BOLIVIA: Unfinished Business--Return Trip by Guest Poster Owen Floody

Flamingos, Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

With many thanks to our friend Owen Floody for another exceptional contribution to The Intrepid Tourist. He writes:

Regular readers of this blog may recall my description of a June 2024 trip that surveyed the Bolivian highlands. That was a great trip. One reflection of this was that it left me wanting more, of exhibits that deserved more time than available in June and of locations or populations that deserve to be seen in more than one season.

My follow-up trip was relatively brief, running from 2/21/25 to 3/3/25.  All arrangements were made through Lucia Berrios, of Sendas Altas in La Paz. She was terrific. My major stops included La Paz, the Salar de Uyuni, the Desierto de Siloli, and Laguna Colorada.  Anyone interested in duplicating any part of this trip should be aware that the altitudes of these sites range between 12,000 and 14,600 feet.  some shortness of breath and some colder weather than the month of the year might predict.

Mask at the Museo Nacional de Etnografia y Folkore, La Paz, Bolivia.

My major goal in revisiting La Paz was to spend more time in the excellent Museo Nacional de Etnografia y Folklore (Musef).  

Mask.

This museum has outstanding displays of fabrics characteristic of Bolivia’s different regions and of a great variety of ritualistic masks such as appear in carnivals, festivals and other religious ceremonies.  I had great fun photographing many more of the latter than I can share here.

Sunset, Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is a huge (4,100 sq mi) salt flat. It is mesmerizing at any time, but its character changes entirely across the seasons.  In the dry season (as I saw it in June), it is a seemingly endless flat expanse of brilliantly white salt. How such a uniform and seemingly impoverished landscape can be so attractive I don’t know, but you will have to consult the photos from my earlier column if you’re in doubt.

Salar de Uyuni.

In any case, I think that it may be in the wet season that the Salar shines most brightly.  Now, much or all of it is transformed into a huge shallow lake.  This has the potential to perfectly reflect the sky during sunrises, blue-sky afternoons, sunsets, and, perhaps especially, at night.  My efforts to capture the Milky Way were limited by rookie mistakes plus higher winds and more low clouds than expected.  Even so, this left so many wonderful scenes that I enjoyed myself far too much for complaint.

Flamingos.

My third major goal for this trip was to observe and photograph the flamingos at Laguna Colorada as they gathered in huge numbers for breeding.  There should be three species present (Andean, Chilean, James) but the second of these was hiding from me.  

Flamingos.

Nevertheless, it was great fun trying to capture these striking birds as they interacted in dense groups or celebrated their grace in flight, especially low over the striking waters of the Laguna.

Desert landscape, Bolivia.

Finally, effort of the sort that I expended (it’s just so hard taking all these photos!) deserves some reward and my unexpected bonus took the form of the succession of jaw-dropping desert landscapes that we passed through on our return from the Laguna Colorada to Uyuni.  I’m sure that my guide and driver were grateful that I let them make any progress at all between desperate pleas for “just one more shot.”  Is that what they meant as they cried “No mas. No mas."?

THE RIVERFRONT CAROUSEL IN SALEM, OREGON Guest Post by Caroline Hatton

The Riverfront Carousel, Salem, Oregon.

My friend Caroline Hatton, a children’s book writer and frequent contributor to this blog, took these photos in Salem, Oregon, in August 2024 when she met our friend Sara Kras, also a children’s book writer. Together they visited Salem’s Riverfront Carousel, a community project that draws thousands of visitors each year. Here is the story of Caroline and Sara’s visit to the carousel. (Although Caroline and I share the same first name, she pronounces hers with the "i" like "ee", whereas I pronounce mine with the "i" as a "y".) 

Once upon  a January (the year was 1998), Caroline Arnold taught a UCLA Extension children’s writing course focused on her forte, nonfiction. I signed up for it, and so did a dozen others including a Sara Louise (soon to be married and become Sara Louise Kras). Sara and I became writing buddies. We started helping each other by swapping critiques of works-in-progress.

Caroline Hatton riding Leia and Sara Kras riding Django near Los Angeles in January 2017. Photo by Josh the guide.

