
Lake. Families joined us in enjoying the buskers and artists plying their
trades. A spring equinox festival with raucous colorful dragon dancers filled a
park near the lake. We found a delicious retro café in the French Quarter to
savor our last day in Vietnam.
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Park cleaner at Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi |
Having
filled my suitcases to bursting with various arts, crafts, and silk scarves
(all remarkably cheap,) I gave myself one last indulgence at our hotel: a three
hour body scrub, massage, and facial, all (including tip) for $47.
I
chose to go to Vietnam, rather than another Asian country, because of the war
that loomed so large in the lives of my generation. Next week I’ll cover some of the remnants of
the war I saw on my journey.
Bibliography
Pham, Andrew, Catfish and Mandala. NY, FSG: 1999. Vietnamese-American who fled as
a child, returns to cycle through Vietnam in his 20s, with flashbacks to his
history. Excellent book.
Dinh, Linh, Love Like Hate. NY, Seven Stories Press: 2010. Multi-generation
family novel, from 1960s to the present.
Good look at life in postwar Saigon.