A few years later, Sara proposed that she and I meet in January to go on a horseback ride, followed by a brown bag picnic lunch and mutual critique. Our New Year riding-and-writing day became an annual celebration.

By 2024, Sara and I had relocated from the Los Angeles area to Arizona and Oregon, respectively. Meeting in January was no longer practical. But when Sara happened to be in Oregon in August, we jumped at the chance to enjoy a riding-and-writing day after all.

Sara Kras riding Jazz the Zebra. 

Salem was a good place to meet, so I knew where two children’s writers would love to go on a wild ride: indoor, sheltered from any weather, at Salem’s Riverfront Carousel! We didn’t climb in the saddle until after we had carefully selected our mounts.

Caroline Hatton riding Francis the mule.

After an exhilarating cavalcade, we wandered around the carousel’s indoor space, looking at displays about its history. It all began in 1996 when Salem resident Hazel Patton visited Missoula, Montana, where she saw an old-world-style carousel built in the U.S. Moved by how that project had united the community, she came home determined to make the same thing happen in Salem. She infected four more people with her vision and enthusiasm. Next, Sandy and Dave Walker signed up as the project’s artistic leaders.

In only four and a half years, 160 volunteer artisans donated over 80,000 hours carving, sanding, and painting the horses. Architects, engineers, builders, lawyers, business people, accountants, writers, photographers, illustrators and other community members worked together to manage the project and raise $2.1M.

The full-size pattern for Ronnie the Rabbit.

Before designing each animal, Sandy Walker met with its sponsors to understand their vision of its style or theme. What made its personality unique? Would it stand, prance, or jump? Sandy sketched it on an 11” x 14” sheet of paper, which was enlarged to full size.

The rough-cut body and hat of Ronnie the Rabbit in August 2024.

Two-inch thick basswood boards from linden trees were glued together. The full-size pattern was used to rough-cut the animal’s head, body, legs and tail in separate pieces. Dave Walker, the carousel’s master carver, led experienced artisans and trained novice volunteers, who chipped the wood away to begin revealing the animal.

Pegasus was ready to get his wings in August 2024.

They shaped body parts using smaller knives and files, and carved the fine details with specialized tools. Team members glued body parts together, then smoothed the seams. Sanding each creature by hand, using sandpaper and tools of decreasing grit or size, took about 60 hours. After roughly 700 hours to carve each creature, painting began with three coats of primer and one coat of base paint, and took about 200 hours to complete. With up to six coats of clear polyurethane varnish, it’s no wonder the animals look so shiny! Of 42 horses and two wagons, 32 plus two foals ride the carousel at a time.

After Sara and I browsed around the gift shop, the nice lady behind the counter offered to show us the “back room.” That’s where I took the photos of works currently in progress.

The Willamette River in Riverfront Park, Salem, Oregon.

When Sara and I went back outside, we strolled along the Willamette River in the lovely Riverfront Park and sat on a bench to chat. For lunch, we picked the gourmet Wild Pear Restaurant. based on its eclectic menu. The few indoor tables were full, but it was a nice day to sit at a table on the sidewalk. Sara loved the lobster and  shrimp melt and I, the turkey and dill havarti sandwich on focaccia. We both took away half for dinner. But before dinner, I spent a moment selecting riding photos to share with Sara, capturing her feedback on my writing, and musing about possibilities for our next riding-and-writing day.

SOUTHWEST ROAD TRIP, Part 3. Chaco Canyon, Petrified Forest, Painted Desert, Montezuma's Castle : Guest Post by Susan Kean

Chaco Canyon, New Mexico.

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George love to travel and recently did a driving trip from Southern California to Arizona, New Mexico and the Four Corners area of Colorado and Utah. I thank her for sharing her report and wonderful photos with The Intrepid Tourist. Her post appears in three parts.

Petrified Forest National Monument, Arizona.

The next part of our adventure took us to the Chaco Culture National Cultural Park and then to somewhere I’ve always wanted to go… the Petrified Forest.

Chaco Canyon. Incredible stonework....over 1000 years old.

Chaco is another world heritage site. Center for Puebloans from 850-1200. It is thought to have been a religious center where people paid to come.

Petrified logs.

The petrified forest quartz logs were formed 225 million years ago!

La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona.

Our last night we spent at the most amazing hotel…La Posada in Winslow, Arizona, on both the Santa Fe railroad and Route 66. Built in 1929, it has recently been beautifully restored. It is oozing with history!

Extensive gift shop at La Posada.

This is what I call blueberry pancakes. Fluffy and delicious!

La Posada is one of the best hotels I've every stayed at! We enjoyed an incredible dinner and breakfast at the adjacent restaurant.

Montezuma's Castle, Arizona. 

We made one stop on our way home…also one of my favorite places. Montezuma’s Castle… as they told us…not a castle and nothing to do with Montezuma! It is a most amazing five story structure built in a cliff around 1200 CE. They suggest that perhaps a group of Sinagua people lived there. They reached it with ladders… all their food and everything else was brought in that way. Apparently the old people were carried on their backs! Lots of unanswered questions about living like that!

Snow began falling on Hwy 17 on our way to Phoenix. We were leaving just in time! After all, it was January!

Read Part 1 (3/3/25) and Part 2 (3/10/25) at this blog for more of Susan's Southwest Road Trip.

SOUTHWEST ROAD TRIP, Part 2, New Mexico and Four Corners: Guest Post by Susan Kean

Four Corners Monument, where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah meet.

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George love to travel and recently did a driving trip from Southern California to Arizona, New Mexico and the Four Corners area of Colorado and Utah. I thank her for sharing her report and wonderful photos with The Intrepid Tourist. Her post appears in three parts. 

San Juan Inn and Trading Post.

Next stage of our trip took us along Code Talker’s Highway. This is named in memory of the Native Americans who are credited with helping the US military win major battles during WWI and II. They used their little known indigenous languages to help with secret communications. 

Ice floating down the San Juan River, a major tributary of the Colorado River.

We went through Mexican Hat, a small town on the San Juan River named after a precariously balanced rock that looks like a Sombrero. 

Books, books, and more books! Our bearded host at our B&B in Farmington.

Then on to the Four Corners Monument in the Navajo Tribal Park and Farmington, where we stayed two nights at a very rustic B&B! It was an Adobe house they had built. He was very impressed when he heard I lived in an adobe house too. Their house had huge wooden beams, all hand done, holding up the second floor. He loved to talk while his wife made a delicious breakfast.

Aztec Ruins National Monument, New Mexico. Part reconstructed kiva...worship center.

The next part of our trip took us to the Aztec Ruins National Monument… a world Heritage site. Nothing to do with Aztecs. We learned that this dwelling was occupied from 1050 to 1300 with people who had come from Mesa Verde. No one quite knows why these Puebloans left… suggestions are because of drought. It is an extraordinary place. 

Rooms along the north wall..

In one spot one can see the original wood ceiling. It is protected by a second story that still stands. The local indigenous people say it has not been deserted. All the spirits of the folks who lived there remain. Certainly one can feel their presence. Next stop was the Salmon Ruins National Historic Site in Farmington, New Mexico. A homesteader, Peter Salmon protected these ruins from vandals and preserved the artifacts that were found at the site.

The green line has something to do with water.

Next week: Part 3.

SOUTHWEST ROAD TRIP, Part 1, Arizona: Guest Post by Susan Kean

Hotel Monte Vista, Flagstaff, AZ, where we stayed.

My friend Susan Kean and her partner George love to travel and recently did a driving trip from Southern California to Arizona, New Mexico and the Four Corners area of Colorado and Utah. I thank her for sharing her report and wonderful photos with The Intrepid Tourist. Her post will appear in three parts.

Approaching Sedona, Arizona.

The first stop on our adventure of exploring Arizona and New Mexico was Flagstaff. I was expecting a large town like Phoenix! What an interesting place! We stayed one night in a funky hotel, the Hotel Monte Vista. 

Museum inside the old railway station in Flagstaff.

After going to the Visitor’s Center in the old Railway Station and paying our respects to Route 66 we spent a couple of hours at the Museum of Northern Arizona before continuing to the View Hotel in the NavajoTribal Park in Monument Valley. 

Northern Arizona Museum in Flagstaff. Pottery found in adobe dwellings.

View Hotel, Navajo Tribal Park in Monument Valley.

What a glorious place! I’m so glad we chose to stay two nights. 

Buttes. The butte farthest to the left is called the elephant.

We had time to wrap ourselves in the glorious desert scenery and feeling of the presence of an Almighty creator. We are trying to learn as much as possible about our country’s native peoples. 

Buttes.

The sun literally popped up over the horizon.

Part 2 will post next week.

WARM SPRINGS FISH HATCHERY, Geyserville, CA: Giving Young Salmon and Steelhead Trout a Head Start

Young steelhead trout at Warm Spring Fish Hatchery.

On a sunny day in late December, I went with my family on a day trip from Oakland to visit the Warm Springs Hatchery, about a ninety-minute drive north of the Bay Area, near Healdsburg. 

Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley.

After leaving the 101 Freeway we made our way along the Dry Creek Valley road past acres of vineyards and small farms until we came to the sign for the Lake Sonoma State Park and Visitor Center.

Visitor Center, Warm Springs Fish Hatchery, also known as the Don Claussen Fish Hatchery.

Every year in late fall, steelhead trout and Coho Salmon begin to arrive at the Warm Springs Fish Hatchery, located below the Sonoma Lake dam in the foothills near Geyserville, California. There the fish are counted and measured and sorted. Some are kept for spawning at the hatchery--the fertilized eggs incubated until they hatch and then raised until the young fish are big enough to release.

Life-size cloth models of steelhead trout at the Visitor Center.

We had arranged to meet docent Linda Clapp at the Visitor Center for a personal tour of the hatchery. (The Visitor Center is open every day and the grounds open to the public. You don’t need an appointment.) Linda, had been the park ranger in charge of education for many years, is now retired, and continues to work at the hatchery as a volunteer. She was a fount of information.

Sonoma Lake Dam. The earthen dam was built in 1983 by the Army Corps of Engineers to control flooding of the Dry Creek Valley.

After a brief introduction, Linda took us to an overlook at the base of the Sonoma Lake dam. At the bottom of the dam water rushes out into Dry Creek and eventually reaches the Pacific Ocean. Young steelhead trout and Coho Salmon raised at the hatchery are released in the creek. They follow the creek to the ocean, spend several years at sea, and then return to mate and lay eggs. (They use their sense of smell to find their way home.)

Fish returning to spawn are guided toward a tunnel on the left side of the dam that leads to a fish ladder and channel into the hatchery. We looked over the railing above the fish ladder hoping to see some leaping fish, but didn’t spot any. At the top of the fish ladder is a quiet pond where the fish can rest before continuing to the hatchery. 

Sorting fish in the spawning area.

Fish returning to the hatchery are kept in holding pens before the daily counting. We had timed our visit so that we could watch (from above) hatchery workers processing the fish--identifying each fish by its species, sex, age, and size. At the same time a small sample was taken from each fish for genetic monitoring. While one worker handled the fish, another recorded the data.

Steelhead trout being transferred to a truck for release.

Coho Salmon.

Our next stop was outside, to view the long tanks holding thousands of young fish from the previous year’s spawning. After hatching, the fish stay at the hatchery for about a year before being transferred to the wild. Growing about a half an inch a month, they are about six inches long when they are released. Fencing around the raceways prevents birds and other natural predators from helping themselves to the fish. We spotted egrets, green herons and other birds in the park around the hatchery.

9 month old steelhead trout in aquarium at Visitor Center.

At the end of our tour we explored the excellent Visitor Center, filled with displays about the fish and their part of the natural environment.

View of Lake Sonoma.

Our final excursion was a one mile drive up the road to the Sonoma Lake overlook where we got a spectacular view of the lake and surrounding hills. We’ll have to go back another day to try out the various hiking trails.

On our way home to Oakland we stopped for lunch at the Dry Creek General Store where we got delicious freshly made sandwiches, which we ate at a picnic table outside. Above us dozens of hummingbirds flocked around feeders, sipping the sweet juice. It was the perfect ending to an enjoyable and educational day.